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here we go....

Posted: 30 Jun 2010, 21:56
by bandgeek1263
Well, I gots a boat :D

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Posted: 30 Jun 2010, 21:57
by bandgeek1263
Sorry, they posted in reverse order. Don't know why though.

here we go....

Posted: 30 Jun 2010, 22:54
by Brine

here we go....

Posted: 01 Jul 2010, 22:06
by bandgeek1263
Thanks for the link, it for some reason wasn't working on my computer when I tried it as I was looking for info.

So, first thing is first. My dad says I can't paint it no matter how much I explain it to him. So, jumping right to the inside. Redid the transom in about 90 minutes of straight work. There were so many rusted bolts and things stickin out so that was very time consuming. I now have to seal it and get to Home Depot to get some 5200 to seal the bolts.

Edit: sealed transom, just gotta find 5200.
rsz_move_up_day_boat_002.jpg
Sealed, and ready to be mounted completely.

here we go.... NEED HELP

Posted: 02 Jul 2010, 22:38
by bandgeek1263
Some progress today. Removed a bench, the only one that will be removed; cut the floor framing, and started framing the bow. I need some help with a couple spots in the gunwale.Theres a 2 inch tear and a few holes from the previous oar locks. Should I try brazing rods? Welding?
Thanks for the help in advance.
Boat 007.jpg
tear
Boat 008.jpg
holes
Boat 004.jpg
some of the framing.

here we go....

Posted: 02 Jul 2010, 22:50
by huntinfool
Looks good so far, just be careful raising the floor too much, that boat does not look too wide and it will get top heavy in a hurry. As for the split on the gunnel, I guess how I would fix it might be different than most and it would depend on your skill level. I personally would weld it. If I could not weld it I would cut a small piece of aluminum to fit underneath and pop rivet it in and then just fill the hole with jb weld or something like that. You might be able to put the aluminum underneath it and get the brazing/aluminum rod and try that.

here we go....

Posted: 02 Jul 2010, 22:53
by bandgeek1263
I was thinking a screen or something of that sort and brazing or epoxying over that. Also, I made my own strong ties from galvanized steel strapping that works perfectly. Is it going to react with the aluminum?

Its surprisingly stable. Three guys standing up could fish pretty easily and comfortably. Thanks for keeping an eye out.

here we go....

Posted: 03 Jul 2010, 00:52
by Sader762
Fix it with a brazing rod they work well for situations like that.

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Posted: 03 Jul 2010, 03:17
by bandgeek1263
Will these work?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding-me ... n--3810802

Anybody know if the galvanic coating will react with the aluminum? I don't think it will corrode anything, but it might add a layer of oxide that could compromise the structural integrity.

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Posted: 03 Jul 2010, 23:06
by bandgeek1263
Anyone? Really need some help here...

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Posted: 04 Jul 2010, 02:03
by Sader762
NO---use aluminum ones, those are made from other metals=bad idea. I got mine from Northern tool, cost around $12.

Look on youtube to see how to use them.

here we go....

Posted: 04 Jul 2010, 02:17
by bandgeek1263
Oh yeah progress for today- well yesterday technically- started bracing for the bow cover and started the trolling motor conversion to a bow mount. Yup, measured the aluminum for the arm, started cutting with a cutoff wheel. Caught an edge, and gouged a nice laceration in my knee through my shorts. Went inside and realized I was late to my girlfriend's 4th party. Sign from god saying I should spend less time on the boat? Who knows. I think I needed stitches, but it wasn't bleeding too badly so I just butterflied it and got back to work. Still need to get to home depot and get some plywood, carpet, and wire. That will probably be it for the building, then need seats, lights, switches, and whatever else I wanna burn my (dad's) wallet on.

Wish me luck

here we go....

Posted: 04 Jul 2010, 02:21
by bandgeek1263
My friend's dad is a master welder so I might have him work his TIG magic rather than brazing.

here we go....

Posted: 09 Jul 2010, 03:36
by bandgeek1263
Going to paint it. Charcoal Grey on bottom, and DARK blue on top. I'm slightly worried about registration. There is no title I'm sure, seeing as the last time it was registered was in '73. The only Serial Number info I saw before the 2500 psi water killed it was CF-****** (I only saw CF, or perhaps something similar, like CE, CS, or CT?) Other than that, I have no info on it. It is *technically* under 14 feet, and anything below 14 feet in MA you don't need a title. Should I apply for one anyway?

Random Questions:
Can you paint over 5200?

I really don't plan on spending the 200 dollars on pedestals and mounts and swivels. That is excluding the actual seat itself. Anywhere I can cut corners? That was the cheapest quote, other than Cabela's $150 with non-flush base plates. (something I really am determined not to get)

The guy who cuts our lawn has an old 6 hp Johnson or Evinrude, I don't remember. He is giving it to me for free, and I'd like to know how well it will push around my boat. I don't think it will get me on plane with all of my gear and whatnot. Should I clean it up, sell it, and reinvest the money in a larger motor?

What happens if my trolling motor's shaft doesn't reach the water from the bow where I will be mounting? Could I fabricate something to allow the motor to hang over the side more? I am a little overwhelmed at the moment. Well, it could be worse. I have to recut all of my center floor spars due to them not fitting as properly as I though they would end up.

I have to wire wheel down to bare aluminum and use self etching primer right? How well will the paint adhere? Will it chip easily? I plan on using Rustoleum.

Anyway, I feel like I'm rambling. Please post concerns, criticism, and comments. Thanks guys, without this forum I would still be fishing from the shore. :LOL2:

here we go....

Posted: 09 Jul 2010, 10:01
by Loggerhead Mike
no. you've really got to have some good skill to get those to work correctly

the main problem is the amount of heat you need to break threw the oxide barrier is above aluminums melting point. I'd just get a welder to fix it correctly you're probably looking at an hour labor charge