Open 16ft starcraft SS with tiller?

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g0nef1sshn

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I recently purchased a 16ft Starcraft SS w/no motor. It has the consoles and steering still in it. Im thinking of maybe opening it up and using a tiller motor. I know the splash guard is huge and shouldnt be removed. Ive searched as much as I could for a picture of someone that has done this to no avail. Can anyone link me up with some pictures of someone that has done this? Ill be using this boat for duck hunting and family outings.

Thanks in advance.

Once I get the boat to my garage I plan on trying to keep a build thread going. I love this site since I got this boat.
 
heres some pics. The deck and transom are two things that definatley need replacing. ofcourse checking for the leaks once the deck is out. This will be a slow budgeted process. Wish the good stuff actually grew on trees.
 

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We bought almost the same exact boat and converted it. I took out the splash well and then completely re-did the transom as you can see in the picture.

So, instead of the transom dropping down right away from the gunwhale, I kept it high as far over as I could and still allow the motor to rotate it's full amount. It's better than wave whackers. Very little water gets in and that's only if you backtroll into good rollers. I don't weld so I just overlapped new aluminum and made a new piece for the inside as well. A bead of either construction adhesive or JB-Weld between the new piece and the existing hull works better than silicone and it's all bolted together with 1/4"-20 bolts really tightly. Then I remove 1 bolt at a time and replace it with solid 1/4" rivets.
 

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Here's some other pics, one of the inside of the starcraft, and 2 of another boat that I converted from short shaft to long shaft
 

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Thank you for the pics. That helps a lot. Think ill go for open floor plan and till on this one.
 
got started today. Finally. Few questions as I go. Fiberglasss over wood- redo or original? It looked like pretty good attempt. the yellow spray foam stuff was saturated/water logged, but the white is damp on outside but dry inside, should I re-use? Thi floor rotted from bottom up. More to do tomorrow.
 

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Replace the foam with the blue or pink closed cell foam insulating panels.
 
I agree with lckstckn2smknbrls, use the sheet foam, but don't put any in the center sections, you want plenty of airspace for the water to flow to the back of the boat to the drain and the airspace allows it to dry out, just make an access panel for you bilge that you can take out to allow air flow. Also, you have plenty of space behind the side panels to put flotation foam. Pack as much as you can in those side panels and the sections of floor that aren't in the center.
 
Started stripping the hull.
 

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Just be aware that the blue and pink foam you buy from the big box home improvement stores will dissolve into goo if gasoline spills on it - the original foam was urethane based and the manufacturers use it because it won't react with gasoline.
 
Few more pics of the paint stripping.
 

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onthewater102 said:
Just be aware that the blue and pink foam you buy from the big box home improvement stores will dissolve into goo if gasoline spills on it - the original foam was urethane based and the manufacturers use it because it won't react with gasoline.

Interesting, I did not know that. Wondered about it when I spilled gas in the boat. Pretty sure mine is all original white foam because my floor is aluminum.
 
There are also two types of polystyrene foam sold for home insulation - extruded and expanded. Only extruded is closed cell, so it shouldn't absorb water over time. Of course it's the one you want to use and naturally the more expensive of the two.

I opted to go with the expanding 2-part marine urethane foam - just meant i had to design cavities which could be filled separately and i needed drainage lines from the front compartment to the rear of the boat for any rainwater/splash etc. that gets up front to have someplace to go...I'm very happy with it as it let me use FRP sheeting for the decking material & kept the whole boat very light while being a fraction the cost of aluminum sheeting...
 
Picked up a new to me trailer for the boat and keepin on chippin away.
 

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Gonefishin

If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
Tim
 
Almost done. Its getting there.
 

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OK so thhe stripping is done and I got her flipped back over. I gave it a good pressure washing insinde and filled it with water and found several leaks at and around/under the transom knee brace. Sooooo.... off it came. I have three pitted holes and a rivet to replace/fix there. One more pitted hole in hull off to the side. And two slow leaks in the bow seams to address. I ordered Solid rivets and cleco's and picked up a few supplies including 3m 5200.
 

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earl60446 said:
Gonefishin

If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
Tim

I am looking into making the transom length 25-26 inches. Its currently 21". I did remove the splashwell and I dont intend to put it back in, but thats not certain yet.
 

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