Pletzy's 1991 Sylvan Sea Snapper V-Bottom Mod

Oh geez, second post ever - hope i did this right...

Hey folks. I bought a 1991 Sylvan Sea Snapper this past summer off a buddy. I went fishing with it for a week and realized that it needed some SERIOUS work. The Mercury 15hp 2 stroke took about 15 yanks to fire, then you had to wind her right out to get it to move without crapping out. I was 'that guy' at the docks... I've never been 'that guy.' Also, it was bare bones - no fish finder, no trolling motor, no floor, no downriggers. I had to rely on my years of fishing skill to find the fish (hahaha, ya right). I need the electronics yo! My trolling motor was a set of oars... you kidding me?!
Well, here it is:
So I have decided that the Snapper is going to be converted into a fishing machine... no more messing around. My plans for this boat will be very basic. I also hope to be as detailed as possible during my build, especially for the electrical work. One thing I won't have is a final bill for the build... I feel as though a piece of me dies every time I swipe my debit card. Although, I know it will be worth it in the end. And I hope my wife thinks so too.
I have already fixed up the motor prior to my build. Cost me $200 for a brand new water pump rebuild kit, carb kit and reed valves. I learned a heck of a lot about outboards from this site, so thanks to all who have contributed. Probably would've cost me my left arm if I had somebody else fix it. Fired it up in the driveway in a bucket before the snow dumped, and she runs like a brand new motor. Built a motor stand for it and it's now stored in my basement.
I just started my build today, but I'd like to post my plans and some of the materials first. Enjoy!

That's a nice boat there. Nothing like a blank canvas. Glad you got the motor running good.

So here are my plans for the layout of the boat:
It will be designed so that myself and another person can fish comfortably, with plenty of space to maneuver. We troll a lot when we fish, so it is critical that any one person can access the middle of the boat where my downriggers will be mounted.
The floor will be as low as I can build it. Reason is that we fish some pretty big lakes, and when the wind whips up, I don't want anybody losing their balance and ending up in the drink. I chose to use wood for the framing. My hope is that I can remove a whole section of the deck between the bench seat if needed, so I don't want to secure it to the boat. It will rest on the bracing of the boat. I plan to use Bluewood (rot, mildew resistant) where I can, and waterproof everything with a brush-on liquid as opposed to fiberglass which should save some weight.
I bought 2 seats, which will be mounted to a 2" plastic swivel base that has a quick release for the seat to be removed when towing the boat. I don't want the seats sitting up very high as well. Also, I have a couple cup holders for bee- ... i mean drinks, like coffee or something. I'm planning on carpeting the whole thing; I found an outdoor carpet swatch from Lowes that is rubber backed with a very low pile so it'll be tough to get a hook jammed in it. Here's a pic of some of the stuff that I picked up:
Electrical:
I have a Minn Kota 38lb thrust trolling motor (also came with a minn kota charger too, bonus!), a Garmin Echo fishfinder, LED navigation lights, LED anchor light and 2 LED courtesy rail lights. We also fish at night, so I wanted some LEDs mounted near the floor of the boat so you can see what you're doing when tying a knot or netting a fish. We had an accident a few years back where a dirty hammerhandle pike managed to flip a hook into a buddy's thumb - and it was none too happy about being out of the water. Part of the problem was not being able to see the fish. I picked up a voltmeter for $12 from princess auto which will be mounted into my switch box (using a 6x6 plastic junction box with a watertight seal from home depot) along with 3 rocker switches (on/off/on for nav lights and 2 on/offs for the courtesy lights) and a simple switch to power the voltmeter so current isn't always running through the meter. I decided against using a pre-made switch panel since my accessories are mostly less than 1 amp draw. The circuit breaker switch panels have pretty large breakers (5/10/15 amps) which is overkill for what I need. The fused panels seemed to get the odd bad review on the bass pro website, so I figured i'll make my own. I picked up a basic blade 6 gang fuse panel with a ground buss (pictured above) so I can use the correct fuses for the amp draw. The fishfinder came with an inline fuse, however I'm going to attach it to my fuse panel and ground, and it will NOT have a switch. The unit has its own power control.
My battery is a 12V group 27 Deep Cycle wallymart special. It will be placed as close to the middle of the boat as possible. My diagram at the very top shows a trapezoid storage area in front of the bench seat. I haven't decided if I want to mount the switch box into the battery box yet, so that may call for me moving the battery box on the side closest to the stern of the boat... or keep it furthest from the stern to level out the weight. Any opinions?
Since i'm only using one battery, It will need to be removed fairly quickly for charging. There will only be two lines leaving the battery - the main cable headed to a 30amp breaker headed to the fuse panel, and a set of 10ga booster cables attached to my trolling motor (equipped with a 50amp breaker at the battery). Here is my schematic. Holy crapskies is it confusing, but if you can follow it, great. I'm a visual kind of person, so I had to put everything where it goes. Ok, as for the wiring, I bought 16ga primary wire to use everywhere except for the main battery lines (which will be 10ga). It's not tinned :O Why? Cost. I don't plan on keeping this boat for the rest of my life. It sits indoors and is used for day-long outings or may sit in the water for a max of 1 week. The wiring may be exposed to some water, but I will take the extra care to ensure all connections are shrink wrapped and liquid electrical taped. You may notice there's no Bilge pump... that may be a future endeavour. For now, I bought a hand pump that should take care of business.
Hopefully everything looks good and I won't start any fires. If anything looks out of place, let me know. But go easy on me, i'm a desk/office guy, not an electrician.

