'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

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jigngrub
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by jigngrub » 11 Nov 2011, 19:34

Loc-tite makes a 2 part epoxy weld for metals, you can find it in the paint department of Wal-mart. I used it on a crack in my bow and it flows nicely to fill the void. Some other folks use JB weld.

Good call on replacing the lower deck plywood.

Aren't you glad you decided to go ahead and pull the decking now.
Rum, wenches, and song... just another day on my boat.

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whistler
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by whistler » 12 Nov 2011, 13:08

jigngrub wrote: If you'll read here:

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Rivets.html

You'll see that some blind rivets can be as strong or stronger than solid rivets.
Strength of blind rivets (compared to solid rivets )

The strength of blind rivets as given in suppliers tables is generally the ultimate strength at failure. In comparing the strength of blind rivets with conventional solid rivets (same material ) the solid rivets are generally stronger than blind rivets for the blind rivets where the blind rivet mandrel breaks off below the shear line. For the blind rivets where the mandrel breaks off above the shear line the blind rivets are generally stronger.
jigngrub this is turning into a peeing match and that's not what I intended to do. Sorry this is happening. In your quote above I would like to ask for my better understanding what is the deciding factor as to where the mandrel breaks off? Is it the type rivet used or just a some do some don't luck of the draw type of thing?
jigngrub wrote:As I've stated before, the closed end blind rivets aren't your normal run of the mill wimpy pop rivet, and until you've used them you probably won't understand.
I am aware of the type rivet you're speaking of I have several and my tool will not set them. For discussion purposes and to help everyone including myself understand and maybe learn a thing or two, how do you explain that all boat manufactures (that I've seen) use solid rivets for the hulls of their aluminum boats. All of our aircraft and the all aluminum Freightliner truck uses solid rivets. Again I'm not saying they are absolutely better but there's got to be something for the majority of the aluminum manufacturing process, when structural integrity in needed they use solid rivets. Maybe with the gauges used after setting them they can be more absolute that every single rivet is up to snuff and correct. Again jigngrub don't take this that I'm putting anything that you're doing as 2nd rate. I'm sure after reading your post your are up to the task, an anything you do will work fine. Are we OK with that part?

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 12 Nov 2011, 20:42

Managed to get the front deck off this morning. The entire thing was glued to each of the supports. Luckily I was able to remove it without damaging the plywood. The plywood on the front deck was in much better shape. I am going to sand it down, and coat it the same as the lower deck. I also picked up a new piece of arauco plywood for the lower deck today. Now I need to wait for the epoxy resin to arrive and then I can start on the building side of the job.

I've started making some measurements of the panels so I can get an idea of how much vinyl I need to order. I may try to layout the pieces in my drawing program so I can get the best fit for all of my pieces with the minimum amount of waste.

I've still got a bunch of cleaning to do to get rid of the remainder of the residue on the panels. But at this point, all seems to be going well.

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 12 Nov 2011, 22:11

One additional question: Does any one know if the Nautolex Vinyl is a directional pattern? Will I need to orient everything the same way, or can I place items as I need to minimize usage?

spotco2
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by spotco2 » 13 Nov 2011, 04:42

I would just clean it, scuff it and apply a marine epoxy. You can always water test it in the shop by putting water inside the boat to see if it leaks back out.

I'm glad you are doing these pics. I've got a 90 model that I am gong to have to go through before to long and wondered how some of the interior was assembled.

I would recommend completely replumbing that live well drain. There are a lot of people that have leaks in that area and it is almost impossible to fix without taking half of the boat apart.

Keep up the good work.

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 13 Nov 2011, 07:59

Spotco, the reason that I decided to do the post was that I couldn't find a thread that showed the images of how to take the whole thing apart, and I figured it might be a good reference for others in the future. Glad that I can help. I'll look into the livewell hose. I know from other posts that when the livewell drain goes, you can be looking at a whole bunch of water in your boat really quickly.

