matt's alumacraft 14'

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maddog

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
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Location
Portage Chain of Lakes, Pinckney, Michigan
My dad gave me this boat and motor a few years ago. I painted this boat 2 years ago and added a couple of clamp on seats. I have a 9.5 HP Johnson outboard and a 30lb thrust endura trolling motor. The trailer is an old jetski trailer that I added 4' too the tounge and built bunks on a couple of years ago so I didn't have to load this in my truck anymore. I am planning to build a front and rear deck, remove the middle seat and put a floor in it. the transom needs rebuilt. It looks like this: (there is some mud on it because my yard is a bit sloppy right now):

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here is after removing the middle seat and cutting the front deck:
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I still need to put bracing in under the front deck but it was getting cold out pretty quick tonight so I came in early.
 
Looks good. There's a lot of options you can do, have fun at it. I got the same tin can. It's been a good boat so far.

Jim
 
I am trying to figure out how I want to do the floor. I was going to rivet aluminum angle to the bottom of the front and rear seats and use that to build the floor off like I saw in Zubes build but the floor would not be level (bottom of rear seat is lower than bottom of front in my boat) or it would be higher than I would like. I am thinking about just securing some 2x2's to the bottom ribs and screwing some plywood down to those. It looks like I could run a 2x2 support 5" to each side of the middle drain spots (10" total between the middle supports) but I am not sure if I will need additional support or if the plywood sitting on the outside floor/ribs will be sturdy enough. The small level is used to show where a sheet of plywood would lay if I do the floor this way. I could add some additional supports but would probably have to cut an angle along the bottom of a 2x2 to keep the top of the board level and the bottom of the board in full contact with the hull.

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What thickness plywood do you guys use for flooring? I am using 5/8 for the front deck. I was going to get another sheet of 5/8 for the floor but if I can use 3/4 and only run a couple of supports down the middle I may do that. What do you guys think would work best? I also thought about just screwing the 1/2 ply to the ribs like jimmy fins did but I would prefer a flat floor. I may want to mount a pin mount seat there and it would be easier with a flat floor that has some bracing underneath to bolt to.
 
Jimmy Fins, I really like your boat. I am going to try to do the sides of my boat very similar to what you did. Is your floor flat enough to use a chair on? I was really considering doing my floor like yours. Would I be able to put one of those quad base seat that they sell at cabelas without it being tippy? By the way, I am just a bit west of you. I am in Lenawee county, 20 minutes west of Ann Arbor. I usually fish the Irish Hills. The lakes out there are about 15 miles west of me. I would like to get out your way and do some walleye fishing one of these days too.
 
I bought a 2X4 sheet of oak faced 3/4" plywood to redo the transom. It was only a few bucks more than pine and I figured it would look nicer. I am going to make the inside piece larger than the original one that was on there to add some strength. I am planning on tying the transom into the rear seat/deck area also for additional strength. I am most likely just going to put several coats of spar varnish on it and fasten with stainless bolts/screws. The boards that were on there weren't coated and they lasted a long time. This boat sits either in my garage or in my polebarn when not on the water so weather and sun aren't a big issue.

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I am thinking about putting a 20 HP 4 stroke on here (yamaha or honda, still need to research that) and I want to make sure the transom is plenty strong to handle the extra weight and power. I would get a 2 stroke but can't find any major manufacturer that makes a 15-20HP 2 stroke other than the evinrude etec 15 H.O. that weighs 177 lbs (it's a detuned 30HP I think).
 
I think you would be ok with your plan. I have a 1982 Alumacraft and my supports are further apart than what you're. planning and I didn't notice any flexing in the wood. My floor wasn't screwed down either, it just rested against the sides and sat on the floor supports.IMG_6235_1.JPG
 
No problem on the walleye there's plenty out there to catch, Love to have ya out. My floor probably would not work for a base. The route your going to beef up the floor to support the weight of a person will pay off in the end. My deal was a quick and easy and because I do all my fishing pretty much from the back didn't feel the need for a seat. The sides are easy and as you fasten them to the existing seats it will strengthen the boat up I believe.

Jim
 
the transom boards are cut, stained and have several coats of spar varnish on them. I would have mounted them tonight but the old screws weren't quite as long as I wanted. The hardware store was closing in 10 minutes when I called to check their hours so I will have to wait until tomorrow to finish the transom. I plan to put some silicone caulk between the boards and aluminum to help keep water out. Probably seal the screws in with silicone also.

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I cut the top of the transom brace down a bit. it wasn't attached to the transom and was broken anyway. This should give the inner transom board more strength since I will have to make a smaller notch to fit it over this brace. The old inner transom board was 1", the outer was 1/4" or 3/8". The new boards are both 3/4" plywood. It should be stronger than it was. I plan to brace the transom also with the frame for the rear deck.

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Front bracing for underneath the front deck is in. I have to cut a 12"x16" opening in the plywood for storage area access.

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It is coming along. slower than I would like but shouldn't be too much longer. This nice weather is making me wish it was done, I should be out fishing!
 
