My first project. 1963 Alumacraft 16' V

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millertime4242

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Well the remodel has begun! I'm planning on doing this project in a couple weeks, so I'll hopefully have some updates soon. I finished gutting the boat this morning, and have since put up the first support for the front casting deck. I'm putting it a bit higher than recommended, but that's where I want it. I plan on installing a rod locker, battery box, storage compartments, switch panel, all the electric, trolling motor mount, and rear deck. We'll see what the budget allows for. The pictures below are of the boat this morning. I have since removed the rear seat and began on the front deck. I'll load pics as I go.

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looks like a start. what are you using for the frame(wood)? going to be nice!
 
Well I'm a few days into it now, and I've made some good progress. I had a drawing on the computer, but once I got to the boat things had to change a little due to some vertical supports being needed. I prob spent a total of an hour each day just visualizing where I should put everything :lol: But one good idea I had today was to have a slide out cooler under the deck. This way if you put ice in it, you can easily pull it out, without having to open a hatch and pull it straight out. I also like the idea of a sliding cooler because you can take it in the house, pack it up and just slide it into its spot in the boat.

On the right side of the boat I have put a rod locker that will have a decklid, middle right is a Rubbermaid storage container that will have a decklid, Middle left is the sliding cooler, then on the left side I will leave space to slide in the oars, net, and extra poles if need be. I have also made a place for the batteries, I still have to build the box that will hold them, in the pic the plastic battery housings are just sitting on the supports. I also plan to build a recessed tray for the foot control of the trolling motor. I know you can buy these and they just slip right in, but I think I will be cheaper to make one, plus it's more fun :) I am also installing a pvc pipe that will run under the floor from the front to back and will house the wires. I need to get a hole saw to cut a few holes. The last pic is a close up of the brackets I made using rivets and AL angle. Check out the pictures below, let me know if you see some problems! or things you like! I have a few more supports to build up front, then it's off to the rear deck!

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Well it has been awhile since I updated this post, but some progress has been made on my boat. I was able to complete the framing of the front deck. It includes a rod locker, battery hatch with room for 2 batteries, storage hatch housing a large rubbermaid container, one small hatch for smaller objects, a cutout that allows the oars and net to slide under the deck, a recessed area for the foot control of the bow mount trolling motor, and a area to slide a coleman cooler into. I also ran a pvc pipe from front to back allowing power to get to the back of the boat. In the floor you can also see where I installed two seat bases. I have to thank my dad who helped out a bunch. He's retired carpenter and can really make things look good (notice all the bases are recessed into the decking, which does away with the raised area over the base when the carpet is installed) We also installed a access hatch in the recessed area for the foot control that allows me access to the bow of the boat.

All the framing was done with 2x2's. The decking was 3/4" ply and the carpet was from Menards with the marine backing. The hinges I uses were aluminum hinges from McMaster Carr. They were the cheapest I found and the cost of shipping was awesome. I bought one six foot and one three foot hinge. I plan on mounting the trolling motor this weekend, I installed the base for it tonight. I also need to wire my switch panel i bought. Right now the only electric items on the boat are running lights, depth finder, and trolling motor (which I'll connect directly to the battery). The 40hp mercury is pull start (for right now :) I have not started on the back deck as of yet. Below are the pictures, as well as one more I found of the boat after I gutted everything. Also, my dad was able to locate some marine rivets, which allowed me to plug some of the holes the boat had accumulated over the years, as well as replace a few of the regular rivets I put in it.

I do have a couple questions for you guys. Do i need to put an inline fuse or breaker between the battery and trolling motor? If so, what size would I need? I'll be installing a 55lb MoterGuide 12v. Also, when I charge my battery, do I need to disconnect everything from it first? Thanks for any info!

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FootControlDoor.jpg
 
I would recommend a circuit breaker. A 30 amp inline on the positive lead would be ideal.

I do believe that you have to disconnect everything before you charge your battery.

That looks great. I hope you sealed your wood...? Very cool cooler idea. Makes me want a really deep boat.
 
