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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2011, 21:26 

Joined: 09 Nov 2010, 00:57
Posts: 17
Location: Jacksonville, Fl/ Clemson, SC
I just lucked out and found a new 45 lb thrust motor at Dick's for $90, on a 12' Jon about how fast should i be able to go?
Thanks,


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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2011, 21:43 
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2-3 mph with a tailwind

Will not go all that fast, but better then rowing



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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2011, 21:52 
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Captain Ahab wrote:
2-3 mph with a tailwind

Will not go all that fast, but better then rowing

better be a strong tail wind...you cant talk about speed in reference to a trolling motor



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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2011, 09:49 
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Joined: 11 Jun 2010, 15:41
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Location: Berlin Center, MI
Ya mph is not a real big concern with the troller. My fishing buddy has a 30 lb thrust on a 12 foot and it moves the both of us just fine. Just don't be in a big hurry to be anywhere.


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2011, 10:42 
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Joined: 26 May 2010, 00:31
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Location: Ft Pierce FL
I have taken my 40lbs motor some very large distances and in chop and currents as well. Yours should run about 2-4mph :) 4mph on glass. If you have the day off id take the slow electric piece and quiet option on any trip any day



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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2011, 13:56 

Joined: 09 Nov 2010, 00:57
Posts: 17
Location: Jacksonville, Fl/ Clemson, SC
i took it out a couple days ago and it got me and a friend moving pretty good, probably somewhere round 3-4 mph


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2011, 22:44 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2010, 15:52
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Location: Toms River, NJ
John Redcorn wrote:
I just lucked out and found a new 45 lb thrust motor at Dick's for $90, on a 12' Jon about how fast should i be able to go?
Thanks,

I lucked out on the same deal from Dick's as well. Really wanted to find a 55lb, but they were all out of stock.



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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2011, 00:08 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2010, 10:27
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Location: REPUBLIC of TEXAS
redbug wrote:
Captain Ahab wrote:
2-3 mph with a tailwind

Will not go all that fast, but better then rowing

better be a strong tail wind...you cant talk about speed in reference to a trolling motor


Are you talking about a new fully charged battery or an older lesser charged battery, makes a difference with speed and distance. If you really want to know how fast your moving, take a GPS with you, it tells the speed.



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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2011, 00:47 

Joined: 09 Nov 2010, 00:57
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Location: Jacksonville, Fl/ Clemson, SC
rusty.hook wrote:
redbug wrote:
Captain Ahab wrote:
2-3 mph with a tailwind

Will not go all that fast, but better then rowing

better be a strong tail wind...you cant talk about speed in reference to a trolling motor


Are you talking about a new fully charged battery or an older lesser charged battery, makes a difference with speed and distance. If you really want to know how fast your moving, take a GPS with you, it tells the speed.


The battery we used was at most half charged, when I get some time, I wanna string together a few batteries so i can go out for a while at a time


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PostPosted: 07 Feb 2011, 02:31 

Joined: 16 Jan 2011, 21:23
Posts: 62
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
My 40# riptide would move my 12' smokercraft V at 4.3 mph with me and the dog in it. Pushes my 13.5' gregor 3.2mph with the same weight in it. your jon is pushing more water so i would expect lesser speeds.



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PostPosted: 07 Feb 2011, 10:05 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
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Location: GA
My 13ft v-hull runs 3.2 with a 55# on the back. I added a 55# up front and got 3.8 #-o

1 40# TM pushing a 12ft boat 4.3 is impressive. Most guys here that run all electric run 150# of thrust or better to get 4.5mph. That's with 2 adults, gear, 4-6 batteries etc...



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PostPosted: 11 Feb 2011, 10:09 
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Joined: 14 Jul 2008, 14:49
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Location: Jessup, MD
2006 Tracker 1436, speeds based on hand held GPS.

690lbs of people/batteries/gear, 50lb MK Endura transom mount trolling motor w/ Kipawa power prop: 4.4 MPH top speed (Speed setting 5, 100% Throttle) w/Walmart EverStart DC27 Batteries

695lbs of people/gear, but 80# MK Traxxis transom mount w/ Kipawa power prop: 4.9mph top speed (75% throttle) w/Kirkland DC27 batteries. We run the 80# @ 75% because there is no speed gain from 75%-100% and that gives us more run time.

