Delhi 1430 Build - Completed - New Pictures 7/13

Hey all!

I'm a new member to the site but I've been looking at builds on here for a couple years now. I had a project bass boat that I recently sold and bought a 14' Dehli flat bottom and trailer from a buddy for $300. I've got some pretty good ideas for the boat but it's my first jon build so I'll definitely be looking for some advice!

I kept a lot off of my project bass boat to put onto the new build. I have:
-Motorguide FW40 bow mounted trolling motor
-Deep cycle battery (EverMaxx, don't know the model but it's the biggest one WalMart has)
-2 brand new folding fishing seats with pedestal assemblies
-New bunk brackets for trailer
-Stern light and socket

What I want to do in the build:
-Sand, seal, repaint!
-Replace transom
-Deck from the bow seat to the first bench with hatches for storage underneath
-Fabricate and install livewell behind the first bench
-Add wood floor from front bench to back bench
-Deck back bench to the transom
-Build mount for trolling motor flush with top of gunwale


Here are some pictures of the new rig:

















I found out the trailer is a tilt trailer which is pretty neat


Removed rotting wood from trailer. I am going to install 6' carpeted bunk boards


I'm really excited about this build and I'm pretty sure I can do a quality job! One question to start it off though. I have been reading about Steelflex and I'd like to cover the bottom of the boat. I may be making some modifications that would have me put new rivets or bolts through the boat (transom transducer for fish finder, etc.). I've seen a lot of guys sand and Steelflex as one of the first steps when they start a new build. Is it beneficial to do it sooner or wait until most of the metal fabrication is done before I do it? I just started sanding so it will be a bit before I get to that, but just preparing for the next step. Please feel free to leave any advice or pointers!

Its a nice boat and trailer and a good deal. no offense but it looks like it might be a 1432 and the build plate shows 1430. I dont think a high deck would be good on the boat, stability wise. Wood decking on the bottom of the boat and pedestal seats on the floor might work good. A 5-15 hp will push it great too. You might put it in water to check it out and see how stable it is. Have fun with it. 8)

You know what, you're right Jay! I was measuring from the wrong spot (still new to this!). It actually is a 1430. So new plan, front deck just for the storage space and trolling motor mount, but the pedestal seat will be floor mounted behind the first bench seat.

Dockside85 said:

You know what, you're right Jay! I was measuring from the wrong spot (still new to this!). It actually is a 1430. So new plan, front deck just for the storage space and trolling motor mount, but the pedestal seat will be floor mounted behind the first bench seat.

Click to expand...

I just realized that if I bow mount the trolling motor and put the pedestal seat on the floor behind the first bench, I am not going to be able to get to the foot control for the trolling motor. I will have to figure something else out!

I have a 1648 with a 25 all set up but I have a 15hp sitting in the garage I been thinking about finding a 1432 to put it on. It would make it fly and the wife would kill me [-X :lol:

My 1432 is only rated for a 10, Ive got an 8..flies about 20 loaded down with gear, close to 25 no gear

Got a bit done to the trailer today.

New winch and jack from Harbor Freight. I also moved the winch post up about a foot on the trailer. Took off every single bolt and nut from the trailer and replaced them with new galvanized bolts to prevent future rust.


Took the old broken lights off. New light kit is on its way from Amazon but until it gets here I'm working on cutting and riveting a new aluminum bracket to mount to the trailer. I'm also installing brackets on the trailer to support bunk boards.


Tomorrow all the bunk brackets will be on and the water sealed 2x4's will be carpeted and secured to the bunk brackets.

This trailer rebuild is going slower than I'd like but I don't want to rush through it! Almost done with it though.

Got both bunk boards water sealed, carpeted, and bolted to the bolster brackets on the trailer. I may need to add a new carpeted bunk up front, but I'll see how the boat sits on it first. FYI guys, don't use your wife's fabric scissors to cut rubber-backed outdoor carpet. Find (or buy) another pair. Trust me.



The both of the mounting brackets the trailer tail lights were on were rusted and bent, so they came off to save time I just built new ones rather than looking for more to buy. Started with a 2" strip of aluminum, 4 pieces and riveted them onto an aluminum strip bent at a 90 degree angle. Made two L shapes that I will bolt onto the trailer today and secure the lights to them. Couple more holes to drill and they'll be on.



Today the light brackets will be on and the tailer will be about 90% done. The only thing I have left to figure out is some guide on bunks, but I don't quite know how to go about those yet so I'll shift over and start sanding the boat down.

Got the lights put on the trailer and it's done for now!



Not sure I like how far past the end of the trailer they ended up, but I can always move them later.


Now on to the boat. Started with sanding it down and I realize now how daunting this part is going to be! I'm using an 18v Ryobi CornerCat sander with 120 grit paper. It works great on wood, but the aluminum is smoothing out my sandpaper extremely quick. Is there a better/quicker/more efficient way to do this?

This little bit probably took me 30 minutes and 3 pieces of sandpaper.




Looks like I have my work cut out for this weekend!

Why are you sanding it down?