This may sound like a "duh" question to a lot of you, but when you built your floor, did you just kind of cut the wood to measure and basically just let it rest on the bottom of the boat or is it attached somehow?

The boat looks fantastic by the way!
 
breachless said:
This may sound like a "duh" question to a lot of you, but when you built your floor, did you just kind of cut the wood to measure and basically just let it rest on the bottom of the boat or is it attached somehow?

The boat looks fantastic by the way!

I wanted to just have a floating floor, that way I could remove it easily if I wanted, but it proved harder than I thought to cut the floor, carpet it, and slide it in. Plus once I got the back deck built I thought it might be a little hard to remove, so I decided to screw it down. The carpet was cut a 1/4" to 1/2" long and tucked in along the sides with a putty knife.

koulaid said:
Is the recessed foot tray for your trolling motor pedal?
Yes, I got my trolling motor working yesterday and plan on mounting it tonight. I'll get some pics up when I'm done.

I'm also going to a boat service place today to see if they will sell me a 40-50 amp inline circuit breaker for my trolling motor.

I also plan on painting all the exposed wood under the deck with enamel paint to protect it further. Anyone have any suggestions of paint?
 
Maiden Voyage! Everything went well. I have a lot to learn when it comes to boat control :shock: but I had a good time. Caught a few fish to boot!!!


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The trolling motor is a 12v 46lb thrust Motorguide Pro Series (even though the outside says its a Brute, we switched some parts because the Brute had a bent shaft, long story). But that 46lb thrust moves that boat around no problem! I ran most of the day on speed 1.
 
Actually it is very stable! I have an uncle with a 14' v-bottom where he mounted a push pole stand above his motor (lives on the flats in FL) and the stability is okay in that, so i wasn't real worried. But I was actually surprised at just how stable my boat is. I've been on a lot of bass boats and it just under their stability. The beam is 66" at the widest point, about 3/4 the way back in the front deck.
 
Thank You for your post, Finally some one has the same boat I have. Except for mine is a 1964. You have given me some good Ideas, and hopefully you could answer some questions I have.
Did you lose any of the structural strength when you cut the seats out? That is what bothers me the most about cutting the supports out from side to side. I was thinking about 2x4's on top of the seats and decking on top of that.
 
I was not afraid of losing any structural support because the deck and deck bracing act as a support just like the seat did. Actually, I think there is more support now, at least up front, than with the seat. Once I get the rear deck done, which will have at least 3 horizontal braces from side to side, it too will give more support than just the seat. Hope that makes sense. Yes, I have a floor in the middle now instead of the middle seat, but I think with the two decks, it will still be plenty of support for the middle of the boat.
 
Thanks for the reply, hope to see more new pictures soon.

Your supports on the sides, did you rivet them through the outside wall of the boat? And how are Marine grade rivets differant
from regular aluminum rivets?
 
WOW, very nice deck indeed. You'll need some kind of gate to keep the cooler in place while traveling. Did I miss it in your posts or did you not paint the decking before you put on the carpet over the wood w/o paint? Even with marine carpet the water will get to the decking.
 
Fish Fighter- Yes, I popped riveted the rivets to the outside of the boat. Marine rivets have a sealed center in them, unlike regular rivets that will leak through the center post. Both can be applied using a regular rivet gun. I also put silicone in the hole before I ran the rivet through, then put a bit on the outside of the rivet also, just trying to make it as waterproof as possible. Will they leak? Maybe....but we'll see. Haven't been out in the elements yet to test them.

I think the shaft on the trolling motor is 42" I'll have to double check that tonight however when I get home. Whatever it is, it is plenty long. I had to raise it up on my first trip out because of the weed choked lake I was fishing.

Header-Actually, we built the compartment around the cooler so tight, that the friction of the cooler against the carpet keeps it in place. Worked out pretty good. And no I did not paint the wood. We did use Thompsons water sealer, so hopefully that works. The boats is in the garage when not in use, which is good. Hopefully I can get at least a handful of good years from it.
 

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