1957 Evinrude 5.5 Fisherman lower unit oil

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2012-07-25_16-58-32_94.jpgI seem to have a small leak of oil from the shaft by the prop when the motor is stored horizontally. What kind of oil should be in there? How hard is it to replace the seal, and are they available?
 
MaineFisherman said:
I seem to have a small leak of oil from the shaft by the prop when the motor is stored horizontally. What kind of oil should be in there? How hard is it to replace the seal, and are they available?

90 weight gear oil(wichever brand you prefer).. very easy to replace and yes they are availible. dont store your motor horizontally, its motor abuse!!

remove your prop(nut and cotter pin)

you have 6 bolts that hold your skeg/fin to the lower unit, and 1 phillips head bolt. remove the phillips and 6 bolts. grab the prop shaft and hold it up before you pull the skeg off so the assembley does not fall out, after the skegs gone youll see the shaft,gears,bearings etc..there will be a yoke that holds a cradle on the dog( little gear between the big gears) let the yoke and cradle drop down or pull it down awayt from the dog, now you can remove the shaft with everything still on it to replace the seal on your hub(big round bearing closest to your hand when you grabbed the shaft before removing skeg) the seal is a o-ring type.

also inspect the gears to see if they are rounded or really worn....

that phillips head bolt goes through the yoke below the cradle to give it a pivot point to engage the dog into fwd or rev.
getting everything back together is a bit tricky, u may wanna have a xtra hand to help.

when its all back together, spin your prop while shifting from neutral to forward, back to neutral and then reverse to make sure its right.. pm me if you want to see a good diagram
 
shawnfish said:
MaineFisherman said:
I seem to have a small leak of oil from the shaft by the prop when the motor is stored horizontally. What kind of oil should be in there? How hard is it to replace the seal, and are they available?

dont store your motor horizontally, its motor abuse!!


also inspect the gears to see if they are rounded or really worn....

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I'd always thought storing a 2 stroke horizontally was ok- I'll keep it on the motor stand from now on. Is improper storage what caused it to leak? It's never leaked stored vertically.
 
Pappy said:
And do NOT run your engine on anything less than a mixture of 24:1. No matter what Billy Bob or Bubba the local mechanic says! That engine is a plain bearing engine and absolutely has to have the extra lubrication to survive long term.

I've been mixing at 1 pint per 3gal tank (actually a little less than 3 gals) which should be about 24:1

Is there a particular brand of oil that's best for these motors? I've been using the walmart stuff, TCW3 compliant
This motor gets a lot of use, nearly every day fishing in a saltwater tidal river, harbor, and bay. I've been amazed by how reliable it is. It doesn't move my 12' boat fast, but it gets me out and back every time, and is perfect for trolling for mackerel!
(would be awesome for trolling for striper too, if they ever came back to this area)
 
MaineFisherman said:
shawnfish said:
MaineFisherman said:
I seem to have a small leak of oil from the shaft by the prop when the motor is stored horizontally. What kind of oil should be in there? How hard is it to replace the seal, and are they available?

dont store your motor horizontally, its motor abuse!!


also inspect the gears to see if they are rounded or really worn....

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I'd always thought storing a 2 stroke horizontally was ok- I'll keep it on the motor stand from now on. Is improper storage what caused it to leak? It's never leaked stored vertically.


PROBALLY DIDNT CAUSE YOUR LEAK AND IT MAY BE OK TO STORE LIKE THAT, JUST THAT I WOULD NEVER LAY MY MOTOR ON ITS SIDE...
 
I run Johnson/Evinrude TCW3 oil.
You get what you pay for in outboard oil.
Most generic brands of TCW3 oils are just that..........they meet the minimum requirements for the TCW3 standard..........and no more.
The engine manufacturers, however, have specifications well over that of the minimum when having oil formulated for them. The additional bright stocks and additive packages are expensive but well worth it in terms of longevity and lubricity.
I guess a comparison here would be, in the automotive world, generic 10w-30 or Mobil 1? (Forget that M1 is synthetic, am just talking quality).
People will make claims that they haven't had problems with Walmart or Pennzoil but which would you rather run? How bout when your engine overheats and the engine is in need of those additives that have a higher heat threshold before break down?
Excellent, high quality oil is more expensive but in the quantities that you use in the 5 1/2?......well worth it.
 

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