1977 Lowe Line 1636 Project

Im another first build! I found your site while looking for used boats during the Spring. You all inspired me to go heavily used (cheap) and restore it. So, I purchased a 1977 Lowe Line 1636 w/ 1976 Mercury 110 9.8 hp. As she stands, runs well with little moisture during test drive at purchase. I just brought it home Sunday, and Im eager to get started. In fact, right after I took the before pics to post to this topic, I started disassembly. Trailer is in great shape, probably just needs a clean-up, and bearing repack. Wiring may need replacing or shorts fixed as the lights are not working now. Transom definitely needs replacing, boat clean-up, and leak test prior to investing money in the beast. The motor runs good, even for a manual start. See the pics below, and I will keep you posted as I progress over the weekend. Hoping for leak test on Sunday.

I would really like to place decking between the bow and first bench, keep the live well, and add decking/storage in the rear. Other than cleaning up and painting the middle bench, any suggestions for storage, etc... within about 8 feet of flooring would be great. I would like to put some side storage units in that area, something similar to a Panfishing Model Jon.

:WELCOME: to Tinboats!

Great choice on buying cheap to restore. Looks like you've got a good project on your hand. My advice would be to keep your seating as low as possible to keep it stable. Looking forward to pics!

sixgun86 said:

WELCOME: to Tinboats!
Great choice on buying cheap to restore. Looks like you've got a good project on your hand. My advice would be to keep your seating as low as possible to keep it stable. Looking forward to pics!

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Thanks for the welcome, Sixgun! Funny, I was just reading this great post Decking-When and when not to by Ben2Go. Since I have a 36, I'm thinking I'll keep my decking between the top of the ribs (sorry i dont know the name of that ridge around the side walls) and floor. I would really like to have a small deck in the bow thats sits level on the second bench forward. Ill try to get some designs on paper to get more feedback.

Alright I am chomping at the bit, and I started stripping down the boat after work, besides removing the seats and front decking for the old trolling motor, I decided to go all in and remove the rotton transom prior to leak test. Now I'm ready to power wash and start replacing the transom. Plan to head down to the wood shop for some 1" marine ply similar to the one i ripped out. Ill add step by step pics as I start replacing the transom as I know thats usually a hot topic of how-to. I hope you all learn something from my successes and mistakes.

Any suggestions or past posts are much appreciated!

So I have cleaned up the boat and trailer, and now I'm ready to start the transom. I need to replace a 52" x 8-3/4 x 1-1/2" board. If I go marine ply I will need to press 3 pieces or I'm thinking about 1 piece of cedar covered in spar urethane. Any suggestions welcome?

I'm also thinking stainless solid rivets and stainless bolts in the longer portions like the brace mount with alittle 5220.

How is the transom work coming along? I've FINALLY just about got mine done. These things are a pain!!!

In the words of Aaron Lewis (Stained) "It's been awhile"! I haven't had much time to work on the beast lately, as "Life" tends to get in the way. So after I cleaned up and removed the transom, I have been spending most of my time getting a plan together and keeping an eye on BigTerp’s transom adventure (BigTerp's Project Plug). I have decided to roll the dice on Solid Cedar after much deliberation with the local "Wood Experts".

I need a 52"x 8-3/4" x 1-1/4" transom for the replacement. The only way I can puzzle a piece together per suggestion would be to glue a ¾" and ½" to get 1-1/4". Only problem is parting with the money for the 8' x 4' x ½" Marine Ply ($72) and 8' x 4' x ¾" Marine Ply ($82). So Solid Cedar it is with Spar Varnish!

Here's what I ended up purchasing for my transom fun:

• 8' x 10" x 1-1/2" Solid Cedar

• Qt. Can Rustoleum Spar Varnish

• Cheap Paint Brush

• 120 Grain Sandpaper

• Acetone

• Rustoleum Self Etching Primer

• SS Bolts, SS Washers, and SS Nuts

• 3M 5200 Marine Sealant (Thanks Home Depot!)