Spent a good chunk of saturday in my garage working on the frame for my floor. Thank goodness for heaters, yikes! Here is what I accomplished:The back of the boat is relatively flat, so I used 2x6's (x3) and 2x2's (x2), all resting on the floor of the boat. I used 2 5/8" pieces of plywood to join it all together, and to bring the backing of the floor high enough to cover the gap where the bench seat begins. I shot for 12" centres in between joists, however I figure I could still get away with 14-16" centres if needed. I used a couple of 1x2's as cross braces just to be sure. I had to cut the 2x6's at an angle to ensure that the floor is level. I also brought up the centre joist about 1/4" higher than the others so that rain will runoff to the side of the floor, not pool in the middle. Here's a pic of the angle... the structure is sitting pretty high - I didn't want to jam it in before it's all finished: I coated the whole structure in a waterproof resin and it's sitting to dry. I think i'll use a router bit to round off the edges that meet the bench seats. Still gotta cut the rubber mat which will act as a non-slip/noise dampener between the bottom of the boat and the wood.
I started on my DIY switch panel as well. Once finished, my next post will be a little 'how to' for those who want to make their own.

Here's the last of my work from the weekend. Made a homemade switch box using a waterproof plastic electrical box ($20), 2 waterproof on/off rocker switches ($10 each), 1 on/off/on waterproof rocker switch ($13), a voltmeter ($12) and a basic on/off switch with rubber cover ($5). After all is said and done, It works out to be a bit more $ than the pre-fabbed switch panels, but I know that this one will last. And I have the option to add more switches if needed.
First, I cut out a cardboard template and traced out what I wanted I used the inside of the cover to make sure I didn't cut into the waterproofing or the sides. I made all the cuts from the inside of the cover. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut out the switches, but since the wheel was too large for the smaller cuts, I quickly found that drilling it out and using a variable speed jigsaw worked much better. I used a hole saw to cut out the voltmeter spot. Most cuts were much smaller than the switch, so I filed the sides down until the switch fit. Everything fits nice and looks good enough.

Wow, that was a solid 1 month hiatus. Got back to work - got the middle section framing completed and ready for the floor. I put some rubber backing where the wood makes contact with the boat frame to absorb a bit of shock. Also got my LED nav and anchor lights installed. The Anchor light folds down, cause there's nothing worse than fighting a fish with the anchor light in the way. Still has to be wired. Lastly, I pulled the old rod holders off which were plywood coated with a sealant. I used pine to replace the plywood and will coat it with a good slather of paint. I used a router for a nice soft edge and will be rigging these up to hold 3 rods each instead of 2.

Very cool! Also very well planed out too!! I know you said that that you were not going to use a bilge pump. I wound up in a situation where my plug came out ( got it back in once I found it ) all I can say it's hard to bail or use a hand pump when water is coming in fast. I know you said you were going to fish some big water and an investment for a bilge pump is minimal when compared to boat recovery/gear loss. :LOL2: Just yesterday I was at Wally World and saw a 500gph bilge pump for about $20. I know every dollar adds up but I consider a bilge pump a must have. I know you already have a switch panel made but here's an idea attach extra wire to the pump and have alligator clips; keep it stashed with the hand pump; when needed hook it up and toss a hose over the side. Just want you to stay afloat and not swamped.

@ccm, you got me thinking... I agree... I need a bilge pump!! I found one for $21 (600gph) which isnt much of an investment. I like the alligator clip idea too! I think that if i go with a pump, better go hard and wire it in to the fuse panel with a switch. Thanks for the insight!

Looking good! I just bought the exact same boat that has a 87 25/35 Evinrude.
I will be doing a mod soon Keep up the post I am interested.

Got a bit of free time this week, picked up some rubber backed outdoor carpet from Lowes, about $8.50/ft on a 12' roll. I carpeted the walls of the floor structure as it covers up the open space under the seats. I have the second structure finished for the middle of the boat, but still need to waterproof it and build my battery box. I will post pics prior to the floor going on/battery box built so you can see what it looks like. The back floor fit in perfectly, and the rubber keeps it from moving around. Looks good I think. Doesn't add much weight either. Also, screwed in the 600gph bilge pump that I just bought ($21). I'm going to keep a small rubber hose in one of the storage compartments, so if needed, I can just hook it up and throw the hose over the side of the boat.