I took some measurements yesterday and played around with the layout of the vinyl, trying to figure out how much I need. I don't want to buy too much extra, as there isn't any way to return any less than 3 feet that's uncut.

Here's the layout of the boat as I measured it: The position of the console and seat boxes are approximate.
111113=Decking Layout.jpg
Deck layout
After playing around with the arrangements, I figure I need about 24 feet of 72" wide vinyl.
111113-Tracker Vinyl Cutting  Layout.jpg
Cutting layout
That's a LOT more than I was originally expecting to use. I gave myself about a 3" border around all of the original shapes to allow me to wrap the vinyl around the edges and tack it down. This has to be ordered in 3 foot increments. I might be able to reduce it by three feet by not redoing the console and seat boxes, but I might as well do it right...

I have a full scale editable copy of the layout in a .SVG (Scaled Vector Graphic) format if anyone wants it. It can be edited using a free program called Inkscape. Just send me a PM, I can't upload it here.

Now on to the painful step of ordering the material. Oh, well, in for a penny, in for a pound.

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 15 Nov 2011, 12:04

I've been working on the long and tedious task of removing the old carpet backing and glue from the various parts and pieces that were covered. It's been about 4 days of work with about 3 hrs per day. I've been using a sharp chisel to scrape the glue off of the aluminum parts, as the sanding disks and wire brushes are loading up with glue too quickly to make them useful. I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with one seat box, the front casting deck and the front vertical panel left to do. I'm hoping the casting deck goes quickly with a sanding disk, but we'll have to see.

I've got boxes of parts and tools arriving daily. It feels like Christmas already :) I'm thinking that I'll be starting the rebuild within a week or two. My hope is to be completed before the Christmas break.

I got in a new water pressure gauge and line yesterday along with a trim gauge. Unfortunately, I think the trim sending unit off of the parts motor is bad, which is not something I expected to replace. I'm having a real hard time finding the correct part number to order, as the sending unit is not showing up on any of the parts diagrams online. :(

Some pictures of the bad unit:
IMG_20111115_081053-a.jpg
90 Johnson trim sender
IMG_20111115_081103-a.jpg
90 Johnson trim sender
IMG_20111115_081111-a.jpg
90 Johnson trim sender
If anyone has a similar part on their motor, can you let me know what the part# might be? Even your model and year of the motor could help me track it down.

Thanks!

jigngrub
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by jigngrub » 15 Nov 2011, 14:17

Yes, the Nautolex vinyl is directional... and you can really tell when a piece is turned the wrong way. I saw a pic of some someone had done with a piece turned the wrong way and it stuck out like a sore thumb.

I used 33 linear feet for my 17' deep V.

Remember, the piece you cut out of a hatch hole will not cover the hatch for that hole! You want to have the same 3" wrap on the inside of your hatch holes and on your hatches too. You need to order extra for all of your hatches.
Rum, wenches, and song... just another day on my boat.

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 15 Nov 2011, 14:27

Well that really bites... the amount of waste that I'm going to have is huge. I'll have to look into updating my order :( It didn't look directional from the sample pictures I saw, but oh well.

Thanks for the comment on using the cutout for the same compartment. That's what I had planned on. I was going to use the bilge cutout for the livewell covers. The bilge is much larger, so it shouldn't be a problem.

On the good side, I just found the part number for the sending unit. It was in the steering swivel and tilt portion of the parts diagram and very faded and difficult to see. One 0583690 Sender unit on order!

jigngrub
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by jigngrub » 15 Nov 2011, 14:53

Sorry about the late answer on the vinyl being directional.

Your top drawing of the boat pieces is how I did my boat, I designated one end of the roll the "bow" and went from there. I originally ordered 27' of vinyl and had to order back 6 more feet. :roll:

You may not have as much scrap left as you think, after all was said and done with mine I had considerably less than a square yard left.

You may want to go ahead and use what you have ordered and then order back when you have less parts to figure, because some of your scrap will be useable on other parts.
Rum, wenches, and song... just another day on my boat.

