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monriverguy

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Hello to everyone out there and thanks for all advise in advance.

I just got my second Lone Star boat a 18 ft 1959 Eldorado, and it needs lots of TLC and then some. The transom was tore out by PO. Silicone smeared all over the in side at the seams and the stringer's. And the paint on the bottom is nearly down to bare. I will post pic's on here tonight if i can. My question is where do you all think i should start to see if this old gal can be saved? i have tore out the flooring and the sides and have filled her up part way with water so far just 3-4 leaks around rivets. How far can i fill her up safely?

And once again thanks to all( i really love the way this tinner looks)

John
 
I really love the way this tinner looks


You answered your own question. With love in the equation, rational thinking goes by the way-side.

Be safe, have fun, don't keep receipts.

=D>
 
Kismet said:
I really love the way this tinner looks


You answered your own question. With love in the equation, rational thinking goes by the way-side.

Be safe, have fun, don't keep receipts.

=D>

What Kismet said! :)

We,too, have an old LS. A '56. I've been working on her since July. All you need is the want to, a few kind words and a little patience. She'll be worth it when you see her on the water for the first time! 8) Post pics!

Keith
Texas
 
When filling a boat with water for a leak test, watch your trailer tires to judge the weight load.

The easiest long lasting way to fix leaky rivets is like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related
 
OK a few more questions, Where can you get rivets like that, Where can you get the rivet gun at ? and what kinda of epoxy was that i thought everyone used 3m 5200 to seal the rivets.
 
You can buy the rivets here:
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html
You can buy the setting tool there too, or you can get one from Harbor Freight for $20.

You can get Loc-tite marine epoxy from Home Depot or Wal-Mart... or you can use 5200, but 5200 is thinner and runnier/messier.
 
OK thanks all for the advice and encouragement so far, so here is the question , The PO put silicone on all the rivets and seams on the inside of the boat, I have the floor removed and plan on putting in the new transom, so far i have only found 3-4 leaks mainly in the rear of the boat? do i just leave the silicone on? do i try to still wire brush it off and replace with glove it? And it looks like it is stuck on there very well..

Thanks again to all.......
 
Don't use a steel wire brush. It will leave it's bristles behind, causing rust later. Instead, use a brass brush. I used a brass brush on a drill. Worked pretty good. Then, I drilled out the rivets and went back with new rivets. No leaks.

Keith
 
TexasLoneStar56 said:
Don't use a steel wire brush. It will leave it's bristles behind, causing rust later. Instead, use a brass brush. I used a brass brush on a drill. Worked pretty good. Then, I drilled out the rivets and went back with new rivets. No leaks.

Keith
Stainless steel and nylox wheels are safe on aluminum.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
TexasLoneStar56 said:
Don't use a steel wire brush. It will leave it's bristles behind, causing rust later. Instead, use a brass brush. I used a brass brush on a drill. Worked pretty good. Then, I drilled out the rivets and went back with new rivets. No leaks.

Keith
Stainless steel and nylox wheels are safe on aluminum.

I did not know, or realize that. Thanks! :wink:
 
PIC_0023.JPG Thanks for all the great tips got a brass wire brush tried it out i got many hours of grinding ahead of me.........
 

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PIC_0011.JPGok here is what i am facing any help much appreciated......
 

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OK all been busy here but got the transom cut ,glued, and coated with spar.. took it home and it fits real nice.. MY first transom..... :D
 

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Thanks bobberboy i do like the old ones, Have a lot of work to do on her, going to start on the new floor next get it cut and coated, need warm weather here to bolt transom in to cold for 3m 5200 so i will just plug away till spring......
 
OK all here is the question, in order to replace the transom i had to drill out the rivets on the knee brace and the side braces a total 0f 26, i was going to replace them with 1/4 SS bolts ,washers and lock nut's and use 3m 5200 to seal before install.... What do you all think ? also can any one give me a idea of how a cable pulley steering system works the boat still has the original steering wheel and i would like to keep it..........

Thanks again for every ones help
 
Sounds like a good plan for replacing the rivets. I have no experience with the steering but I am sure someone will help you out with that.
 
monriverguy said:
OK all here is the question, in order to replace the transom i had to drill out the rivets on the knee brace and the side braces a total 0f 26, i was going to replace them with 1/4 SS bolts ,washers and lock nut's and use 3m 5200 to seal before install.... What do you all think ? also can any one give me a idea of how a cable pulley steering system works the boat still has the original steering wheel and i would like to keep it..........

Thanks again for every ones help

Ours has the original steering as well. (1956 Lone Star 16' Clipper) Do you need pics of how it attaches or what? I have the dash off. The steering wheel, cables and pulleys are all still in tact. Let me know, I'll be glad to take a couple of pics for you. What kind of motor is going on it? You'll have to have the bracket that attaches from the boat transom to the motor for your steering.

RIVETS! Aluminum buck rivets.

Keith
Texas
 

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