16ft 1968 Terry Bass Boss river/flats slayer in the making

ALCON,
Here goes my first ever aluminum boat build. I can tell by reading through this site I'm going to get and need a lot of help. See photos below and keep in mind I'm going for a center console, a livewell, a poling platform, sponsons from beavertail, and a CMC mini jacker with mariner short shaft 50hp. Ill post pics as I can. I have a newborn so mama doesn't let me get 3-10 hrs alone to fab and build. I picked this package up for 800 bucks!!

Cool boat, I look forward to watching your progress.

Im back now that Christmas is over! I just received my beavertail float pods and will have them installed 17JAN! Im purchasing a micro jack plate for 90hp and below. Any threads on how to install this? Or even though my transom seems solid should I have a new one installed made of aluminum to hold the 50hp short shaft mariner 2 stroke? Ill post pics later. Thanks for any and all replies!

Here are some pics I took last night demo'ing the back deck. I want to get to the floor clean it, fix any issues, foam it, then replace the wood flooring. Also, previous owner rolled the floor with deck redo and noe I can find where the screws are to the aluminum ribs. Any idea how to rip up the floor w/o damaging the boat? I was going to strip the redo and then go from there......

I was wondering if I could take out the "sides" the gunwales perhaps, anyway the foam filled sheet metal? Im assuming nthis is not structural and with it out I get more walk around room. Any suggestions on this?

Last few are of the transom. Seems sturdy to me however I wanted opinions from the group. Im going with a CMC Mini Jacker and 50 HP Short shaft MAriner and wanted to know if that looks like its G2G or should I rip it out and replace with welded aluminum at the same time I have the float pods welded on?

Thanks for looking and with any and all replies.

Nice looking boat. =D> =D>

I can't tell the shape of your transom from the pics, but I'd make for sure it was solid while your in this phase of the remodel, much tougher to do when you have everything completed.

Made some progress! My wife gave me some uninterupted time in the garage. So I yanked out the rest of the flooring as I wanted to see 2 things. Was there any foam and were the ribs solid. Foam was there but now its gone as I will replace with all new. AND... the ribs are cracked so I sanded them down to prep for welding repair.

Question: What does everyone clean out their hull with? Acetone? Soap and Scrub? Pressure washer?

I have some Acetone and was thinking of pouring it in, scrubbing and draining.

Question 2: Do I need an aluminum or steel rated drill bit to remove the rivets from the foam filed gunnels on the sides?

More demo today. All electrical wiring was 2nd rate at best so all of that will be removed as well. Then its off to the welder!

I never received any guidance so I went at it blindly. picked up some RIGID metal rated bits, drill out the rivets and removed the sides and styrofoam. Not to difficult. Sanded down the cracked ribs. Took a flat head screwdriver to the deck restore and found the screws and removed the remainder of the decking. Took the boat to the welder today to fill in all holes in ribs and weld all cracks. Plus, I'm having my small beavertail float pods welded on!! I cant wait to get it back and begin the fab process for the new decking. I think Ill go with square tube instead of 2x2's this time. Looks like Ill be purchasing a rivet gun to fabricate all that. Ill post photos later when I get it back.

Next to order is the mini jacker hydraulic jack plate! Ill def need guidance wiring that, the motor, the lights, etc. Hope someone gets interested in this thread who can help me out. See ya'll when she gets back from the welder!

Correction: After much work on the hull I noticed this is a 1978 boat.Not 1968. Good for me I guess.

I kept wondering about the transom so........here goes the demo on that.. Ill figure out a new one soon. Any ideas?

Got my pods from beavertail in and welded on!!

Im thinking sheet of aluminum on the stern outside and inside with a new transom placed and welded in. Thoughts?

Good morning,

I’m not sure I total understand what you mean by “New aluminum sheet on the stern outside”
You could put a square piece of 0.90 just slightly bigger than the dimensions of your jackplate in between the outside of the transom and the jackplate.

I don’t know that I would add sheet aluminum to the whole outside of the transom. As long as the existing “backside, or outside “of the transom is in good shape it’s just overkill. I would put a “light” coat of resin on the wood core and then sandwich it in between 2 pieces of 0.90 aluminum.
Looks like you could make your transom as thick as you wanted it without any interference issue but don’t make it to thick.

Even though the motor you’re going to run is going to be just about 200lbs, no sense in adding unnecessary weight to the stern.
The float pods are worth their weight in gold IMHO, never the less no sense in adding weight when you don’t need it. I built the chit out of my transom because lots of ponies and my motor weighs twice was yours does.

Dave thanks for the info: What I meant was I was going to use sheet metal where you said, at the mount site of the jack plate. Then I was going to go on the inside of the boat and weld another sheet of of metal over the complete wood transom with a diagonal down support to the florr to beef up the strength of the weight. I simetimes operate in an overkill mindset!

However, what should I use for the "new" wood transom? Laminate plywood together? One single piece of some type of "block" wood?

I would laminate 2 pieces of exterior ply and seal em up for the transom.

Country DAve,
I got an "in" on some .18 aluminum forthe transom: 4X10 sheet for $170.00 bucks. Is .18 to thick or should I get it and proceed?

RLK79 said:

Country DAve,
I got an "in" on some .18 aluminum forthe transom: 4X10 sheet for $170.00 bucks. Is .18 to thick or should I get it and proceed?

Click to expand...

18 gauge?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341359#p341359 said:

smackdaddy53 » Today, 20:33[/url]"]

RLK79 said:

Country DAve,
I got an "in" on some .18 aluminum forthe transom: 4X10 sheet for $170.00 bucks. Is .18 to thick or should I get it and proceed?

Click to expand...

18 gauge?

Click to expand...

Smackdaddy,
Im not sure but ill find out tomorrow when I buy it. All I know is he said twice as thick as .090. Better price if I buy with cash!

Here are some pics of the transom....It just kept eating at me to be content with it so out it goes. I cut the cap off, sawzaw'd the rivets, skill saw around the splash drain (by the way wood blades can cut metal) and out she went. I used a 60 grit sanding wheel on the interior and the exterior of the stern and she cleaned up real nice!
Note: I put the pods on first. I know, stupid, but Ithought the transom was good (did I mention this is my first build/demo). As I said previously, to myself, I can find money quicker than I can find time to work and fab so that being said the boat is at Fish on Fabricators in Cartersville GA receiving a new welded aluminum transom!! I received the Atlas Micro Jack today and will be driving that to the boat shop to have installed. Ordered my steelflex superslick today so when I get the boat back I can flip her over and redo the hull. Im getting closer to a water test everyday!
Ill post pics of transom and jackplate as I can get them. Uncle Sam keeps me busy and gone so i've had to outsource some work As Long as I can fish at some poiint this spring how I get there doesnt mattter to much to me!

I would use 2 3/4" plys fiberglassed together, or pour it solid.