My First Build - 12' 40" Meyers Jon Boat (updated 5/24/2010)

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Troutman3000
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My First Build - 12' 40" Meyers Jon Boat (updated 5/24/2010)

Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 08:09

Here are the before pictures of my first build. I have gained a wealth of knowledge from this site and plan on making a nice but simple little fishing boat for my wife and I to enjoy.

My plan in this order.

1. Remove the transom

2. Grind all the old silicone and glue reminants of both the inside and outside.

3. Get all the leaky seems welded and all whole patched.

4. Steelflex the bottom to about half way to up the side walls.

5. Steelflex the inside floor.

6. Cut out the middle bench like Bufford did and store batteries and utilities in there.

7. Wire out the trolling motor and running lights.

8. Deck the front level with the benches. I plan on decking past the middle bench to attach to the nearest support rail.

9. Deck the rear bench and area around transom.

10. Apply decking in all the floor areas.

11. Tweak as needed along the way.

Any help is much appreciated. [-o<
Attachments
Pictures 003.jpg
Pictures 001.jpg
boat rear.jpg
Boat Front.jpg
Last edited by Troutman3000 on 24 May 2010, 16:09, edited 5 times in total.

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Troutman3000
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My first Build - 1240 Jon Boat

Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 08:19

Step One is almost completed.

How should i repair these holes? There is one that is really big,should I patch it with a piece of alluminum while I am welding it? Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jason
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Brine
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Post by Brine » 18 Feb 2010, 08:33

Looks like an aluminum patch would work good there. No need to weld it on, unless your hyper-sensative about cosmetics and are trying to make the hole disappear. Otherwise, pop rivets and some 5200 should do the job nicely. Make sure to check out bassboys mod on his Yazoo if you haven't already and you will see the patch I am referring to. I checked with him not so long ago about how his patch was working on the boat, and he replied that he had no leaks and no concerns with doing it again.

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Troutman3000
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Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 08:47

Brine wrote:Looks like an aluminum patch would work good there. No need to weld it on, unless your hyper-sensative about cosmetics and are trying to make the hole disappear. Otherwise, pop rivets and some 5200 should do the job nicely. Make sure to check out bassboys mod on his Yazoo if you haven't already and you will see the patch I am referring to. I checked with him not so long ago about how his patch was working on the boat, and he replied that he had no leaks and no concerns with doing it again.

I am not worried about cosmetics that much at all. I did want to reinstall another outside transom because the allumunim is thin on the transom and I wanted to re-enforce it. I should be able to install the outside transome over the patch right?

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nbaffaro
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Post by nbaffaro » 18 Feb 2010, 11:25

I'll tell what would be slick is a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum cut in the same shape as that outer transom that was made of wood. Take that and use some 5200 and some counter sunk hex SS #10 to bolt it through that transom. That would take care of your problem and look cool at the same time.
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Troutman3000
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Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 11:50

nbaffaro wrote:I'll tell what would be slick is a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum cut in the same shape as that outer transom that was made of wood. Take that and use some 5200 and some counter sunk hex SS #10 to bolt it through that transom. That would take care of your problem and look cool at the same time.

So there is no need to weld it to the boat just some bolts through the inside transom? That would give me a stronger transom as well. I need to find a place that sells alluminum now.

Anybody in the Gwinnett area know of any aluminum dealers?

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Brine
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Post by Brine » 18 Feb 2010, 12:20

Troutman3000 wrote:
nbaffaro wrote:I'll tell what would be slick is a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum cut in the same shape as that outer transom that was made of wood. Take that and use some 5200 and some counter sunk hex SS #10 to bolt it through that transom. That would take care of your problem and look cool at the same time.

So there is no need to weld it to the boat just some bolts through the inside transom? That would give me a stronger transom as well. I need to find a place that sells alluminum now.

Anybody in the Gwinnett area know of any aluminum dealers?
Try Metal Supermarkets in Norcross. They are at I-85 and Pleasantdale. Measure out the size of the piece you need and let them know. I'm interested to hear what they quote you for it. You could still put plywood on the inside to beef up the transom, but I agree the .25 on the back would look slick and serve a good mulit-purpose of covering the hole, looking good, and strengthening the transom all in one.

You can also try Ryerson's. I believe they are in Lawrenceville.

