It looks like I have more things to look into. I appreciate everyone's input. It seems like the top cap has more to do with being a finish than really making the transom sturdy. Is that a correct assumption?
I took some measurements, and the cavitation plate would still sit lower than the bottom of the hull if the transom were straight across the back. I don't know where I would find a plate for the top if the design were changed. I'm asking questions now so I can be prepared and know what to do...
I forgot to mention in my first post that my top cap is broken and needs to be replaced. I don't know where I could source that if the transom was changed to straight across.
The pictures in my first post are of the same model Starcraft, not my actual boat. I took measurements and if I made the transom straight across, the outboard's cavitation plate will still sit lower than the bottom of the hull. The cap on mine is broken, so I need to replace the wood and top cap.
I have a 12 ft Starcraft that I will be replacing the transom on hopefully this coming winter. The transom dips down a bit from edges to center about 1 1/4" (see pictures). Is there any reason I can't make it level with the back edges of the boat when I replace it? I have a 5hp outboard on it...
Better Call Saul is a great show. The series finale aired earlier this year. Also, if you haven't seen The Sopranos yet, it is definitely worth a watch.
They're not really tools but I use an electric Kobalt lawnmower, trimmer and blower that all use the same battery. They work really well and get the job done. The technology has come a long ways over the past several years.
I bet that impact makes quick work of most stuff, especially things that are a bit rusted. The drill press is one I use more than I expected. Good thing to have around.