I have a v-bottom boat also.Your giving me some great ideas down here in Georgia.

Got the middle section completed. Fits like a glove as well!My waterproof plano box fits perfectly! The battery tray shows where the battery will be stored, which will also be enclosed in plywood with a lid. Both sections are ready to be decked, but first need to wire everything. I realized that I could put another storage area in the back section, so I added a couple of 2x4 pieces to put a hatch over. Might be nice to store downrigger cannonballs or something small.Got my rod holders finished and even tested them out to see if everything fits ok.I probably won't ever have 6 rods in my boat, but it's handy to have and to keep everything out of the way.

Woke up early this morning to get in a few hours of work. My dad showed up with coffee and helped too. Last week, my wife's cousin welded me up a bracket for the front. It's bolted on where the trailer clip goes at the front of the boat. Cost me $20 and a six pack of tall boy brown trouts.It is very solid and doesn't bend unless hammered. Bolted it in and re-sealed with 3M 5200.
Got started on the bow floor. I used a 2x2 with a bunch of deck screws, but quickly realized it was not sturdy enough. So we cut a smaller section that rests on the floor and secured smaller pieces to withstand some weight. Cut the 2x4 sections, but haven't got around to fastening everything together yet. Needed to make sure everything would be flush for when the 5/8 plywood goes on top.Weather was nice this morning, so got around to cutting out the floor sections using a cardboard template. Lastly, we cut a section to go over the stern bench. After making my rod holders, I thought there may be potential to break them. I needed a way to get them out in case they need to be replaced. The bolt holes sit lower than the 5/8 ply, so we left 1/2" on either side to be able to sit a wrench and a screwdriver to take the bolts out. The plywood will be notched where the bolts go, and the carpet will lay over the notches. You'll never notice the notches (not cut yet in the picture)... but if you wedged a screwdriver in on an angle, you'll be able to get in there.

Got the bow structure finished. Used hurricane ties as extra reinforcement. Stood on it, and it's very solid. The wood is screwed into the front metal bracket using anchor bolts.

Got started on mounting my fish finder transducer to the transom. Ripped out and picked up a poly cutting board ($5) and some SS nuts/bolts ($7 ). Yes, Poly can be cut using a jigsaw - worked pretty well. I borrowed the idea from many on this site who popped 4 holes in the transom, rather than a bunch of permanent holes when trying to fix a transducer problem. Only thing is I mounted it upside down, the rounded edges were supposed to be at the top. Oh well, nobody will notice when it's underwater. I stuck it on using 5200 and ran a bead around the edge.I also got the front deck cut from 5/8 plywood. I rough cut the hatches in all 3 decks by cutting a small hole big enough to put my hand through to trace the edge of the hatches. I will have to measure up a nice square about an extra 1" outward so that they will rest on the structure.

Lookin good so far man! =D> =D>

@Gators5220 - thanks bru! I appreciate it!
I'm in overdrive on the Snapper lately... Time is ticking for the season opener. It's flippin' April!!
Worked on my battery box today as it needs to get done before wiring. The framing is made from 2x2's and the exterior is 5/8 plywood. Everything doesn't look square in the photos, but they will be once attached.I tried to get the 2x2's as close to the battery tray as I possibly could. The 2x2's will give enough space between the battery and the 5/8 plywood walls to mount the fuse block and circuit breakers. I picked up some of that Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane ($22)to coat my plywood. I figured that the waterproofing stuff that I previously used might not hold the carpet glue well.

Battery box carpeted and lid/seat for the middle bench cut.

Wanted to make the bottom of the hatches look cool, so I spray painted the G. Loomis logo on it. What a beauty logo. Made a cardstock template, cut it out with a blade, taped it on and have at 'er. Also started to run the wire in the boat. This has been the most time consuming part of my build - figuring out where everything goes. My advice to you is to keep your wiring diagram beside you at all times. Also, get a decent wire fish - this has saved me many headaches. Oh, and also make sure you label EVERY wire end. There may have been a few cuss words thrown around in the garage today. There's no bigger PITA than having to re-fish your wire and realize you cut it too short. BRUTAL. I used crimp style butt connectors to hook up each device with a tube of heat shrink. I will also coat each connection in liquid electrical tape. Got 1 of my LEDs mounted to the middle bench seat. The second will be mounted to the bottom of the battery box. I also cut out the sheet metal where my waterproof switch box will go. I drilled a pilot hole big enough to fit a metal jigsaw blade in and cut away. Had to scrape out a bit of foam too. Here's a pic.

I've always enjoyed the snapper!...Nice work