1960-62 Texas Maid Jon Boat 1232

Hello everyone!

Iam a avid fly fisher and recently was given a 1232 Texas Maid Jon boat.

I plan on doing the basic restoration tasks. Strip sand seal and paint.

After which I will build a storage/ casting deck between the middle seat and the bow.

The storage compartment will house the battery, anchor/rope and life jackets.

In the stern ? ( I don't know boat lingo ) I will install a seat and another smaller storage cubby for a second anchor/rope and the depth finder.

Remaining areas of the boat floor will be covered with a floor board.

The purpose of the is boat is to allow me to safely fish from it on small to medium sized lakes. The lakes are very calm ( no gas engines allowed ). Only 1 person will be in the boat at any given time so I believe the 1232 size with 15" of free board will be adequate.

The boat is rated at 5hp and for 3 people.

Now for some details....

There are dents, lots of them.
There is a patch on the side about 15"x8". Looks to be well done.
There is some sort of spay sealant applied. ( that's is the black stuff )
There is some sort of epoxy or caulk sealant in various areas and rivets.

How should I deal with the unknown sealants and spays ??

Should I just leave the old stuff on there and then apply gluvit then paint it ?

Or should I scrape and pick all of the old sealants off first before I apply the gluvit ??

Couple pictures

Sanding sanding sanding ....

Iam going to JB Weld all the rivets on the bottom. A few of them leak

Sanding as much of this old unknown goop off the rivets first.

Then sand entire outer hull with 150-180 grit.

Then primer and paint.

What do you think ? Is that the correct course of action?





Transom and oar mounts are gone and being replaced

Try & rebuck the rivets mechanically to seal them rather than slother them up with goop. Then you'll know if they're truly fixed, afterwards hit them with the epoxy for a belt & suspenders approach.

The rivets have already been re bucked . The rivets are smashed up pretty good. I don't think there is much left for me to re buck with.

Get those rivets clean !







More sanding tomorrow and then I will be ready to start with JB Marine weld on all the rivets.

Or should I got with 3m 5200 ?

Looking good so far. I have used both but have not yet tested the 5200. I don't think you can go wrong with either one but I rolled the dice on the 5200. Good Luck! I'm working a twelve foot boat build too so I'll be checking on progress and bouncing my plans off of yours. :beer:

I gave all the rivets on the bottom of the boat a pass over with a dremel sanding tool.

All rivets are clean and bare metal.

I purchased some 3m 5200 and sikaflex 291. The latter is for mounting Scotty mounts and oar locks etc.

I keep this updated on the progress.

Tomorrow the inside of hull is getting cleaned and scuffed for paint.

For the rivets on the outside of my boat I used a product called Amazing Goop "Coat-It". It is basically the same thing as Gluvit that everyone talks about on this site but it sells at Academy for less than half the price ($20) and they carry it in stores...and with it being reinforced with Kevlar, I'm pretty sure that duff will out last all of us. It brushes on really easy. I used it on all of my rivets and seams on the outside/bottom of my boat, and then used 5200 on all all rivets and seams on the inside. I read a thread somewhere on here that suggested doing that and it made a lot of sense to me.

I took a chance. I will probably regret it but I sealed up the rivets with 3m 5200. Doesn't leak at all after the leak test. Might not hold up to log though.

The large patch in the middle inst actually a leaky area. I just wanted to even out a bad weld area.



Primer tomorrow.

Iam going with a cheap rustoleum aluminium primer and paint.

Hopefully the rivet fix will hold. I replaced all my leaky rivets with new ones and sealed with 5200 and have no leaks. I would hold off priming and try replacing the rivets. Its work and takes some time to do, but in the long run, you wont have to worry about leaks. See my build on how I replaced mine.

spayed the primer down on the outer hull tonight.









Top coat will go on tomorrow.

I can't seem to find dark green boat paint in my area. Lots of army green but no dark Forrest green.

Try Majic Tractor and Implement paint from Tractor Supply. I used it for all of the painting on mine and when used with the catalyst/hardener make for a really nice finish, and it can be rolled or sprayed. Just remember, if you roll it, use a foam roller ONLY.

Iam out in BC Canada, most brands sold in USA are not up here.

Piomarine said:

Try Majic Tractor and Implement paint from Tractor Supply. I used it for all of the painting on mine and when used with the catalyst/hardener make for a really nice finish, and it can be rolled or sprayed. Just remember, if you roll it, use a foam roller ONLY.

Click to expand...

I used the same thing on mine because I saw your boat project. It came out really nice. I preferred the HVLP gun to the roller but the hardener makes the finish very durable and glossy. Lastly, you can't beat the price!

Finished up the paint today. Just some touch ups and paint some of the hardware afterwards.

Transom pieces and floor section cut tonight. Just need to cut some floor supports for more rigid mounting.





It has so many dents. The colour is much better in daylight, my garage has poor lighting.

Hello everyone :LOL2:

The floor is covered.


Temporary oar sockets installed until I find some nicer ones.
I have to find a quick release swivel seat mount so I can get it finished up.


Minn Kota trolling motor and steering cable brackets almost done.





The floor is probably just going to see one season of use. I was pressed for time and couldn't build one exactly how I would have liked. Which is why 6" is not carpeted under the seat.