HI maddog. Glad you're making progress, but I would recommend 3M 5200 marine sealant to seal your through hull hardware, rather than the silicone you mentioned. You should be able to find it at Lowes/HD and many auto parts stores. Be sure you use stainless steel hardware as well, to avoid any adverse galvanic reactions.
 
Looking good...

A coupe questions...do you mean spar urethane? spar varnish is not the same and won't give you quite as long a life from your transom.

Second - by silicone do you mean 5200? If not, I would suggest you pick some up - it will be more effective long run.

Third - I would suggest that you do not put it around the edge of the wood, at least on the inside. If water does make its way somehow behind the wood you will not know it - it will be trapped there and rot from the back.
 
thanks for the tips on the 5200. I didn't see any at the local lowes but I will check HD and the auto parts store.

I think it is spar varnish, I would have to look at the can to be sure. I got it at lowes, it is rustoleum brand. It is the milky colored stuff that is kind of rubbery. I sealed the edges and both sides of the boards. That area normally doesn't get much if any water on it but I don't want it to hold water in if it does get wet. I can sand the edges though if I need to remove the sealer from the edges.

I have mostly stainless hardware. The front bracing for under the casting deck has carriage bolts made out of steel. It isn't gavlanized but I think zinc plated? It is bolted through wood and then the aluminum angle I riveted to the seats. the screws to fasten the transom boards are stainless 1.5", I just picked those up today. I didn't get a chance to work on the boat tonight, the weather was pretty bad here. Tomorrow should be a better day to work outside.

thanks again for all the suggestions and help. This is my first time rebuilding a boat!
 
How large of an opening do you guys leave in the rear deck to accomodate the motor mount bracket? I am going to order a 20 HP honda to put on here but don't know if the bracket is the same width as my old johnson 9.5 HP. I can probably call the dealer tomorrow and ask them to measure something similar to let me know. Hoping to get this thing wrapped up this weekend. I hear the fishing is heating up around here!
 
I would not sand the edge off the transom, if you do It will allow water to intrude between the wood and cause rotting....the edge is very important to keep sealed....if you look at my mod you will see what will happen if the edge is not sealed.
 
maddog said:
Front bracing for underneath the front deck is in. I have to cut a 12"x16" opening in the plywood for storage area access.

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It is coming along. slower than I would like but shouldn't be too much longer. This nice weather is making me wish it was done, I should be out fishing!

Looking good! I thought I was actually looking at a picture of my build when I saw yours. Let me know if you need any pointers, it looks like we are working with the same/very similar boat.

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bigwave said:
I would not sand the edge off the transom, if you do It will allow water to intrude between the wood and cause rotting....the edge is very important to keep sealed....if you look at my mod you will see what will happen if the edge is not sealed.

The same thing will happen if water gets behind it - you won't know it's there and it will be trapped which will accelerate the rotting.

I totally disagree for that reason.
 
Zubes, yes I copied your design for the front deck bracing.

I didn't sand the sealer off the edges of the transom board. I did see that the stuff I bought was spar varnish. I have some spar urethane now I am going to put down on the plywood before I glue the vinyl down. If the transom gets messed up/waterlogged I will do it again, next time using some type of resin like west system. I have the front deck and rear area pretty much done. I have to cut some access doors for the rear deck area. I worked on the floor today. It is mostly done. I don't have pics now but should be able to get some tomorrow. The nice weather up here has set me back a bit. after the transom was done I went fishing 3 times so far. Hoping to get this mostly wrapped up this weekend. I ordered a 20 HP Honda short shaft manual start today for it. I think this boat will handle that according to the power calculations I found on this webpage. The 9.5 I have won't get the boat up on plane.

Here is a quick update:

I need to cut another piece of plywood to close in the front bow. I am going to build a small cubby there to stow the front anchor. I think my battery will go in the front storage area but not certain. I am probably not going to put a front trolling motor on for now. I just have to clean the wood, mount my front seat post/base, cut the vinyl and glue it down.

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I have the 1/2 ply cut for the back platform, just need to figure out how I want to do the access hatches. The 6 gallon fuel tank won't fit but it looks like a 3 gallon will. The honda will come with a 3 gallon. If it doesn't fit I know cabelas sells 3 gallon tanks that will fit. The front deck and the floor are 5/8 ply, I think the 1/2 willl be strong enough for the rear deck. It seems to be when I just throw it on the braces and stand on it.
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Hopefully I will get the vinyl glued down this weekend. I will just then need to figure out how I want to brace the sides and mount rod holders.
 
from this weekend:

closed in the bow:
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the rear deck is cut but I have to figure out where to put the hatches. I am thinking maybe just one 16 X 18 hatch in the middle. I have to wait until I get the new motor to see what will work with the new gas tank and motor position etc. I have to mount part of the depth/sonar unit someplace and maybe my battery charger. Under the rear makes the most sense but have to try to make everything fit. Any suggestions?
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Floor. This is strange, the floor is cut straight/square, but the front/rear seats are off by 1" from port to starboard. I will probably trim the floor to be crooked to match my boat. This boat must have been assembled on a Monday after a holiday weekend...
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rear deck and floor are just setting on the bracing. you can see how the floor goes under the front seat on the right and not the left. The floor may be a little canted in this pic, but the seats really are off if you put a tape (measure) on it.
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