Sea Nymph Bass Attacker Rebuild

flex · Feb 8, 2017

Hey guys, new to forum. Lurked a bit.

I have an old aluminum that I've had since the mid 90s. Bought it in almost perfect shape back then, used it like crazy until about 05/06 when the motor went boom. Has sat since then as I mostly board and had other boats.

Finally decided I'm going to get it fixed up and have a fishing/duck hunting rig.

Where I'm at right now is stripped down to aluminum, stripped out most of the old wiring. The fun is about to begin.

I picked up a 75 evinrude 70 to go on it. It doesn't have controls and I wasn't aware that I couldn't retrofit my quicksilver merc controls.

Currently trying to figure out controls, tilt trim set up, and if I need to build a Jack plate or add to the transom for this motor. Once I figure out these the rest will hopefully go quick!

If anybody has input on what controls will and won't work, or input for the build let me know.

Plan is new decks, LED lights for bow fishing and lighting up decoy spread, paint camo, bed lined interior.

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flex · Feb 8, 2017

I think the motor has the rams? But just needs a new tilt/trim motor? Which is cheap. Not real sure. I'm not much of a mechanic but I can handle basic stuff if somebody points me in the right direction.

That's why I'm here!

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flex · Feb 8, 2017

This is the unit in the boat currently. Was paired with a 35 merc. Going to try and retrofit.

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flex · Feb 9, 2017

Update. Motor does not have a tilt trim. But found a used unit. So going to get that and then hopefully controls.

Also ordering a Jack plate. Need to raise it a little bit since its a long shaft.

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flex · Feb 9, 2017

Scored today! Got controls and all cables and wires, and going to pick up CMC Jack plate tomorrow!

Also cleaned out all of the wet foam, going to have to spray some new foam.

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fool4fish1226 · Feb 10, 2017

Go start, keep us updated

flex · Feb 11, 2017

Picked up the Jack plate yesterday. Got all the wood, epoxy, glass, paint for transom. Going to get it rolling tomorrow. Plan is get motor cranked up and going, and build transom tomorrow.

Really hoping I got lucky and the motor runs good.

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flex · Feb 12, 2017

Got all the rest of the old stuff out today. Pulled old transom. Made new one!

Got controls and what not hooked to motor but it didn't want to start. Ran out of light so not sure what the issue is. We got spark, compression, fuel, and air. Not sure why it wouldn't start up.

Other than that won't be long hopefully!

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dearl · Feb 13, 2017

Your off to a good start. You say you've got fuel and spark, does it even try to run I mean spit, sputter anything? Try this, when you turn the motor over, hit it with a shot of starting fluid, if it trys to crank, your carbs need to be gone through and cleaned or rebuilt. Dont try to run it on starting fluid, it has no oil in it and you risk ruining your rings and cylinder walls doing that. Just hit it with enough to see if it will bust off. Older OMC carbs are simple to rebuild, syncronizing them can be a bear, but with a manual its not so bad. A word of caution, if the motor starts do not advance the throttle more than idle with the motor not in the water. Without a test prop on it you could have the engine run away, once the motor reaches so many rpms, it will keep running at WOT just by cyntrifigual force. Keep a rag handy, if this happens show it in the carb to stop the air flow.

Also check the compression on all 3 cylinders. Carbed outboards use vacuum to pull fuel into the cylinders, if your compression is really low you may not be pulling fuel into the cylinder for ignition. My moneys on the carbs.

flex · Feb 13, 2017

dearl said:
Your off to a good start. You say you've got fuel and spark, does it even try to run I mean spit, sputter anything? Try this, when you turn the motor over, hit it with a shot of starting fluid, if it trys to crank, your carbs need to be gone through and cleaned or rebuilt. Dont try to run it on starting fluid, it has no oil in it and you risk ruining your rings and cylinder walls doing that. Just hit it with enough to see if it will bust off. Older OMC carbs are simple to rebuild, syncronizing them can be a bear, but with a manual its not so bad. A word of caution, if the motor starts do not advance the throttle more than idle with the motor not in the water. Without a test prop on it you could have the engine run away, once the motor reaches so many rpms, it will keep running at WOT just by cyntrifigual force. Keep a rag handy, if this happens show it in the carb to stop the air flow.

Also check the compression on all 3 cylinders. Carbed outboards use vacuum to pull fuel into the cylinders, if your compression is really low you may not be pulling fuel into the cylinder for ignition. My moneys on the carbs.

Thanks for the advice. Will try this.

