1987 Lund Predator: Customer boat

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ericman

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Before pictures.

I hate the way these Lunds are put together.
There is 5 feet of width in the floor, so 1 4 foot wide piece stapled to a 1 foot wide piece and the seam falls between supports. So naturally the staples rusted away years ago, leaving a springy section of floor.
A huge in-floor gas tank with absolutely no supports above it, so a very springy piece of floor there.
AND the floor is riveted in so when the floor rots away, you drill out the rivet, except the drill bit almost always catches the rivet and just spins it. Eventually you get all the rivet heads drilled away and you pull out the floor and all the rivet shafts remain, so you grind all them away or drill them out if you can, then you have all that aluminum to vacuum out. Time consuming as hell. This boat had an external oil injection pump for the 50 hp Johnson. Well those oil lines had failed long ago so it had a bad oil leak and the carpet was soaked with Blue oil, gas, etc...
Once the side panels were removed, the gunnels sprung up, oh yeah, half the screws holding the side panels in place were hidden behind rub-rail so all that had to come out too. Uggh.
 

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Here was my solution to beef up the floor over the tank, 2 sections of aluminum channel riveted in place.
 

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Here's the finished pictures. All new carpet, new floor, new panels, new recessed door pulls, new speakers, new seats, carpeted gunnel, re-made bow-mount platform for the trolling motor, new paint, logos and numbers are painted on. Stripe is painted too.
 

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Thanks for the response. Good to know as I was thinking that blue was a lighter color than what I see on yours. Was looking at a flag blue but this just might work too. Again great job!
 
Johnny said:
wow - very impressive !!

I love the Rust-Oleum paints !!

What kind of fading do you see with the regular rustoleum or do you use the topside stuff? I am getting ready to paint my boat and the topside does not exist in my state. I like the color options with rustoleum but I am reading a lot about fading. Is there a final clear to use to help with the UV or just wax it?

Thanks in advance
 
I personally would never wax this stuff.
The only colors I would worry about fading would be the reds.
Unless you are always on the water or your boat is always outside without a cover, the amount of fade will really be minimal, in my opinion.
 
Before using the rust-oleum paint is it necessary to prime bare aluminum? Very minimal bare aluminum on my boat, wondering if it's worth it to spot prime. If it is, can anyone recommend a good primer?
 
Jimboat10 said:
Before using the rust-oleum paint is it necessary to prime bare aluminum? Very minimal bare aluminum on my boat, wondering if it's worth it to spot prime. If it is, can anyone recommend a good primer?
At a minimum, scrub any bare tin with a Scotchbrite pad and white vinegar. But I'd get a $6 can of spray zinc chromate primer from an auto parts store, applied per directions after the wash has well dried. Done right is done once :D .
 
Jimboat10 said:
Before using the rust-oleum paint is it necessary to prime bare aluminum? Very minimal bare aluminum on my boat, wondering if it's worth it to spot prime. If it is, can anyone recommend a good primer?


I am new to this but anywhere i had bare aluminum i would with acetone(think viniger is a better idea) and primed with self etching primer from rustoleum. My nephew does paint and body work and recommended the self etching.
 

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