The only thing to note when running all electric is that you need to move more of your weight to the front of the boat!!! I can't stress this enough. The flat cut transom creates a lot of drag in the water at trolling speeds and the more of it you get out of the water the faster you will go. Seems stupid but it's true. We gained literally 0.5 MPH just by moving the batteries to the front of the boat.

While this seems miniscule, that 0.5mph saves me 15 minutes of running time throughout the day, and it doesn't cost me anything to get it.

One last thing, EverStart DC27 batteries SUCK!!! Over the past 3 years I went through 6 of them. Luckily 4 where under warranty and got replaced for free. Every one of them leaked battery acid after just a couple months of use and it was evident that their maximum charge capacity would slightly diminish after every charge. I had plently of occasions where the front mount TM battery would die before the end of the day. After switching to the Kirkland batteries it's been a night and day difference. I will never buy another EverStart battery ever again.

And with electric only power displacement hull>flatbottom>Mod V>V-Hull.
If I could take two 1036 jon boats, cut the transom and 2 feet off the back of each, then weld both boats together, I would have the fastest TM powered boat on the water, haha.



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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2011, 01:20 

Joined: 09 Nov 2010, 00:57
Posts: 17
Location: Jacksonville, Fl/ Clemson, SC
Butthead wrote:
2006 Tracker 1436, speeds based on hand held GPS.

690lbs of people/batteries/gear, 50lb MK Endura transom mount trolling motor w/ Kipawa power prop: 4.4 MPH top speed (Speed setting 5, 100% Throttle) w/Walmart EverStart DC27 Batteries

695lbs of people/gear, but 80# MK Traxxis transom mount w/ Kipawa power prop: 4.9mph top speed (75% throttle) w/Kirkland DC27 batteries. We run the 80# @ 75% because there is no speed gain from 75%-100% and that gives us more run time.

The only thing to note when running all electric is that you need to move more of your weight to the front of the boat!!! I can't stress this enough. The flat cut transom creates a lot of drag in the water at trolling speeds and the more of it you get out of the water the faster you will go. Seems stupid but it's true. We gained literally 0.5 MPH just by moving the batteries to the front of the boat.

While this seems miniscule, that 0.5mph saves me 15 minutes of running time throughout the day, and it doesn't cost me anything to get it.

One last thing, EverStart DC27 batteries SUCK!!! Over the past 3 years I went through 6 of them. Luckily 4 where under warranty and got replaced for free. Every one of them leaked battery acid after just a couple months of use and it was evident that their maximum charge capacity would slightly diminish after every charge. I had plently of occasions where the front mount TM battery would die before the end of the day. After switching to the Kirkland batteries it's been a night and day difference. I will never buy another EverStart battery ever again.
And with electric only power displacement hull>flatbottom>Mod V>V-Hull.
If I could take two 1036 jon boats, cut the transom and 2 feet off the back of each, then weld both boats together, I would have the fastest TM powered boat on the water, haha.


I was planning on placing my batteries in front of the front bench, but i am unsure of the best way to connect them to the motor. If i am running 2 or 3 batteries in a series, what kind of wire would i use to connect them to the motor and can i just run them along the floor?


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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2011, 08:33 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 00:13
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Location: Bucks Co., PA
Good stuff about having the weight forward



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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2011, 12:43 
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John Redcorn wrote:
I was planning on placing my batteries in front of the front bench, but i am unsure of the best way to connect them to the motor. If i am running 2 or 3 batteries in a series, what kind of wire would i use to connect them to the motor and can i just run them along the floor?


Wire choice is based upon the amperage you would draw and the length of the wire being used. 8 gauge wire will work great on a 45lb motor with the length you will need. Decent crimp ring terminals should be adequate to connect to the batteries too. You'll have to decide how you want to connect the wire to your trolling motor though. Anderson quick disconnects are relatively cheap and easy. I made an insulated mounting bracket out of a thick plastic cutting board. I mounted it to the rear bench and then Drilled two holes for the stainless steel bolts to act as posts. I used crimp ring terminals on the power wires and the trolling motor wires, one nut to secure each bolt to the board, then a wing nut to tighten down the crimp rings. If you do something like this just make sure the bolts and wire connectors stay far enough away from each other and from the metal of the boat so you don't short anything out.

On my boat I have the hull chines that I can run wire through. It's fine on the floor just as long as you're not going to trip on it. Also, power wire for installing car audio gear tends to be pretty good for this kind of use.



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