14ft creastliner v hull skiff

Good idea Rich, thanks! Always helpful!

- my personal thoughts on flush decks -

I see them all the time and a thought always comes to mind,
what if you drop something and it rolls off the deck into the water.
what if you loose your footing and fall over the edge, even a 1" rail
could save you from taking a dip.
Things like that to put on your drawing board when it comes time to redo the deck.
happy and safe boating in the New Year !!!

on a very similar hull, i had a deck as you described. I transitioned from your exact set up now, to what you are inquiring about. I didn't notice much difference at all in stability. both times, it was a very stable platform given what you're working with.

derekdiruz said:

on a very similar hull, i had a deck as you described. I transitioned from your exact set up now, to what you are inquiring about. I didn't notice much difference at all in stability. both times, it was a very stable platform given what you're working with.

Click to expand...

Yes... Stability, because raising that deck gives me extra storage underneath, and makes mounting my trolling motor much much easier

I have a 16' just like yours.I like a deep platform,myself.I tried it flush and didn't feel safe. I made a flat pad for my TM, because the bow had a curved shape and I didn't want to shim my #80 Terrova,that would put too much torque on the aluminum bow plate.Now I have a nice flat bow pad. Plus I have plenty of storage. I placed three batteries in back,two under the rear seat and one in a box against the port side transom,that one is glued in place and has not moved in two years.I used a high quality epoxy, that I got from a friend in the Air National Guard. He glued it for me, he wore a gas mask, some real strong stuff, I could smell it in my garage for almost a week. This summer he is going to do some work on my trailer,he's an air frame tech for helicopters.He said he could paint it if I like military green/black. :wink: I think I will stick the Royal Blue! The inside needs a couple more coats and that should be good enough.

So... Here's where I'm at...

Decided to cut the casting deck in half and have a larger floor. I did remove the center bench seat, and I will replace the foam and re support the middle of the boat. I did remove the aluminum nose piece and cut a new one from wood. Will glass this and figure how to support the center span... Probably aluminum. Floor will be just shy of 4' x 5'6"

I like it..

Me too... Makes that 14ft seem a lot larger!

So, after a lot of thinking, I've decided to pull everything, start from the ground up. All the foam under the benches is water logged, so they're coming out. I'll do the blue panel insulation down the entire floor bow to stern. I'm going to rebuild the interior just like the tracker v 16 tiller. I love the open floor with useful side panels. I think I'm going to put my electronics and some dry storage on one side, and maybe a small rod locker or open rod storage on the other. Build the deck with access hatches for tackle and my batteries under the front deck. I already have LED strips to light both storage and the deck. Biggest idea I think I want to try is to mount my driver's seat to a cooler and mount that to the rear of the open floor. I also think I'm going to add a tiller extension so I can cruise around standing up like I used to on the cost.

Here's what I want it to look like

Here's where I am as of today


9.9 Johnson w/e start, 30# Minn Kota tiller on transom, 43# motor guide 12v on the front. 2 lowrance elite hdi units

Ha! This is a perfect example of what I want to do with my cooler/seat.

I started my mod back in 2013 and it is not finished due to life getting in the way. I am redo'ing it from scratch this year. My plan is basically the same layout as the Tracker 16 tiller design you are using. I will be watching your build closely.

I looked at some other photos of the Tracker 16 tiller and some are carpet but the photo you posted looks like some kind of hard finish. Any ideas what it is?

edit: On a youtube ad it indicates a vinyl floor. I like it!

I believe that the vinyl flooring is this material, or something similar.

I have it. It isn't soft like carpet, and can be a bit slippery....but it cleans up well.

I like it. richg99

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276202&id=23740

Yeah I don't know if I'm going to carpet or not. My original plan is a deck resurfacer from Lowe's, I work there and can get a gallon of that stuff for $5. It feels nice on the bar feet. Thinking of a couple small spots of anti fatigue meeting also, especially up front at the trolling motor.

It's too cold to do much of anything right now.... Except some of the paint prep. I'm not stripping down to bare aluminum. 90% of the paint is in sound condition. Lots of cracking around the rail. I took a wire brush on my drill and went to work. I figured any paint that can hold up to the brush will be fine to prime and paint over. Seems like I should be able to run over the whole boat in a couple days. Then I'm going to break out the power washer. I'm going to use Rust-Oleum auto primer in a rattle can. Then roll Rust-Oleum smoke gray on the bottom, and gloss white on the top half. All gray interior. Will also get the trailer primed with rusty metal primer and sprayed with krylon rust prevention that I already had.

I've got all this stuff wire wheeled super smooth.... Wouldn't you think that if the wire wheel doesn't take it off it'll be fine to prime and paint?

I don't know the answer about "will the wire brushing be good enough?"...but I agree that it should be.

Also of interest, though, is the tiny metal particles that spin off of the wire wheel. If ANY of them remain, they will rust through your new paint.

When I had Fiberglass sailboats, we used bronze steel wool, instead of regular steel wool, just to avoid the rusting issues. I guess I'd get some tack clothes and really rub down everywhere you wire brushed.

richg99

Thanks Rich, I plan on sitting her on her side and thoroughly TSP and then pressure wash it, I would think that should get any remaining gunk and specks out. There are several holes along the rail I'll need to patch with JB weld. I think this paint is going to look really good. I can't remember seeing an aluminum boat painted these colors. (Smoke gray bottom/gloss white upper)

Rich - speaking of the wire brush.
I purchased a rotary BRASS brush for my angle grinder
only to find out after using it heavily that it is actually
brass PLATED stainless wire - not a solid brass wire.
(but at least it was stainless sub-wire).
the cheaper "brass" rotary wire wheel that goes in a drill
was the same - only it was only brass coated regular wire
that rusted like crazy...... I tossed it.
the real test of what you have is to leave it outside in the
rain for a few days - then you will know for sure.
(nooooooo I didn't forget where I put it - it was a contolled test method) HaHaHa

just read the hype in the fine print on the back of the package.






.

mrdrh99 - after all your abrasive prepping, come back and
feather edge the existing paint with sandpaper to remove the rough edges.
IMO, that is where the new paint will fail first.
then once it starts, it is difficult to control.

Thanks Johnny, will definitely do that, do you agree that what the wire brush won't take off will be fine to prime and paint over? I'm not trying to take any short cuts but I'm also not "looking" for extra stuff to do.... She's a fishing boat, not a Chris Craft