The paint is 30+ years old and fading. It also has a lot of rough spots that need to be smoothed out before repainting. I figure the best way to get a good lasting coat would be to sand it all down to the metal, use self etching primer, and repaint.

Got more of the boat sanded down this weekend. Ordered Steelflex for the hull so I'll have the boat ready by the time it gets here.






I removed half of the rotted transom brace wood using nothing but my hand. It peeled off pretty easy!


I need some input for how to continue with this. I want to deck the boat but being a 1430 I'm going to have to stick with just a floor deck for stability. The trolling motor I have to put on it is a bow mounted trolling motor. I was originally going to deck from the bow seat to the second seat and use the underneath for storage. My problem is that if I keep the front bench seat in the boat, deck from the bow seat to the middle bench, and mount my seat behind behind the bench, I won't be able to reach the foot control for the trolling motor.



What I'm thinking is that I will have to remove the front bench seat and do one low deck about an inch off the hull and do a small deck up front to mount the trolling motor, electronics, and storage. I was thinking of making a hole at the front of the deck to feed the trolling motor cable through it. This would keep the foot control on the floor and I could mount my fishing seat closer to the front. Any ideas??

Also, wondering about when to apply the Steelflex. It would make sense to hold off until I at least have the boat to the point where I'm installing the wood for the low deck and carpet right? At least to the point where I'm no longer drilling, griding or screwing anything to or through the exterior hull. I see a lot of guys do this right after they sand and repaint, I'm just wondering if there's something I don't know that would make me want to go ahead and do it ASAP.

Got a bit of work done to the boat since my last update. I think it's coming along pretty well for my first build.

Started by removing middle bench and bow seat. I'm going to put a low deck in the boat so I took the bench out to mount my seat there.




Had to cut off all of the rivets on the interior of the transom and removed the rotting transom wood.



Sanded, washed, and primed the transom.


Started priming the interior after it was good and sanded down, washed, and wiped clean with a tack cloth.


Annnnd finished priming the inside.




I sanded down the bottom of the hull well enough left the back area where the gas tank would go bare on the floor. Steelflex came in yesterday so that is going to cover the entire exterior hull and the gas tank area behind the back bench. That's 1 gallon in two parts with 4oz of olive drab pigment. Cost $63 delivered to GA.


New exterior and interior transom supports curing with water resistant varnish on them.



Decided after I primed the whole interior that I wanted another closed compartment for storage. I cut out an opening in the rear bench seat. I didn't photograph the styrofoam that I pulled from it, but it was completely brown and smelled like absolute death.




Battery fits in there perfect height-wise. Eventually there will be a hinged piece of carpeted 3/4" plywood covering the storage compartment. I still need to clean out the inside of that compartment but I'll get to that this weekend.


I like the way the build is progressing, but I'm just concerned about one thing. After cutting that hole in the rear bench seat and removing all the foam, I've removed all flotation from the boat. With the added weight of the wood, gear, and everything else that will be secured to the boat I'm not sure that the styrofoam would keep it afloat if it did flip, but now it has nothing. I've seen some guys on here put home insulation foam sheets underneath their floor decks in their build. Does this help flotation at all if the boat was swamped or is it more for sound dampening? What is the purpose of putting it underneath the floor?
I'll post a picture later tonight of my plan going forward for the boat.

Put foam back in your boat! If it gets swamped you're screwed, it'll sink right to the bottom. You can buy foam sheets, don't buy any open cell which is looks like a sponge with holes. Buy closed cell. And another thing you can do it buy pool noodles and cut them up and put them in places where there is open space under the deck that isn't being used by storage. Put flotation back in your boat. Keep us updated.

For your deck situation, I would suggest just a little 2-3 foot deck in the front to mount your Trolling motor on, and it will give you a place for storage and FOAM! I wouldn't recommend standing on it though, stay on the floor. Check out my build for some ideas, I have a 1432.

Kochy said:

Put foam back in your boat! If it gets swamped you're screwed, it'll sink right to the bottom. You can buy foam sheets, don't buy any open cell which is looks like a sponge with holes. Buy closed cell. And another thing you can do it buy pool noodles and cut them up and put them in places where there is open space under the deck that isn't being used by storage. Put flotation back in your boat. Keep us updated.

Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll have about 1" of space under the floorboard and on the sides so I'll pack the spaces with as much as I can.

JonBoatfever said:

For your deck situation, I would suggest just a little 2-3 foot deck in the front to mount your Trolling motor on, and it will give you a place for storage and FOAM! I wouldn't recommend standing on it though, stay on the floor. Check out my build for some ideas, I have a 1432.

Click to expand...

Yeah that's exactly what I'm doing. I'm building a short deck (I believe 29" if I remember the measurements) to end right at the very first rib. It will strictly be to mount the trolling motor, nav light, and fish finder. Underneath I'll have a spot for tackle storage, anchor, and yes foam!

Looks good so far =D> =D> =D>

Ictalurus said:

Looks good so far =D> =D> =D>

Click to expand...

Thanks! I think she'll turn out alright.