Another option is just to replace the wood on the outside and use aluminum epoxy on the hole inside and out. Not sure where the hole is in realtion to the waterline. If it's above the waterline, I'd use wood and epoxy and call it a day.

And to answer your question, no, it wouldn't need to be welded on. Bolts and 5200 would do the job.

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Troutman3000
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Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 12:27

Thanks Brine. I'll check that out..... I believe its above the waterline so i may just go that route or get it welded on when I get the seems fixed.


Thanks Guys. I love this place.

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Troutman3000
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Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 12:31

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com

Do I need a plate or a sheet? Just a plate right?


For the plate of .25" for an 18" x 12" its nearly 50 bux.. Wowzers.

An aluminum square of 12" is only 7 bux. Its looks like the value is in the square. I'll just have to make a square work.

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Post by Brine » 18 Feb 2010, 12:41

Troutman3000 wrote:https://www.metalsupermarkets.com

Do I need a plate or a sheet? Just a plate right?


For the plate of .25" for an 18" x 12" its nearly 50 bux.. Wowzers.

An aluminum square of 12" is only 7 bux. Its looks like the value is in the square. I'll just have to make a square work.
:LOL2: Welcome to the world of Aluminum...

Check the thickness of that 12 x 12. I wouldn't think it would be that much less. If it is correct, it must have something to do with fall-off. I have given up trying to find recyling/scrap yards in or near Gwinnett that will sell to the public, so my last option has been...bite the bullet and pay for new, or a product called ACM which Ryerson has that's like an Aluminum/Ply. It can't be welded, but it should have the same life expectancy as aluminum.

If it's above the waterline, I'd have no issues of just using wood on either side and sandwiching aluminum epoxy or 5200 over the hole.
Last edited by Brine on 19 Feb 2010, 08:06, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Troutman3000 » 18 Feb 2010, 14:12

Thanks Man. I'll look into it. It believe it is above the waterline but I really wanted to re-enforce the rear transom too for a potential outboard.

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Post by Rat » 18 Feb 2010, 23:04

Troutman3000 wrote:Thanks Man. I'll look into it. It believe it is above the waterline but I really wanted to re-enforce the rear transom too for a potential outboard.
The wood and any transom braces (knees) are what make the transom stronger; a little piece of 12 x 12 Alu. isn't going to do anything really, no matter how thick it is. You would need to run it from member to member (side to side and top to braces) to give it any real strength.

I say just patch the hole and put in a good solid transom board and if you are worried about additional strength for an outboard install some transom braces.

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Post by Troutman3000 » 19 Feb 2010, 06:49

I talked to my welder and he is going to brace up the back transom and replace the outside transom for me. I am having him hit up all the leaky spots, all the seams, and re-enforce/patch the transom for 100 bucks. If I get all the leaks sealed I wont need to use Steel Flex and can avoid that expenditure.

Jason

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Post by Brine » 19 Feb 2010, 08:11

Troutman3000 wrote:I talked to my welder and he is going to brace up the back transom and replace the outside transom for me. I am having him hit up all the leaky spots, all the seams, and re-enforce/patch the transom for 100 bucks. If I get all the leaks sealed I wont need to use Steel Flex and can avoid that expenditure.

Jason
Would you ask him how much he would charge me to:

1. Attach a bow eye.
2. Patch (2) 1.25 holes in the hull

I'll do as much prepwork as I can with a flapper disc.

I have pics in my Rhyan Craft thread of each issue.

Thanks!

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Post by Troutman3000 » 19 Feb 2010, 10:05

What do you all think about repairs to something like this. I can trade for it for really nothing so if it cost 100 bux or so thats fine really.




I have an old Sears outboard motor, 7 horsepower. It won't start right now, because it is not getting spark. It probably needs a magneto. It has great compression and ran strong before this spark problem popped up. Anyway, I don't really need it anymore, so I have not been motivated to fix it.

The motor has an internal gas tank, but also has the connections for an external tank. I'll throw in an external tank, hose and pump with the motor. You can even have the sawhorse it's sitting on, if you want it.

I would love to swap it for a ping pong table. First choice, by far.

However, if you have something else to offer, send it to me. I don't need any computer stuff, but other than that, I'm pretty open. Guy stuff, power tools, Ferraris...whatta ya got? I'm just ready to get this out of my garage, at this point.
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