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kofkorn
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by kofkorn » 15 Nov 2011, 15:05

Thanks for the info anyway. It's certainly better to know what I need instead of having to figure it out later. I've crudely played with the layout to reorient everything in one direction, and I think I'll be able to get away with the amount that I have. I might do a little patchwork with something less important like the seat boxes or something like that, but I think I can make it work. I might be able to seam one of the side panels behind the console or something. I'll update the layout tonight.

I dread having to go back to my wife and let her know that I need to order even more... :shock: I am way over budget already...

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kofkorn
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Post by kofkorn » 16 Nov 2011, 09:44

OK, here's the updated layout with all of the items oriented in one direction, to give the best appearance:
Tracker Vinyl Layout-a.jpg
Tracker Vinyl Layout
I received the vinyl in last night, and upon initial inspection, I don't think that the orientation is very obvious. I'll have to check again when I get a chance to cut a larger piece off and inspect it better.

Last night I played around with some of the electrics, and I managed to get the flasher/sounder running. The power/sensitivity switch was not functioning properly, not supplying power to the flasher unit. I opened the switch enclosure and bypassed the switch contacts and got it running. Now I'll just have to install an external power switch.

It's a good thing to have the flasher running, but now I need to find a location for my Trim/Tilt gauge. I'm thinking I'll make a small panel in the location where the stereo head unit was. Additionally, I was going to use the mounting bracket for the flasher transducer to mount my Garmin 300C transducer. I'll have to add a second mount onto the transom now.

Oh well, more work to keep me busy.

whistler
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by whistler » 16 Nov 2011, 12:37

kofkorn, I guess everyone around here uses carpet from Lowes, so I don't know that I've seen the Nautolex before. Is there anything you can compare it to that I might get a pic in my mind of what you're dealing with. I went to the website but that didn't help. Your project sound like some of mine, you get started and it just keeps getting deeper but it's easier and cheaper to do it now than to cut corners and have to lick your wounds later. Keep up the good work.

jigngrub
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'89 Tracker Pro 17 Investigation (lots of pics to come)

Post by jigngrub » 16 Nov 2011, 12:56

I just did my boat in Nautolex:
Image

What are you doing with a flasher KK? Gonna fish straight down like fishing through a hole in the ice? :wink:

My HB 747 has a flasher mode, but I don't ever use it.
Rum, wenches, and song... just another day on my boat.

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kofkorn
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Post by kofkorn » 16 Nov 2011, 14:04

Hi Whistler,

I went into this expecting some re-work, but I didn't think it would go as far as it has. I was really hoping to only have to re-carpet the rear deck, thinking that the front and main casting decks were in good condition. I was going to just remove and put back the livewell and bilge covers, and re-carpet only what I had torn up. When I found that the plywood had been untreated before applying the carpet, it turned into a whole different project. At this point, I've taken so much apart that I decided to go with the vinyl instead of carpet. I hate having wet carpet, it never drys out and gets your pants wet when you kneel down. Now I need to replace every piece of carpet on the boat, a much larger and more laborious task than I originally hoped.

I am still very glad I did it, as I probably wouldn't have found half the issues that I've seen without it.

As to the flasher Jigngrub, I am a tinkerer at heart. It was as much of the challenge of getting it going again as finding a use for it. My thought is to use it more as a depth sounder than a fish finder. I've already got an Eagle 320 on the trolling motor, and I'll take my Garmin 300C and mount it so it is visible to the driver and the rear casting deck. In the end, it may get yanked anyway :). But I would have had to take it apart to find out what was wrong with it, as it would bother me to no end until I found out :).

I'm an engineer, and no questions can go unanswered... I have about a 95% success rate at finding out what is wrong and about a 75% success rate getting it back together after :) I've been this way as long as I can remember, and my wife just rolls her eyes and lets me go... Good woman :)

JnG, wanted to tell you that you did a great job on your boat. I hope mine turns out half as well as yours did. Mine didn't start with all of the nice aluminum trim around the covers, so it's certainly going to look a lot more plain.

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