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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2009, 15:15 

Joined: 19 Nov 2009, 12:50
Posts: 10
Wow! Nice crappie. That's a beast. I think I will have to get some of the steel flex. It looks likee a good way to make sure rivets are sealed and it doesn't leak. Thanks


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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2009, 18:45 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
Posts: 3235
Location: GA
I've put it on my boat and although I haven't used the boat to tell how well the product lasts, I was out with someone recently who had it on his boat from the bottom all the way to the gunwales, and it was applied to his boat this year. I noticed that it was rubbing off where his pvc trailer guides rub the boat during loading/unloading, and he told me that the bottom was scraped off as well from pulling the boat onto banks. Given that the prep work was done correctly, and that it has started to rub off so quickly, I'm questioning the longevity, as well as the value (for me), of using it.

That said.....It's too early for me to give a thumbs up or down on it until I have the opportunity to use the boat and see if my own results somehow differ from his, but I thought it was at least "responsible" information for folks who are considering using it. It should also be noted that his product (as well as mine) was the less expensive version of the product, without the teflon additive. There's no question that it sealed the bottom of my boat, and that it's slick, but If it rubs off when I put the boat on the bank, I have a feeling I won't be quite as impressed with it. If I ran an airboat and was going across grass with it, I think the product would be unquestionably a good idea, but I don't...lol

My initial thoughts are...If the boat currently has any leaks, I would recommend fixing the leaks first and then consider using the product only as a preventative measure, and if you must use a chemical to seal the boat, use Gluv-It (a penetrating sealant) on the inside, where the chances of it being rubbed off are far less likely. Take this with a grain of salt, as I have no water time with the boat, and Im certainly not trying to dispute anyone's own experience.



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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2009, 20:09 

Joined: 19 Nov 2009, 12:50
Posts: 10
Thanks Brine! Now you have me thinking on whether to do it or not. I have been reading another modification and the guy used Steelflex 9x Epoxy coating. Is that what you used? I will be loading and unloading it from a trailer. I just had some leaks in my boat and needed to reseal all the rivets. I heard of the Gluv-it but I talked to a guy a West marine and it was pretty pricey. I am not sure what to do now. I have already resealed a number of the rivets on the bottom and painted it. The paint was a little bright so I ordered a gallon of hunter green from Cabela's. I was going to get the olive drab Flex Steel and apply it to the bottom of the outside and the iside of the boat. I have even considered the Herculiner. Rhino lining seems pricey. Your input is most helpful. This is a great site and I am learning so much. Some of these guys have amazing talent and are very skilled. I on the other hand am not. I just want to do a simple job...make the boat leak proof (if that is possible), paint it, put in seats and some carpet, probably pay somebody to do the electrical and that's it.


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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2009, 10:45 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
Posts: 3235
Location: GA
ba,

You're welcome and yes, that is the same product I used....and again, I tell you this feeling somewhat like the lone wolf because I've only read good things about the product on tinboats. It should also be noted that I don't have any first-hand experience with Gluv-It and am only going off what I have read. I know Gluv-it is pricey, but if it's the "best" product for sealing leaky rivets....it should be.

Forget using Herculiner. It's texture is too aggressive for the inside of a boat, and it will get hot in the sun. I used it on my trailer. I don't know about Rhino liner. I'm probably going to "invest" in the Gluv-it route even though I have the Steelflex on the bottom because of what I saw happening on the other guy's boat and the "value" I see in using it. For me, I will be using aluminum decks that get riveted down to the ribs, then either putting vinyl or a non skid paint on them, and don't want to ever have to remove the deck to repair a leaky rivet. If the decks were easy to remove or I didn't have any, I wouldn't spend the money on it as a preventative measure.

FYI, I fish several lakes that don't have a boat dock (as he does). I trailer the boat, but having to put the boat on the bank to get in and out of it is normal. Good luck, and I'll keep a lookout for your mod.

Does the boat still leak?
How hard would it be to add a product to the inside of the boat later?



