SmallieBigs 12' Sea King Project

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SmallieBigs

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Location
Upstate New York
Hey guys I finally found a decent deal on a little boat to replace the canoe I just sold. It's a 1967 12' Wards Sea King with a homemade trailer AND registration for both for $200. I sold my Pelican Canoe for $280 so after gas to pick it up and registration fees, it's about an even swap.

Filled it with water last night and NO LEAKS!!! [-o<

I don't plan on doing too much to it because I want to keep it light. I'm going to take out the benches, build bow and stern storage areas, put in some pedestal seats (not too high) and build a floor. Maybe paint it, not sure if I want to spend the money to do that. I have enough lumber and plywood to do everything but I'm going to check with my friend that runs an aluminum dock company about buying some scrap and doing it all in aluminum to really keep the weight down.

It's going to be powered by my 40# thrust Minn Kota.... for now :mrgreen:

I'm going to DMV on Monday to register the boat and make sure that all goes through before I start any mods.

Picture 018.jpg
Needs new wood on the outside of the transom but the inside wood is in great shape
Picture 014.jpg

Picture 015.jpg
 
Hey Jasper thanks for looking!

I'm trying to figure out what I should do with paint. I've been checking out the steel flex apps and for about the same cost as a 2-3 coats self etching primer and 2-3 coats of paint I could lay down 2 coats of the regular steelflex on the whole outside of the boat and have some extra leak protection.

How durable is the steelflex does it chip easy or is it pretty perminant stuff?

Can you paint over it at all?

Seems kind of funny to name such a small boat, but my son named it Green Day after his favorite band :lol:
 
Sorry for the delay.

I haven't worked with steelflex, but I seen others on this site work with it.
Just post a question on a mod thread, I'm sure someone can give you some advice.

Btw, I like the name. Very unique.
 
I used steelflex, and yes it is durable. Also a pain to paint...or should I say spread on. If I had a boat that didn't have any leaks, I wouldn't waste my money on Steelflex. JMO.....

I think if you remove your seats, and install a low floor w/ s brackets to brace your sides.... that will still be a nice, light, and very fishable boat.
 
Thanks for the info guys!

Perchin your thread was one of the first ones I read through on this site. Great work on that boat =D>

Waiting on my friend to come through on the aluminum from his company. I'm trading some guitar work for some aluminum. I'm going to install some '57 humbuckers in his Gibson Studio LP for some free Aluminum plus I get to keep the EMG's that I take out so it's a win win win for me :D

I may save the aluminum for a bigger project boat and just go with plywood on this one since there won't be very much of it though. I'm thinking about just flipping this after a little work and getting a 14ft for a little more room depending on what I can get for her.
 
thats what im gonna do with my 1432 eventually...

as for paint... check out tractor and implement paint at your local farm supply or tractor supply co. (TSC). i bought a gallon of blue and a small bottle of hardener (i highly recommend this) that you add to the paint. it goes on very nicely using a foam roller. i did 2 coats on the outside of my 1432 and i only used about half a gallon. the first coat went on a little streaky and blotchy but after i started applying the 2nd coat it started leveling out and really impressed me! it also is very durable and is what i would consider the next step below steelflex in durability... good luck with your build!
 
arkansasnative said:
thats what im gonna do with my 1432 eventually...

as for paint... check out tractor and implement paint at your local farm supply or tractor supply co. (TSC). i bought a gallon of blue and a small bottle of hardener (i highly recommend this) that you add to the paint. it goes on very nicely using a foam roller. i did 2 coats on the outside of my 1432 and i only used about half a gallon. the first coat went on a little streaky and blotchy but after i started applying the 2nd coat it started leveling out and really impressed me! it also is very durable and is what i would consider the next step below steelflex in durability... good luck with your build!

Thanks for the tips on the implement paint I will definitely look into that. Did you have to use the self-etching primer with it?

I only had a couple of leaky rivets and one small dent to fix so I don't need steel flex to plug up any leaks, but a nice shiny coat of paint would be nice..
 
SB-
That was quite the steal you got there bud! Sounds like you got your plans all setup, which is definitely a good thing. The One thing I have learned through my experience on my boat is to plan twice and execute, sure would save me far less trips to the hardware store if I would think sometimes :roll: lol Will definitely be watching to see how she turns out! :D
 
You can get a standard Axle and use those shocks with it. Shocks make a big difference.
I have bearing buddies on two of my three trailers. Never had a problem except for an old rusted trailer with Metric axles instead of U.S. standard. Had a heckuva time getting the right bearings.

You have a great boat there. At a heckuva good price too.

I took the middle seat out of my boat and put a sliding seat in the middle for rowing. You maybe don't know it because your used to that Electric motor, but you can row for miles without tiring. You can average nearly three Mph rowing and wont have a Dead Battery after a day's fishing.

Dont forget to put some Cat fish stuff in the boat. Set it out at Dark and pick it up at first light.

