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buzzbarto

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Another new guy here. Been stalking the site for quite a while. Finally got a boat to mod. It's a 16' Alumacraft. Title says MV Tex 20" is the model. Somebody Cut the transom down to 17". And they didn't do a very neat job, but at least it's centered and reinforced. I'm looking to put a new floor in it, extend and reinforce the front deck and cover the rear and put a pedestal base back there for a fishing partner. Also would like a permanent livewell. Been toying with the idea of putting a side or center console vs. a tiller. It had a 25 hp merc but I was told the crankshaft splines are no longer there!

16' Alumacraft Original.jpg
 
Started removing the floor. The styrofoam is waterlogged. Didn't realize that could happen. The carpet came up easily. The plywood on the other hand is a different story. They used stainless self tappers, 6 per rib. Most of them held great. Having to slot quite a few with a dremel and use a big flat screwdriver to remove them. I will probably go with the pink foam insulation between the ribs like I've seen lots of guys on here do and aluminum for the floor. Topped with some type of truck bed liner roll on stuff. Any suggestions as to what thickness aluminum to use? I'm thinking about painting the boat a tan color or tan camo of some sort and the floor/decks a dark brown.
792014II.jpg
 
Is your floor flat? it looks to have a slight V to it. If you can back the foam up to the backside of the flooring you can get away with 1/16" aluminum, but if you're going to add framing to flatten out the floor (and end up with unsupported spans of flooring) you'd be better off with 1/8"
 
It's got a V to it. I'm going to make a subframe for a flat floor. Maybe high enough to run line for a live well up front. I think if I bring the floor up to the bottom of the side panels it should give me just enough space. And I want to cut out the front deck, leaving a couple inches all around to affix a new deck to. Getting rid of all the rotten Styrofoam and wood under it. I'll use aluminum angle to make a new frame for it. And the front deck wiil be extended back to where the side panels start. This will give me enough room for a live well at the rear, my pedestal base just ahead of that, thenstorage ahead of the pedestal and on each side.
 
What's the best way to cut aluminum angle? Do they have a compound sliding miter chopsaw? Lol
 
At the hours I'm free to work on the boat...hacksaw...too late for power tools. Though a jigsaw works nicely too.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=358999#p358999 said:
buzzbarto » Today, 19:05[/url]"]What's the best way to cut aluminum angle? Do they have a compound sliding miter chopsaw? Lol

You can cut nonferrous metals with a chop saw and a table saw. It's clean and precise and beats the alternatives. If you have a 10" blade, a 60 tooth triple chip blade would be best. Be absolutely certain to wear full-face protection and it's kind of loud so ear protection is good too.
 
I've got the aluminum angle ordered and should be here Monday. Any suggestions on rivets, bolts or screws to hold it all together? I'd love to weld it but that's out of the question for now. Nothing will go through the hull. I plan on riveting the aluminum floor down to the angle, but as far as the angle to angle connections, and angle to rib connections I'm wondering if rivets wouldn't be best. I'm starting on stripping the old paint off the trailer tonight. Then paint and new hardware.
 
I used aluminum rivets with a steel mandrel - it worked well for the framing, but on my trolling motor mount the rivets sheered off so I'm replacing them with stainless rivets.

I'd get 50 stainless rivets just to be safe and use one anywhere you'll have a sheer load bearing on the rivet.
 
Got all the stuff off the trailer. Need to strip some old paint then on with the new.
 
What do you think about this to fab a livewell from

https://www.ruralking.com/agriculture/tractor-parts-accessories/spraying/tanks-accessories/ace-roto-mold-45-gallon-rectangle-utility-tank-sp0045-as.html

I'm going to mount it, or something similar, underneath the front deck extension and use a Cabelas custom hatch to access it. The pump and drain will be at the rear through the transom with an overflow through the side of the boat. Any thoughts?
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360360#p360360 said:
buzzbarto » 21 Jul 2014, 14:57[/url]"]What do you think about this to fab a livewell from

https://www.ruralking.com/agriculture/tractor-parts-accessories/spraying/tanks-accessories/ace-roto-mold-45-gallon-rectangle-utility-tank-sp0045-as.html

I'm going to mount it, or something similar, underneath the front deck extension and use a Cabelas custom hatch to access it. The pump and drain will be at the rear through the transom with an overflow through the side of the boat. Any thoughts?

It could work but there is a lot of extra fab work involved. You can buy a 100 - 150qt cooler for a similar at sometimes a lot less in price plus it's already insulated. I know that we bought our Igloo 150qt for $88 at wally world. It has a nice heavy duty lid with an access hatch on one side. It doesn't look like it would be to hard to turn into a nice livewell.
 
Got most of the trailer painted. Will do the tongue and fenders tonight then put it all back together when it dries. Then run new wire for the lights and the bolster brackets should be in Thursday. Need to get some bunk carpet and boards have new stainless hardware and staples. Hopefully I'll have it all back together this weekend and I'll start sanding the hull and get that repainted. Then I can put the boat back on the trailer and start the interior work. Bass tourney this Saturday so that may slow me down a bit. Caught this guy in last weeks tourney.

Musky 7202014.jpg
 
Fish of 1,000 casts - and a beauty at that.

As far as your tank idea - trying to work through a 5" opening is going to be a PITA, but if I understood you correctly you'd be hacking open the top and accessing it with a Cabela's hatch - so no biggie. As far as insulating it you could get the expanding marine urethane if it's going to be a permanent fixture.

My only other concern would be are the side / bottom surfaces flat or curved slightly? Getting a well sealed mounting for the drain and circulating pumps could be an issue.
 
For whatever it's worth I made mine from 1/8" PVC sheeting with 3/16" PVC 1" angle reinforcing the corners. Made insulating it with home-depot sheeting easy. Price worked out to be about the same as what you're looking at.
 
Yep, the top of the tank will be cut out somewhat. The sides and bottom are flat so fittings should seal well. Where did you get the PVC sheeting and angles? And how did you "weld" it together?
 

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