Round II: Quachita 14ft jon

I sold my last mod before the summer started.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7167

I got this boat and rigged it up to get me through the summer. Since I am in the woods most weekends now it is time to start this project. I have an idea of the direction I want to go but all, and i do mean all, suggestion are welcome.

So far I have replaced the hubs/bearings and switch out the 8'' tires for new 12'' tires. last night I took everything out of the boat and ripped out the flooring.

If you will notice in one of the photos I have two screws going through the bottom of the hull. I would appreciate suggestions for replacing these screws before I steel flex the bottom. (Do I need to post this question in a separate post?)

more pics

Those two screws look rusty? Plain steel? Either way I would pull them out and replace them with solid rivets. They will likely come back to haunt you if you don't.

Keep everything in this post - questions and all!

As far as those screws... if you can rivet them fine. But if it were me, if you're going to put a floor back over them, I wouldn't screw with them. Paint the bottom with the steelflex, and I'd even hit that part of the floor with the steelflex too when you flip it back over.

russ010 said:

Keep everything in this post - questions and all!

As far as those screws... if you can rivet them fine. But if it were me, if you're going to put a floor back over them, I wouldn't screw with them. Paint the bottom with the steelflex, and I'd even hit that part of the floor with the steelflex too when you flip it back over.

Click to expand...

I want to replace them so do you think if I choose not to go with solid rivets i could use stainless steel bolt/screws? I am kinda ocd about that kind of stuff.

you can use stainless. Others have done so.

danmyersmn said:

you can use stainless. Others have done so.

Click to expand...

just a quick question, how do you do solid rivets? i have used pop rivets but i thought you had to have an expensive gun to do solid rivets.

Got the boat pulled off of the trailer and the majority of the trailer stripped down for sanding.

Funny thing though, I am glad I didn’t go far after putting on my new tires. I took my fenders off while I replaced the bearings and tires and didn’t even think to put them back on. Well I have a homemade trailer apparently because the bolts that held my fenders on also held my axel on. I picked up the back of the trailer after I pulled the boat off and to my surprise tires stayed on the ground. That was a close one

someone just did a post on here about solid rivets... you just need a small sledge and a regular hammer. That would be the best solution. Bolts hanging on the bottom of your boat will eventually snag something and you don't want that kinda damage to deal with

russ010 said:

someone just did a post on here about solid rivets... you just need a small sledge and a regular hammer. That would be the best solution. Bolts hanging on the bottom of your boat will eventually snag something and you don't want that kinda damage to deal with

Click to expand...

thanks man! yeah i have done my research and decide to go with rivets. I am going to use a air hammer with a rivet driver attachment. it isn't suggested to use on airplanes because it may dent the aluminum. don't think i am too worried about that.

more pics

pics

looks good man... just make sure that you go with some good self-etching primer and you're on your way... that is going ot be a sweet ride!

You mentioned the trailer issue. My father and I had a 16 foot Quachita fiberglass boat on the factory trailer. We did the same thing, took the fenders off, and found the fender boats also held the axle to the trailer. W were not as luck as you; however, we discovered the issue several miles away from the house after we hit a stiff bump and noticed the trailer and boat were tracking one lane over.

So what is going on with the plastic wrap???



Chris

Okielawman28 said:

So what is going on with the plastic wrap???



Chris

Click to expand...

I thought it was crazy too but decided to try it. It is real simple, it keeps the vapors from escaping which keeps the stripper from drying which allows it to penetrate all layers of paint which allows you to scrap it right off. Wow hope you understood that

russ010 said:

looks good man... just make sure that you go with some good self-etching primer and you're on your way... that is going ot be a sweet ride!

Click to expand...

thanks man! i have some pretty cool ideas so be ready to answer some questions. Check out this diamond plate I got for $100, it is 12x3 and is the thickest you can get. I am going to put it in the floor of the boat.

What is a good primer for a trailer? Do I need to prime it? When i redid my other boat i remember a few people stating that the primer on a trailer was really important. Is that true? I dont want to spend a whole lot on the trailer but since i am redoing the boat it would be dumb not to get the rust off and give it a new paint job. The cheaper the better.

here is the screw that i pulled out and the rivet i am going ot replace it with. i couldnt find any larger rivets but i assume that they will fill the holes.

You can use regular ol' Rustoleum primer... I brushed mine on my last trailer and it worked like a champ - and I put it on thick-n-heavy.. I sanded the trailer as best I could with a wire brush to get all the flaking stuff and rust, then wiped it down with acetone and primed.

that rivet you got should expand enough to cover your hole