1960 Crestliner Sportman's 12' Shallow-V Re-Mod

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Frogman Ladue

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Location
..on any random lake in NE Ohio...
1960 Crestliner Sportman's 12 Shallow-V Re-Mod

Ok fellas, here's what I got....

1960 Crestliner Sportsman's 12' Shallow-V, that I had restored and modded in the summer of 2010. Sorry, no "before" pics. I am currently in the process of doing some small add-ons and touch-ups, so I figured I'd post a couple of pick. It started as a chipped aqua, light blue, hunters green hull, with a 1965 summers gold and brown oak leaf cammo interior, with seats that appeared to be salvaged from an old picnic table. It was sanded, seams were welded, seams were dressed with Herculiner, and the whole thing was painted with Sherwin William's industrial enamel. Then it got attacked with a few rattle-cans.

Upon a Harbor Freight Trailer...

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...front seat "deck" to be lengthened 2" and have a seat affixed. The first board was the original seat. The two planks infront of it were added on. The small space infront of the original seat, coupled with the steep vee, made this area useless, and impossible to step into, so it got decked. I now have enough room underneath for the anchor, rope, 3 life vests, and I have a flat platform to step on during beach loading.

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...second seat, sides were added fore and aft to make storage for oars, ropes, and other long stuff...

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...third row seating, with bullet proof storage.

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...I added a .30cal ammo can, with lock, that holds the boat registration, distress flag, fire extinguisher, distress wistle, naviagation maps, and some stringers in a permanant, secure, and dry box that's always with the boat.

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...the transom pad inside is 1" x 5" red oak, spared, Herculined, and painted. This pad is considerably larger than the well rotten original. Eye-lets were added for stringers.

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...the rear transom pad was cut from red oak plank, spared, Herculined, and painted. This pad is also considerably larger than the original. Had I known then, what I know now, I wouldn't have cut the transom so low as to match the original. I could use the extra couple of inches in height for the motor.

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...more to come..
 
I got a motor for it....

45# Motorguide Varimax. With one person and the barrel back...it scoots!

I'm not sure if I want to take the plunge into gas power. I have more than enough electric only lakes around me with really good fishing. It's small enough that it gets a little scary around the big boats and waves. Granted, around these parts, when you see another boat, it's gonna wind an weave infront of you, wide open, with a faimly of d-bags and a spoilded kid in tow on a tube. None of which give a darn about the little guys, canoes, no wake zones, or the folks fishing on the shore. The bass boat guys are cool and slow down, those guys are few and far between. Hitting gas lakes makes me a target.
At one time, I have seen the same boat with an old Evin 15hp on the back. A dad in the back and kid in the front. The boat appeared to be waaaay overpowered, went airborn over any wake, and did it's fair share of porpousing. (I wish my spell checker was working). I found an old pdf magazine add of the boat. It's supposedly good for 30hp. My thoughts are, if a 30hp engine didn't sink the the boat, a good flick of the throttle would send it into low earth orbit. In the end, it's just a little boat, with a shallow vee. I had looked at a few tank-on-engine 5's and a 2.5. I don't want to blow the budget. I hope to be buying a bigger boat next season.
 
Update...

Larger deck added.....

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Rattle-canned and seat affixed. Wise 21" base, 19" tall back, "Big Man's", in Mossy Oak Duck Blind, on a Smith Swivel and detachable base.

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Capt'ns chair in the back, same as front...

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I was gonna get to more today, but I'm battling a cold.
 
I like what you did on that middle bench... was there anything under the bench beforehand? I have a similar boat, the middle and rear benches have "boxes" under them like your rear bench does. Could you give me some insight on how you made that compartment?
 
There was nothing under the bench before I started...just a couple of 1x3"s to stiffen up the plank. I've seen similar boats of that era with and without a "float box". Mine didn't have one, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be there. I still have one under the back seat.

The sides are just 1x12"x60" planks that were cut down. I had made templates out of cardboard, transfered to the wood, cut with a sabre saw "skill saw", and routered the edges with a 1/4" roller guided bit. All afixed with gavenized deck screws.

Gimme a few mins, and I'll doctor up a pic showing the framing....

Done... Yellow marks the framing..

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...all the framing is 2x4" cut to 12". The seat's a 12" plank, so everything is square and eazy.
 
Frogman Ladue said:
There was nothing under the bench before I started...just a couple of 1x3"s to stiffen up the plank. I've seen similar boats of that era with and without a "float box". Mine didn't have one, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be there. I still have one under the back seat.

The sides are just 1x12"x60" planks that were cut down. I had made templates out of cardboard, transfered to the wood, cut with a sabre saw "skill saw", and routered the edges with a 1/4" roller guided bit. All afixed with gavenized deck screws.

Gimme a few mins, and I'll doctor up a pic showing the framing....

Done... Yellow marks the framing..

IMG_1794-1.jpg


...all the framing is 2x4" cut to 12". The seat's a 12" plank, so everything is square and eazy.
I really like that! Unfortunately both my seats have the boxes. My boat is a 12' Seamaid from 1960 or 1961, i think, and looks very similar to yours. As you know space is a premium and I thought about cutting lid in the bench for storage. I like what you did better. It would be great for all that stuff you need, but don't have to access regularly. Stuff like my battery lights, extra anchor for the rear, ropes, hand bilge pump, etc. Thanks for the idea.
 
Update...

..it's getting too cold and too dark to work anymore.

I got trailer guides! The ladder stabilzer method worked great. With the Harbor Freight trailer, I didn't have to cut the stabilzer, and I was able to use the existing hardware.

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Added 5 rod holders, 1 net holder. 4 on the center seat, 1 on the transom with the net holder. 1.5" PVC, 1.5" plastic conduit straps, galvanized screws, rattle-cans....'bout $35.

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hey frogmann what did you use to hold the transom light to the bench with, i got the same light just cant figure how to store it any where and i like ur idea, i have my bow light permnantly on my boat and i dont want to permenantly mount the transom light
 
I used a chunk of scrap 2x2 for the block, attached it to the float with 2 drywall-to-steel stud anchors, some RTV to seal it, and a 29cent "broom hanger clip" mounted via sealed rivits, to hold the shaft portion. When said and done, I had realised that that sheet metal float box was hollow and the top was split open at the seam. So, I put too much time and money into the project to keep the float water tight when all along, the float was bad. It has been since filled with expansion foam.


Walldog fastener used....the'll allow you to pretty much hang anything from steel stud...in this case, a sheet metal box
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The clip was something to the affect of this....
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...but packaged as individual clips. I couldn't find them on HDs website, but they do have them in the stores per each.
 
My buddy wants to give a similar boat but I can't find any numbers on the boat and he's never registered it and the sticker says it was last registered in 95 probably 3 owners ago. My question is did you have any trouble registering yours
 

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