Filling old drill holes?

[Still Afloat]

Perhaps JB Weld no longer lists the filler material on the packages. They did a year ago.

Hope I didn’t start this urban legend. If so, country folklore would be a better description. There is no urban in this old boy.

 

[Tin Man]

I’ve used, with great success… west system epoxy mixed with one of their fillers, defending on application. It’s pricey!

OR

Simple and quick…. SS Pan head sheet metal screw with Boat Life polysulfide sealant. I’ve learned on this forum to avoid using silicone on aluminum boats due to corrosion issues.

 

[LDUBS]

Perhaps JB Weld no longer lists the filler material on the packages. They did a year ago.

Hope I didn’t start this urban legend. If so, country folklore would be a better description. There is no urban in this old boy.

JB Weld still shows iron powder as an ingredient. The website recommends JB Marineweld for aluminum boat hulls.

You may have initially brought it up and I think I was the first to jump on board! Haha.

 

[Still Afloat]

I’ve used, with great success… west system epoxy mixed with one of their fillers, defending on application. It’s pricey!

OR

Simple and quick…. SS Pan head sheet metal screw with Boat Life polysulfide sealant. I’ve learned on this forum to avoid using silicone on aluminum boats due to corrosion issues.

West Systems does have some nice epoxy. I used quite a bit of it when laying up wings back when I could see well enough to fly RC planes. One thing that a guy learns real quick in that hobby is the use of epoxy fillers. Microballons, chopped fiberglass, carbon fiber and even balsa saw dust.

Adding metal filler to epoxy is basically the same thing. There is no reason why a guy couldn’t mix his own with aluminum oxide or even fine aluminum fillings. The more filler, the easier it is to finish sand, file, etc. but, there is a balance between the filler and epoxy ratio. Too much filler and it looses strength. I’d guess that JB Weld is around 30 to 40% filler.

 

[thill]

JB Weld still shows iron powder as an ingredient. The website recommends JB Marineweld for aluminum boat hulls.

You may have initially brought it up and I think I was the first to jump on board! Haha.

Well, well... I stand corrected!

I have never seen it rust, probably because the epoxy encapsulates it so well, but that being said, JB Marineweld or 3M products should be better for aluminum if not using rivets and metal.

Thanks for the correction, guys. I appreciate it. Sorry for spreading incorrect information.

 

[LDUBS]

Well, well... I stand corrected!

I have never seen it rust, probably because the epoxy encapsulates it so well, but that being said, JB Marineweld or 3M products should be better for aluminum if not using rivets and metal.

Thanks for the correction, guys. I appreciate it. Sorry for spreading incorrect information.

Despite my initial reaction (and comment) about potential problems, I have to admit it has been used on boats extensively and no one has experienced any negatives. That would seem to be the bottom line.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Since seems were discussing epoxies and JBW now, I'll add that the JB Kwik is crap! It dries quickly, but is not very strong. On the other hand the 5 mins epoxy you can get at Harbor Freight, just like JBW, has never failed me. If you don't have time to wait, I heartily recommend this goo.

 

[Still Afloat]

Well, well... I stand corrected!

I have never seen it rust, probably because the epoxy encapsulates it so well, but that being said, JB Marineweld or 3M products should be better for aluminum if not using rivets and metal.

Thanks for the correction, guys. I appreciate it. Sorry for spreading incorrect information.

As I recall, even the JB Marine is iron based.

 

[kazzer]

Would that Aluminum epoxy be something similar to JB Weld marine epoxy?

https://a.co/d/5RKpAie

Not really. The material comes in a Tootsie roll formation. The stick of it has a central core which is the hardener. Just slice off a piece and then roll it around until the color is even. The difference I see is that this material is thicker, and therefore better for filling holes, it won't slump through. It has a 5-10 minute usable life once mixed.

 

[airshot]

Not really. The material comes in a Tootsie roll formation. The stick of it has a central core which is the hardener. Just slice off a piece and then roll it around until the color is even. The difference I see is that this material is thicker, and therefore better for filling holes, it won't slump through. It has a 5-10 minute usable life once mixed.

The stuff I refered to comes in a tube like JB weld but called liquid aluminum or somthing like that. Has aluminum particles in an epoxy like base.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I gotta wonder if metal particles in the epoxy has any real effect on how well these goops work. Always figured iron in the JBW might make it easier to tap, but that's about it. I'm probably wrong about that too. My gut instinct is the steel in the mix is just to make it look more like real metal.

 

[LDUBS]

I gotta wonder if metal particles in the epoxy has any real effect on how well these goops work. Always figured iron in the JBW might make it easier to tap, but that's about it. I'm probably wrong about that too. My gut instinct is the steel in the mix is just to make it look more like real metal.

That is a good question. I've got to think the metal powder, whatever it is, adds strength by way of reinforcing the goop. I think you are dead bang on that it makes it easier to work.

 

[Still Afloat]

I gotta wonder if metal particles in the epoxy has any real effect on how well these goops work. Always figured iron in the JBW might make it easier to tap, but that's about it. I'm probably wrong about that too. My gut instinct is the steel in the mix is just to make it look more like real metal.

It adds a lot of strength with the proper mix of filler. Think of it as concrete versus grout.

 

[kazzer]

I gotta wonder if metal particles in the epoxy has any real effect on how well these goops work. Always figured iron in the JBW might make it easier to tap, but that's about it. I'm probably wrong about that too. My gut instinct is the steel in the mix is just to make it look more like real metal.

 

[kazzer]

I used to sell Belzona epoxy products. They had numerous 'metals' and they were filled with ceramics, or steel. The steel ones were very machinable and could be used on worn shafts etc. and then turned on a lathe, so the metal in them was for a purpose rather than looks. Many epoxies use a mercaptan hardener and it has a garlic odor to it. This means it set up in about 5 minutes, and it isn't as strong as other systems.

 

[thill]

Not really. The material comes in a Tootsie roll formation. The stick of it has a central core which is the hardener. Just slice off a piece and then roll it around until the color is even. The difference I see is that this material is thicker, and therefore better for filling holes, it won't slump through. It has a 5-10 minute usable life once mixed.

I think you are talking about the JBweld Water Weld epoxy stick. That stuff works great. Very sticky, if you use it quickly, and it's strong. I've fixed a lot of things with that stuff. I keep one hanging on the pegboard in my shop, right next to the regular JBweld tubes.

 

[Still Afloat]

I have an older 1960s V-hull aluminum boat. I bought it used to use on a pond. There are lots of drill holes from previously mounting things. I will be repainting soon. Is there anything I can fill these with that looks good vs just silicone?

Sorry BoneDigger, I totally derailed your thread. Easy to do around here.

Have you found a solution for the holes?

 

[slayin67]

I've run dowel rod through old transom holes, and then fiberglass resin. When it hardens, sand it down, prime and paint. It worked really welll.