We had it hooked to fuel, but didn't have a fuel bulb for it. We ran out of time and light, just hooked controls up, dropped a little oil in the cylinders, turned over with plugs out to blow it back out, then we tried to spray a little ether in it and see if it would fire at all. Weren't planning on running it.

But we didn't hook up clutch or throttle. Thinking that and fuel bulb May have been the issue.

We have a compression test kit. Will check compression next time now that we know it turns over.

Carb rebuilds should be easy.

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dearl · Feb 13, 2017

10-4 not having a bulb may have been your problem. The bulb primes the fuel pump. Once you install the bulb, you should be able to push the key in to prime the cylinder, when you push the key in you will hear a clicking noise at the motor if the primer solenoid is working. If not on the side of the primer there is a red lever, turn it, you should hear fuel spray into the carb throat. Once you do this, if everything else is right, she should bust right off.

Oh yea, make sure you install the bulb with the arrow facing the motor, couldn't tell you how many times I've seen this happen. Good luck.

flex · Feb 13, 2017

dearl said:
10-4 not having a bulb may have been your problem. The bulb primes the fuel pump. Once you install the bulb, you should be able to push the key in to prime the cylinder, when you push the key in you will hear a clicking noise at the motor if the primer solenoid is working. If not on the side of the primer there is a red lever, turn it, you should hear fuel spray into the carb throat. Once you do this, if everything else is right, she should bust right off.

Oh yea, make sure you install the bulb with the arrow facing the motor, couldn't tell you how many times I've seen this happen. Good luck.

Yep, I've seen people do the bulb wrong way as well. I wasn't aware of pushing the key in to prime. Will try.First OMC motor I've ever ran. Had a bunch of boats but first outboard in a long time. It's a 75 Evinrude 70.

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flex · Feb 13, 2017

Well, haven't gotten details yet. But my buddy just texted says it's running like a champ. And we have 120 compression all 3 cylinders. The only issue is these little plastic nubs that go on each side of the throttle linkage wore out. So need to see about finding a replacement.

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Lockndam25 · Feb 13, 2017

It must be the time of the year to work on boats before spring starts, I'm doing the same thing too I got a cmc trim as well, one thing to remember is blue wire is up like the color off the sky, also if you use ss bolts for the transom don't let them contact the aluminum use a heat shrink around the bolt and a plastic washer fill all hole with 3m 5500, not sure if mercury controls will work I bought mine off of amazon 285.00 dollars for band new smooth controls is worth it to me. hope this helps

flex · Feb 13, 2017

Lockndam25 said:
It must be the time of the year to work on boats before spring starts, I'm doing the same thing too I got a cmc trim as well, one thing to remember is blue wire is up like the color off the sky, also if you use ss bolts for the transom don't let them contact the aluminum use a heat shrink around the bolt and a plastic washer fill all hole with 3m 5500, not sure if mercury controls will work I bought mine off of amazon 285.00 dollars for band new smooth controls is worth it to me. hope this helps

I went ahead and purchased the right controls. I've had this boat for 15+ years. Last few years just been waiting for funds and a deal on a motor. Got it all so now it's go time!

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Lockndam25 · Feb 13, 2017

The part your looking for on the controls is going to be a dealer part or online from a Johnson supplier.

I find it hard to trust online stores if I can't touch and hold what I'm buying to see if it's what I need.

flex · Feb 14, 2017

Lockndam25 said:
The part your looking for on the controls is going to be a dealer part or online from a Johnson supplier.

I find it hard to trust online stores if I can't touch and hold what I'm buying to see if it's what I need.

I'm the same way. I'll go by the only dealer here and see what he says. Otherwise i feel we can fix it with red neck ingenuity.

The new transom is in. And it is stout! Way sturdier than the original! Almost ready for lake test, then if all is smooth paint and decks and we're rocking!

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flex · Feb 16, 2017

Update found parts. It's a little set of ball and sockets on the timing thing. They were cheap. Should arrive today.

Also ordered a gallon of Duralux Dead grass green. Going to coat the whole boat with it. And then possibly do either kryptek style stencils or "tiger stripes" on the outside. Haven't really seen either done before and want my rig to stand out.

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Lockndam25 · Feb 18, 2017

Looking good, post some photos of the paint your doing I would like to see how it turns out.

flex · Feb 21, 2017

My buddy got on it a little today and got the motor and Jack plate mocked up. Things going to be a rocket!

Paint also came in today, fuel line seats ordered. Hopefully have her in water soon!

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Sea Nymph Bass Attacker Rebuild

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