• 3/16" Brazier Head 1100F Solid Aluminum Rivets (on order)

• Red LocTite (a little dab will do ya!)

Let the fun begin!

That big piece of solid cedar should be nice and sturdy. Let the fun begin is right!! I never thought a transom swap would be so time consuming. Let me know if you come up with any rivet bucking tips. I'll get to start replacing rivets sometime next week. Keep the pictures coming man, looking forward to seeing what ideas you come up with.

Jackpot! Look what the dog dragged in... Solid Aluminum Rivets!

Now I'm ready to start busting *** on this boat transom this weekend.

As a good friend once told me, "Nothing is ever easy".

So I got a few things started this weekend and ran into a few problems. First I started on the transom by getting my piece cut using the old transom as a template. I was really moving along nicely manuvering the multi-angle cuts, and started belt sanding with 80 gr on the rough cedar then moving to 120 gr with a hand sander.





So just for kicks I decided to try squeezing the new transom into place. Here comes problem #1. The existing brace will not bend out of the way enough to slide in the solid cedar.



Looks like Im going to drill out the old rivets for the brace, and set the transom, and replace the brace with new rivets and a little 5200. Atleast I know tese four rivets will be newly sealed and not stressed causing potential leaks if I tried to bend it out of the way.

So heres problem #2. As I prepare to sit and wait on multiple coats of spar varnish to dry, I thought I would start sanding and prepping the boat for paint. So the first thing I run into is a hunk of rusty angle iron used to support a bow handle which is being used as a point to click the trailer strap too.



So I removed and wire brushed to find a stress point on the aluminum. Its not cracked/broken completely through but definitely stressed.




Im thinking about using some aluminum flat bar and making 2 washers that span each hole, one for inside and outside the boat sandwiching the aluminum to relieve some of the stress from the handle. Ill give it a whirl tomorrow after work but if you all have any suggestions please let me know.

Nice work man. Those are some LONG rivets!! I'm assumming your riveting the new transom in place?

BigTerp said:

Those are some LONG rivets!! I'm assumming your riveting the new transom in place?

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Yes and no. The cheapest place to buy rivets ($7.62 vs. $.35-$.45 each) only sold their packs in bulk (smallest 100). So I bought the largest size I needed in certain spots (transom) 2" and I will cut down the rivet in other spots to size, like 3/8", 1/2" etc... I really only needed 30 rivets of various sizes total, so now I have extra for future enhancements or leaky rivets which im bound to come across.

That's a smart move on the rivets. Rivet cutters aren't very expensive either.

had any fun with those rivets yet?

Its Alive!



I figure it's about time to resurrect this post off the disabled list. I have almost navigated through the hell of selling my home. I now have time to get this transom and rivets back in the boat for late spring. Today its sanding and primer.

So yesterday I'm cleaning out the garage and waiting on my transom Valspar to dry. I decided to start multi-tasking by firing up the motor. So I put together this motor stand out of left over lumber.

Well she cranked up just fine, everything seemed to be in good shape. I noticed the longer it idled, the exhaust appeared more oily or rich. I placed a topic out on Motors - Mercury Rejuvenate Engine Oil to get some suggestions about fuel additives. Hopefully a fresh batch of 2-cycle and some Sea Foam will do the trick.

You know the saying, "Stop while your ahead" or "Don't over do it". Well I threw caution into the wind and I decided to clean all the years of gunk off the ole Atwood Gas tank. And "SNAP!" I break off the plastic stem from the fuel line connector. Well the silver lining in this... it must have been weak and I'm glad it didn't snap off during a fishing trip, miles from dock.

panFried said:

You know the saying, "Stop while your ahead" or "Don't over do it". Well I threw caution into the wind and I decided to clean all the years of gunk off the ole Atwood Gas tank. And "SNAP!" I break off the plastic stem from the fuel line connector. Well the silver lining in this... it must have been weak and I'm glad it didn't snap off during a fishing trip, miles from dock.

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It's always something man!! Glad to see your getting back after it. I've been super busy lately and not able to get much done to mine. Finally getting back on the ball though. Looking forward to your progress.