Your set with a Cost free fishing trip with that boat. Take the kids along and make it rock n' roll till they giggle themselves to sleep.
 
waterfowler1 said:
SB-
That was quite the steal you got there bud! Sounds like you got your plans all setup, which is definitely a good thing. The One thing I have learned through my experience on my boat is to plan twice and execute, sure would save me far less trips to the hardware store if I would think sometimes :roll: lol Will definitely be watching to see how she turns out! :D

Thanks! I've read almost all of the mod threads on this site so hopefully I've learned from other's mistakes and don't screw it up too bad :mrgreen:

thudpucker said:
You can get a standard Axle and use those shocks with it. Shocks make a big difference.
I have bearing buddies on two of my three trailers. Never had a problem except for an old rusted trailer with Metric axles instead of U.S. standard. Had a heckuva time getting the right bearings.

You have a great boat there. At a heckuva good price too.

I took the middle seat out of my boat and put a sliding seat in the middle for rowing. You maybe don't know it because your used to that Electric motor, but you can row for miles without tiring. You can average nearly three Mph rowing and wont have a Dead Battery after a day's fishing.
Thanks!
I had a mechanic buddy of mine come over and check out the trailer for me this morning and he said it looks pretty well built and I won't have any problems with inspections once I get the lights installed, so that's probably what I will be working on first thing. Going to head out to Autozone and pick up the light kit later today.

I did more rowing in a boat exactly like this one when I was a kid than I ever care to again!
My parents used to own a camp on a lake when I was a kid and I put some miles rowing around that lake chasing smallies and pickeral all summer. I think I'll just get a back up battery :LOL2:
 
SmallieBigs said:
arkansasnative said:
thats what im gonna do with my 1432 eventually...

as for paint... check out tractor and implement paint at your local farm supply or tractor supply co. (TSC). i bought a gallon of blue and a small bottle of hardener (i highly recommend this) that you add to the paint. it goes on very nicely using a foam roller. i did 2 coats on the outside of my 1432 and i only used about half a gallon. the first coat went on a little streaky and blotchy but after i started applying the 2nd coat it started leveling out and really impressed me! it also is very durable and is what i would consider the next step below steelflex in durability... good luck with your build!

Thanks for the tips on the implement paint I will definitely look into that. Did you have to use the self-etching primer with it?

I only had a couple of leaky rivets and one small dent to fix so I don't need steel flex to plug up any leaks, but a nice shiny coat of paint would be nice..

i did use self etching primer with it... took about 4 cans to do my 1432. and this paint does SHINE!
 
Looking nice! If it does not leak , why us steelflex? Tractor paint is great ( Tractor supply) My other question would be why paint in the first place, a good cleanup on the outside, shine it up, paint the inside maybee, just fish! paint in the winter...
 
Froggy said:
Looking nice! If it does not leak , why us steelflex? Tractor paint is great ( Tractor supply) My other question would be why paint in the first place, a good cleanup on the outside, shine it up, paint the inside maybee, just fish! paint in the winter...

That's a good idea! I probably am going to just clean up and shine the bottom and rails, but I want to put some red on the sides. The decision to paint it red was made for me by my son. I'm trying to get him involved as much as I can and try to get him more interested in fishing. I think red on the sides would go really great with bare aluminum.

As soon as I get the trailer done and weld up a hitch set up for my car I will be fishing out of it. I am just going to do the work in between fishing trips when I can.

Bought the trailer lights, took out the seats, and started rebucking rivets on it today. For a boat that's 43 years old, it really is in pretty good shape.
 
MWAK87 said:
Great Find, I love the fenders on that trailer!!

Thanks! They remind me of a car from the 50's or 60's and they will make a good place to mount the lights. I was going to do that today but it's been raining all day. My wire pulling buddy didn't feel up to going out in the rain to do it :mrgreen:

Once I actually get something done I will throw up some pics.
 
Well I think I need a bigger boat now...I just bought an old but really clean Chrysler (West Bend) 20 hp short shaft tiller with a 6 gal plastic tank really cheap $150. It starts up easy in 1 to 2 pulls, shifts really smooth, and under the cowl it looks almost new. It definitely wasn't left outside much at all. Even the paint on the outside looks good. I will throw up some pics later.

I haven't done anymore work on the boat because I was holding out looking for a motor and cash is a little tight at the moment.

Are HP ratings on boats because of weight or thrust power?

I don't think the little 12' Sea King would handle this motor as is without beefing up the transom, it weights about 75 lbs.

What do you guys think?

Picture 025.jpg

Picture 024.jpg
 
Caution is the Watchword here.
I don't know much about the Chrysler's, why they didn't sell etc.
But the boat can handle 20 Hp weight and power.
Just don't apply the throttle all at once and try to keep the throttle setting a 15 Mph. Use your GPS and check the throttle position.

My 12' with a 9.5 Johnson went 17 Mph without any struggle or damage
01010010.jpg


Keep an eye on the transom, watching out for stress cracks. Next year you'll know.

The HP weight setting is for both stress on the boat and sinking. The boat, newer than 1972 is supposed to float, Gunn'ls up, with the rated load on board.
 
Thanks for the reply thudpucker. I'm not sure what the rating of the boat is, but I was assuming that it's probably not more than 10 hp. It wouldn't be a problem to beef up the transom and add some more support. I was thinking of putting the gas tank and/or the battery for the trolling motor up front to even the weight out a little.

Anyone know what a 1967 Wards Sea King 12' row boat is rated for weight?
 

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