Salty Dawg's 1956 15' alumacraft conversion to a flats boat

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Salty Dawg

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Homosassa, Florida
This is how it looked and what I started with. Yes, I got it cheap, but it had a title. After completely gutting the interior, tightening a lot of rivets, repairing a few bullet holes, and scraping and priming it, I finally had something to work with.

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I built a frame to support a front casting deck that goes from the bow back to the rear edge of the seat (about 60”) and leaving room for a waterproof access hatch.

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[Exterior plywood was cut to fit, glassed on the underside, and then put in place and screwed to the support frame./b]

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Screw heads were countersunk and filled, a facing board was added, and everything glued and sealed with 3M 5200. Finally the deck top was glassed.

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A salvaged console was notched to partially overlap the middle seat in order to give me ample standing room behind it. 1X4 strips were attached to the hull with 5200 where the console would be fastened.

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The console was redone with cut-outs for my VHF and a 12v outlet. I put a mount for the Lowrance HDS-7 from my Sea Hunt on the console shelf so I can use the same unit on both boats.

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A hole was cut and hatch installed in the port side of the rear seat for out of the way tackle storage.

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The entire boat is painted with Pettit Easypoxy in Ice Blue color. I wanted a color that would not heat up in the summer, but also not have the glare of white. The paint was some that I had left over from my 22’ Aquasport project. Rod holders on each side are thru bolted and the bolts ground flush.

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DONE!!!


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flajsh said:
Nice Jon. You fishing flats or fresh.
I fish the nearshore saltwater flats out of Homosassa with this boat. It does everything that I need for this in very shallow water. I have other boats for farther offshore.
 
:WELCOME: to Tinboats Salty Dawg.

I'll be getting a hold of a gps shortly. It would be nice to compare what kind of speeds we are reaching with our F20's. Salty's 56 15'V F20 vs Sixes 65 15'V F20.
 
sixgun86 said:
:WELCOME: to Tinboats Salty Dawg.

I'll be getting a hold of a gps shortly. It would be nice to compare what kind of speeds we are reaching with our F20's. Salty's 56 15'V F20 vs Sixes 65 15'V F20.

Thanks for the welcome.
I elected not to add supports and floorboards in order to keep the weight to a minimum and reduce the draft just a bit as I go into very skinny water to fish..... mostly under a foot. I can get into places that the heavier fiberglass rigs can't. The reduced weight in turn aids speed. I cruise at 25 and top out at 29. I run a 9.25"X11" 4 blade Solas prop, and the motor is raised 1 1/2" without cavitating.


This is one of the thin places that I fish in and catch Seatrout and Redfish.

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Salty Dawg said:
I run a 4 blade Solas prop. I THINK it is about a 10X11, but I'll check for sure tomorrow and edit this post if needed.


I was looking at those Solas's on ebay the other night... How do you like it compared to the factory? Do you remember what it had before? I'm running a factory 9 1/4 x 12.
 
Man I see 3 other boats in the photos, as a poor Ph.D student I'm jealous!
 
Gators5220 said:
Man I see 3 other boats in the photos, as a poor Ph.D student I'm jealous!

That's one of the benefits of modifying an older boat. I took my time, and got most of what I needed either from Ebay or Craigslist. Even the motor was "new/old stock". It didn't matter to me what year it was made, it was still in the box and had the 3 year factory warranty. I was able to make up a boat that I would not have been able to buy new.
 
That's awesome! Love this conversion with the center console.

Is your motor a tiller with a steering set added on? Looks like you've got tiller controls on it too.
 
wihil said:
That's awesome! Love this conversion with the center console.

Is your motor a tiller with a steering set added on? Looks like you've got tiller controls on it too.


Yes, it has a tiller. I got that model because it was the best buy for me at the time, and I used it that way last season. But when I added the console it was just for the steering and to house my electronics. I still use the controls on the motor for throttle and gear shift. Sounds weird, but is easy.

The remote steering was relatively easy. The steps for my my F20 Yamaha were:
1. Remove and discard the quadrant and lever for the steering friction lock. It is not needed with the cable steering.
2. Temporarily remove the cover on the lifting handle / wire tray.
3. Bolt on the "L" shaped bracket for the remote steering connection.
4. Connect the steering linkage to the bracket. then replace the lifting arm cover.

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Hi Salty. Awesome job!!! I may have to steal your design :) How do you use the throttle gear select on the motor while also using the helm? Can you just reach behind and use them while under way? btw, I live up the road a bit in Tallahassee. Small world.
 
kfa4303 said:
Hi Salty. Awesome job!!! I may have to steal your design :) How do you use the throttle gear select on the motor while also using the helm? Can you just reach behind and use them while under way? btw, I live up the road a bit in Tallahassee. Small world.


Right, I just reach behind to change speed or operate the shift controls as if the steering wasn't there. The seat is mounted where I would normally be sitting and operating with the tiller. The throttle, gearshift, electric start, and stop are all still motor mounted on the front within easy reach. The only adjustment was a very slight increase in the throttle tension so it doesn't change when the tiller handle is released.
 
Love what you've done with salty, I myself considered going center consel but decied against it, I might go cc with a little bit larger john boat next time...

As always tight lines, cold beer, and Go Gators!
 
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