Hey everyone. My name is justin from fl. I'm new to the site and this is my first post. I picked up this fiber glass hull from a buddy for 100$ and decided to make a project out of it. This is the first boat I've ever owned so I may be a little boat dumb and will look to you guys for some input. It's a 13 ft 9in princess. The boat is 4ft 9in wide in the rear. I'm guessing it's has a gel coat inside and seems to be ok except in the back where there is some minor cracking. I Have already re done the trailer so next up is the boat. My plans are to re paint the outside fix up the rear and put a casting deck up front with a trolling motor. I'll keep the thread going so everyone can follow. What would be the best way to put a casting deck up front on a fiberglass boat? Should I put a better floor in it? This boat is going to be used for bass fishing, brackish water, and full on saltwater fishing in some of the inlets. I'm open to any ideas. hope to be ready by spring next year. Hope this pics showed up. Thanks everyone. By the way I hope fiberglass boats are welcome here to lol.
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This project looks cool for sure.
This project looks cool for sure.
BloodStone
Well-known member
:WELCOME:
My very first boat mod was a 12' Fiberglass boat too. So here's my 2 cents worth...
1) Your boat is already heavier than hell so the goal is to make it more functional for your needs without making it too much heavier than it already is (draft is key).
2) Imo, you don't need a floor in that boat because the way it is now it's easier to clean (maybe a good coat of quality paint if you want).
Drainage holes between the seats (using pvc pipe) & a drainage hole (or bilge pump) out the back is a MUST (unless you're a fan of bailing).
3) MOST IMPORTANT: BEFORE you start ANY mods, check out the strength & condition of the transom. make sure it's solid with little to no rot. IF it's badly rotted, my advice is to dump the boat asap & get an aluminum boat. I know that sounds harsh BUT, putting a new transom in a fiberglass boat (even 1 that small) is an undertaking that's in short, a MAJOR pain in the arse. And just for the hell of it, I'd put some sort of bracing on that left & right side of that transom (inside-natch!)
especially if you plan on using an outboard gas motor on the back (suggested 5-10hp max if there is no Coast Guard sticker stating otherwise).
4) If #3 doesn't apply (I.e. no transom rot), the best idea for designing a front deck is to make/cut out a full size cardboard template first.
Figure out where you want things (livewell, storage, seat base etc..) to go where.
5) Once you have established all of that, I'd use 1/2 treated plywood for your front deck with some bracing underneath (the bench seats look solid-use them to support most of the decking). Important note: Before you make ANY decking permanent, check out the stability of the boat (I.e. set the decking in the boat, float it & see how stable it sits in the water with you sitting/standing in the front). How wobbly or secure does it feel?
6) How many people are going to fish out of the boat on a frequent basis? This will determine if you feel the need for a rear deck on that boat or just a rear pedestal seat. Well it's a start & I'm sure others here with more experience than I will chime in with their various suggestions (especially about adding extra foam for flotation should God forbid the boat take on water).
By & large were a helpful group of chaps. :lol:
Good Luck!
My very first boat mod was a 12' Fiberglass boat too. So here's my 2 cents worth...
1) Your boat is already heavier than hell so the goal is to make it more functional for your needs without making it too much heavier than it already is (draft is key).
2) Imo, you don't need a floor in that boat because the way it is now it's easier to clean (maybe a good coat of quality paint if you want).
Drainage holes between the seats (using pvc pipe) & a drainage hole (or bilge pump) out the back is a MUST (unless you're a fan of bailing).
3) MOST IMPORTANT: BEFORE you start ANY mods, check out the strength & condition of the transom. make sure it's solid with little to no rot. IF it's badly rotted, my advice is to dump the boat asap & get an aluminum boat. I know that sounds harsh BUT, putting a new transom in a fiberglass boat (even 1 that small) is an undertaking that's in short, a MAJOR pain in the arse. And just for the hell of it, I'd put some sort of bracing on that left & right side of that transom (inside-natch!)
especially if you plan on using an outboard gas motor on the back (suggested 5-10hp max if there is no Coast Guard sticker stating otherwise).
4) If #3 doesn't apply (I.e. no transom rot), the best idea for designing a front deck is to make/cut out a full size cardboard template first.
Figure out where you want things (livewell, storage, seat base etc..) to go where.
5) Once you have established all of that, I'd use 1/2 treated plywood for your front deck with some bracing underneath (the bench seats look solid-use them to support most of the decking). Important note: Before you make ANY decking permanent, check out the stability of the boat (I.e. set the decking in the boat, float it & see how stable it sits in the water with you sitting/standing in the front). How wobbly or secure does it feel?
6) How many people are going to fish out of the boat on a frequent basis? This will determine if you feel the need for a rear deck on that boat or just a rear pedestal seat. Well it's a start & I'm sure others here with more experience than I will chime in with their various suggestions (especially about adding extra foam for flotation should God forbid the boat take on water).
By & large were a helpful group of chaps. :lol:
Good Luck!
The transom isn't majorly rotted. I'm not even sure what's inside the transom. It's not hollow but if you push on it there is a little give. Not much but a little. Can I just cut a material to match the shape and fiberglass it Tom he inside part of the transom to make it more sturdy?
BloodStone
Well-known member
Bullshark said:
Trust me, I'm 99.5% sure it's wood covered by fiberglass. If you put the supports/braces on the inside (maybe a couple of small 2x4s attached between the rear seat & the upper inside transom) you might be ok. However, some guys who have weakened transoms on the bigger fiberglass boats fabricate an aluminum diamond plate 'slipcover' that covers most of the outside of the transom including the part where the OB motor rests & clamps on. Bolting on a transom support wouldn't be as messy or time consuming not to mention an easier fix than re-fiberglassing the whole inside of the transom (also far stronger). Although the link below isn't the exact item, I think you'll understand the basic concept. Good luck!
https://www.powersportsnetwork.com/...&product=753448&cattype=&ProductCategoryCode=
WPS
Well-known member
Welcome to TinBoats! :mrgreen:
Nice boat!... My FIL had a fiberglass boat, and the transom had wood in it... So I agree with "BloodStone" on #3 of his first post!
Nice boat!... My FIL had a fiberglass boat, and the transom had wood in it... So I agree with "BloodStone" on #3 of his first post!
Duke62
Well-known member
Justin, check out the link at the bottom of my post, I did a fiberglass boat similar to yours (1973 Seacruiser)
Just some updates. I Decided to rip the transom out. As everyone mentioned the wood was water logged and rotten. I cut the fiberglass piece out and scraped all the wood out. Everything is bone dry and I also removed the drain plug and plan to put a brand new one in. What kind of wood should I install now?
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lckstckn2smknbrls
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With FG boat you can use exterior grade plywood or very dry pressure treated plywood.
