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Use soap with a scotch brite pad, then rinse. After it has dried wipe it down with straight vinegar, let it dry and paint. After painting pull your hull into full sun and let it bake on(I used hunter specialties OD green). That is what I did and no paint has come off yet after almost 3 yrs.

My only trouble has been where to mount both of the batteries since I added a bow mount trolling motor(I used 3/16 aluminum and closed up the front "V"). Last summer I put 1 battery near the drain, gas tank in front of the bench and the 2nd battery in front of the gas tank. It works good with...

I have the same boat as you do but with a different motor. Have fun with it.

I used 2"x1"x1/8" aluminum C channel.

Well I can't say the floor is cold, due to the fact there is a layer of insulation between the bottom of the boat and the new floor (see pics page 1). Plus the o.d. green paint in direct sunlight will offset any chilly feet.

Here are the pics of the new motor and pics of the fill in piece that goes between the sheet edge and the edge of the boat.

I covered the gap between the edge of the sheet and the side of the boat with 1 1/2"x1/8" aluminum. Cut each one to fit and riveted them in. If your gap is wider just use wider flat stock. This part takes some time, a lot of cutting and measuring of small parts, but it really makes the floor...

Well the only updates I have done to the boat was putting a new go-devil surface drive engine on the back of it.(I will try to get pics up)

Carpet turned out great. I like the cooler idea. And also the recessed trolling motor foot control is a great idea. It is turning out to be a great project, keep us posted.

As far as cutting the aluminum goes you can use a jig saw with a metal blade on the sheet, it will work just fine. No need to custom order any material sizes...that will bring your total up. The only tools I used for cutting are a jig saw, sawzall, cordless drill for the corners of the cuts...

No welding was done on the boat. Just rivets, so far so good everything is holding up great.

As far as water collecting on the floor I left a 1/2" gap between the end of the sheet and the rear seats so the water had somewhere to go. Water runs into the gap and to the back of the boat, I also installed a bilge pump just incase. The filler pieces for the sides of the sheet are made from...

Page #1 has 16 pics

Alumacraft web site says my 1648 NCS runs about 260lbs.

I'm going to answer all you're questions in order... The sheet thickness is 1/8". I ordered all of the materials through a local steel supply shop. I used rivets to attach the floor sheet and so far so good. The braces are attached with rivets as well, this step really stiffened up the...

I am not sure about the alloy. It is not very flexable at all. I had to stand on the ribs as I fastened them down but it worked very well. As far as the cost goes, it could just be a location to location cost difference. I don't know, this is what it cost because I'm looking at the invoice now.

Hey guys I paid $120 for a 4x8x1/8 sheet of aluminum and $42 for the 2x1x1/8 aluminum "C" channel(16'). This was alot cheaper than I thought it would be.

Just a thought... put one of your buddies in the front and run the boat, if you have no more slapping move your battery or gas tank up front.

Use a deep cycle battery. They are made to charge , run down and charge again.

You can check out all the materials and pics of mine on the conversions and mods posted as New Aluminum floor in a 1648. This floor is very sturdy.