Recent content by Fisheral87

Update with 1/2 inch conduit pop up blind and oar tower weldment.

SF, I think your idea for the gas/battery storage could be a good one, it would allow you to have seats and storage. My gas/battery are out in space and if I get a serious wild hair some day I may move them up under the forward deck out of the way to net me even more open floor space. That will...

SF, With respect to the removal of the seats, for this boat it has worked well. The ribs in addition to the piece at the beginning of the front deck provide good rigidity. I don't feel that the seats added much in the way of additional support for the design of my boat. It is difficult to say...

SF, I bought two gallons and rolled/brushed it on over two coats of primer. It has held ok so far. If I had to do it over I'd have got a tougher paint for the bottom, it is getting pretty banged up. I am going to camo it with some foliage green when I get the blind built. I still need to...

I'd like some opinions. Option 1: Two 10" NRS mounts welded onto the rail in order to row standing up. Option 2: Utilize the stock U-bolt to attach the mount to the rail Option 3: ? The rail is tubular but smaller in outside diameter than the NRS frames. I am concerned that the torque of...

Couple more pics tonight of the layout. I have a Suzuki DF25. I reinstalled it and headed out for a test run last Sunday. Boat was in the water, all the gear, dog, ready to go. The motor won't start. Misery. I get back to the house and test everything I can think of, no dice. For three days I...

Finished up the paint and bolted the new transom back in. Bolting took forever as there were numerous holes and I had to put two new ones in to properly attach the outboard. A small fortune in paint and hardware work out though, the transome is significantly more stable. I ended up not treating...

Decided not to replace either of the seats. The open floor plan is going to give me a lot more flexibility for rod/gun/general storage. The riveting worked really well, the only down side of hammering them in is the heads get squashed a bit. Finished up the paint job, i used Parker "sand tan"...

I hunted elk last weekend but managed to sand the rest of the bottom. This morning I got the primer on and plan to paint tomorrow. I am enlisting a couple buddies to get the inside sanded and prepped and the riveting done. Included my elk as well.

Mtydg, Thank you very much for the offer. I just ordered a bunch and I also have an in with an engineering company that set me up pretty well. The front of this boat has me a little worried, I don't have a plan yet. I also need to search out a lower cost option for primer/paint. Those boat...

Pulled the seat out and pressure washed. The paint wouldn't budge so getting some aircraft stripper to apply this weekend. Rivets on order.

I need to wait to get paid before I can buy rivets and paint and aircraft stripper. Tonight I drilled out the one side brace in order to get the transom wood in. After trying to flatten out the bolt holes on the transom the aluminum cracked between the two mounting holes. I figured JB weld it...

My concern with the motor is that it has bowed the transom due to, 1. The lack of a quality transom 2. Removal of the aluminum at the top center of the transom Any suggestions on rivet guns? :D

I think pulling one end is the way to go.

I hear you. One concern I have is that cutting it too short will not give me enough lower support for the outboard. I could leave it longer in the middle... I also considered cutting both of the brackets off and leaving the riveted portion attached. I don't see what I am gaining from them...