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Fisheral87

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Hello All,

I have been looking around the site the past few weeks in anticipation of buying this boat. It has a few issues to fix and hopefully with your help I can make it look half as good as some of the projects on here.
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I'll be removing both seats for an open floor plan.
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The transom wood needs replacing, any suggestions on how to reinforce it further?
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The front deck is pretty banged up. I was thinking of tearing it out and putting in a new one. Does anyone know if the ribs continue under the floor or will I be sacrificing the strength of the hill by removing the floor?
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Where the motor is attached the fold in the aluminum over the wood is beginning to separate there is also a weld spot on either wide of the transom that has begun to come apart?

Thanks in advance.



Al
 
Last night I pulled the motor and then ripped off the old wood from the transom and pulled the brace. All the hardware was pretty rusted and a lot of the bolts I had to drill out.

There are way more holes than I anticipated that had been previously JB welded. I am just going to run bolts and 5200 for all of them to also try and give the transom as much strength as possible. I am a bit frustrated as there is a brace on each end of the transom i did not consider that are not going to allow me to to set a new piece of wood without taking one off and re-riveting or bolting it, i am already doing a bunch so i may go that route.

My father in law suggested jointing the plywood?

I am going to epoxy the plywood, any tips or trick for this process?

Al
 

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man those are the things you run into with an old boat. i cant comment on whats under the front deck. i would be willing to bet that there are some under there, maybe two.

looks like youve had some well meant but poorly executed repairs in the other areas you point out.

i would not make the transom out of 2 pieces- not sure how long you plan to keep the boat but it will not last. what exactly is keeping you from putting in a full piece? i read your description but its tough to imagine exactly what you are talking about. do you mean the gussets that triangulate the top of the gunwale to the transom are keeping you from dropping in a piece of wood from the top?
 
There are two braces riveted on either side under the corners.

I think I'll end up drilling one side out and bolting it back in.

Better pics,
 

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I have the 1960 18' version of this boat, Ive owned it about 8 months, I would be very interested in how yoru finished product turns out. I also tore out the rotten wood on my transom and replaced it with a piece of treated 2 x 12.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332008#p332008 said:
Fisheral87 » Yesterday, 22:44[/url]"]There are two braces riveted on either side under the corners.

I think I'll end up drilling one side out and bolting it back in.

Better pics,
well the wood doesnt have to go from the transom cap to the floor, in fact its not supposed to. i still think you should be able to sneak in a single piece as wide as the gunwale but shorter than the transom, without cutting any metal off. again i may be missing something but im 90% sure you can do it.
 
I hear you.

One concern I have is that cutting it too short will not give me enough lower support for the outboard. I could leave it longer in the middle...

I also considered cutting both of the brackets off and leaving the riveted portion attached. I don't see what I am gaining from them being attached? Perhaps they are more supportive than they appear.

I appreciate the the input very much. This is only my second aluminum boat project. The first was much less complicated.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332064#p332064 said:
Fisheral87 » Today, 15:46[/url]"]I hear you.

One concern I have is that cutting it too short will not give me enough lower support for the outboard. I could leave it longer in the middle...
remember you have that buttress that will transfer any torque the engine wants to make to the hull. its not just the transom taking the load.

I also considered cutting both of the brackets off and leaving the riveted portion attached. I don't see what I am gaining from them being attached? Perhaps they are more supportive than they appear.

I appreciate the the input very much. This is only my second aluminum boat project. The first was much less complicated.
NOW i see what youre talking about. yes those are in a pistol of a spot. they provide a means of mechanically joining the transom wood to your gunwale and in turn to the rest of the boat. i would drill the rivets out and put the brackets back when you put the new transom wood in. solid rivets are extremely easy and cheap to work with, but you will probably have to order them.
 
My concern with the motor is that it has bowed the transom due to,

1. The lack of a quality transom
2. Removal of the aluminum at the top center of the transom

Any suggestions on rivet guns? :D
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332098#p332098 said:
Fisheral87 » Today, 00:00[/url]"]My concern with the motor is that it has bowed the transom due to,

1. The lack of a quality transom
2. Removal of the aluminum at the top center of the transom

Any suggestions on rivet guns? :D
id use solid rivets, not blind for that part of the boat since youre going through the hull- just need 2 hammers basically

aluminum brazier head solid rivet:
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i did mine with a 4 lb engineer hammer
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and a ball peen
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you hold the engineer hammer head solidly against the machined (mushroomed) head, then whack the shank with the flat end of the ball peen a few times. it will start to flatten out. the rule of thumb is that it must flatten to be 150% of its original shank diameter, so if you use a 3/16 (.188) rivet your shank needs to grow to 9/32 (.281). i ended up using a 1/4-20 flat washer (which has a .281 clearance) as a fit gauge, if the washer fit over the shank i needed to flatten it more. once its squashed adequately you can flip your ball peen hammer over and peen out the shank. its very quick and easy, just a little noisy. theres all kinds of special tools you can purchase but for this type of job its not totally necessary.
 
I need to wait to get paid before I can buy rivets and paint and aircraft stripper.

Tonight I drilled out the one side brace in order to get the transom wood in.

After trying to flatten out the bolt holes on the transom the aluminum cracked between the two mounting holes. I figured JB weld it or get an aluminum plate to reinforce this.

I need to put a bit of thought into the front. Any ideas?
 

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Pulled the seat out and pressure washed. The paint wouldn't budge so getting some aircraft stripper to apply this weekend.

Rivets on order.
 

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This will be a great boat for you! If you want some solid aluminum rivets to use on the angle brackets pm me your name and mailing info. I have a pound of them that will take me the next 40 years to burn up. I would be happy to mail you a handful.
 
Mtydg,

Thank you very much for the offer. I just ordered a bunch and I also have an in with an engineering company that set me up pretty well.

The front of this boat has me a little worried, I don't have a plan yet.

I also need to search out a lower cost option for primer/paint. Those boat only stores seem really high priced? I am a cheap SOB though. :LOL2:
 
I hunted elk last weekend but managed to sand the rest of the bottom. This morning I got the primer on and plan to paint tomorrow. I am enlisting a couple buddies to get the inside sanded and prepped and the riveting done.

Included my elk as well.
 

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Decided not to replace either of the seats. The open floor plan is going to give me a lot more flexibility for rod/gun/general storage. The riveting worked really well, the only down side of hammering them in is the heads get squashed a bit. Finished up the paint job, i used Parker "sand tan" color and I'm really happy with my choice. I just need bolt the transom back in, rivet the supports/braces back in and mount the motor.
 

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Finished up the paint and bolted the new transom back in. Bolting took forever as there were numerous holes and I had to put two new ones in to properly attach the outboard. A small fortune in paint and hardware work out though, the transome is significantly more stable. I ended up not treating the marine plywood with anything due to budget constraints. I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Surprising how well these boats age, for a 1959 model she still look pretty solid.
 

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Couple more pics tonight of the layout.

I have a Suzuki DF25. I reinstalled it and headed out for a test run last Sunday. Boat was in the water, all the gear, dog, ready to go. The motor won't start. Misery. I get back to the house and test everything I can think of, no dice. For three days I stressed over the **** thing. Last night I found one obscure forum post on a df30 that a guy mentioned the fuse in a little white box on the port side of the motor. Sure enough, one 20 amp fuse and she is back in action. Just in time for our first real cold snap of the year.
 

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