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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2009, 10:47 

Joined: 17 Sep 2009, 08:22
Posts: 427
Location: Charleston, SC
That is one of the reasons I decided against using steelflex. I have read on a few other boards dealing with driftboats where they posters have stated they reapply the steelflex, or gluv-it every few years because it wears off. Lets face it, when we are talking about mud we are talking about "wet sanding". Nothing is going to stand up to that forever. I knew where my boat leaked and fixed the leaks so I decided to just go with paint and let it wear off on the bottom as it will.

I did decided to seal the inside using another product as a test to see how it would apply in this application but since I don't have leaks I am concerned with filling it was more of a testing type application.



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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2009, 10:58 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
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Location: GA
Also...I see that you can find Guvit for about $45 for a quart (which covers about 25-35 sq ft) and $85 for a gallon which covers 100-130 sq ft) plus shipping. I don't see the value in spreading it all over the inside of my hull where there is no potential for leaky rivets, and would only use it as a "spot" application on the rivets that are below the waterline. That said, I think a quart would do the job for me. I read that if the Gluvit is exposed to direct sunlight, it should be top coated with a paint etc..



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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2009, 11:05 

Joined: 19 Nov 2009, 12:50
Posts: 10
Thanks guys. I sealed the rivets on the bottom with some epoxy from West Marine and have already painted it but wasn't happy with the paint so I ordered the Hunter Green from Cabela's. Should be in today. I think I am just going to put two coats on and that's it for the bottom. I don't want to over-complicate this process. I just want to fix up the boat and go fishing. If I keep ordering stuff, I will never complete it. Not sure if the boat still leaks. Don't think it should since I have sealed the rivets, primed it and painted it (soon to be twice). Then I will flip it over and re-seal as many rivets in the boat, prime and paint it. I don't have the skills, imagination and craftmanship that these other guys have on here so this really isn't a mod and don't consider it to be worthy of pics. I do want it to look nice and have it be something I can be satisfied with. This problem originally started when I bought a used boat and realized that two of the ribs were cracked. I took it to an aluminum welding shop to fix the problem, but when I took it out it was leaking more than it had before. So I decided to clean off the paint and sealant on the bottom and re-seal the rivets (should have bucked them according to this website) and repaint it. Felt like I got in over my head. Was looking for products here in Tampa and couldn't find what I kept reading about. So like I said, I think I have overcomplicated matters and am missing out on prime fishing weather here in FL.


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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2009, 11:06 
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Great informative post guys! :beer:



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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 09 Jan 2010, 01:50 

Joined: 09 Jan 2010, 01:06
Posts: 3
New to the board with a question.

I have a 16.5' center console Klamath tin boat with a 50hp 4 stroke. I've tricked it out and have done a lot of modifications. I mostly fish the Sea of Cortez but do some freshwater here in Idaho.

I bought the boat used about 6 years ago and last year I started to get a few pinhole leaks and maybe a little pitting. I've had all of them, I hope, welded but am thinking of coating the inside of the boat to strengthen the hull and stop any further leaks.

First I thought of rhino etc. This will be under my floorboards so texture is not an issue. My concern is to strengthen the hull etc. After reading posts here on the board I'm wondering about using Gluv-it, Steelflex or???

Whats everyones thoughts? Thanks in advance...


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 Post subject: Steelflex
PostPosted: 09 Jan 2010, 11:54 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
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AcuDoc wrote:
New to the board with a question.

I have a 16.5' center console Klamath tin boat with a 50hp 4 stroke. I've tricked it out and have done a lot of modifications. I mostly fish the Sea of Cortez but do some freshwater here in Idaho.

I bought the boat used about 6 years ago and last year I started to get a few pinhole leaks and maybe a little pitting. I've had all of them, I hope, welded but am thinking of coating the inside of the boat to strengthen the hull and stop any further leaks.

First I thought of rhino etc. This will be under my floorboards so texture is not an issue. My concern is to strengthen the hull etc. After reading posts here on the board I'm wondering about using Gluv-it, Steelflex or???

Whats everyones thoughts? Thanks in advance...


I'd make sure your electrical system isn't a source of your corrosion. If all of your corrosion is below the waterline, I would think Steelflex may be a good option for you applied to the outside of the boat. I don't see the value in applying anything on the inside if the corrosion is coming from the outside, but I don't fully understand the intracacies of tin boats and salt water either.



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