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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1972 14' Sears Semi V Aluminum Boat. Need Guidance.
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<blockquote data-quote="Rat" data-source="post: 140484" data-attributes="member: 1914"><p>Removing the breasthook and installing another one will be fine, as long as the structural integrity is maintained, or improved. Assuming you want a bigger platform up front you could easily make a deck that has its highest point just below the rubrail. With the right amount of cleats and frames this would be as good as the existing one or better as far as structural integrity is concerned; plus you would have a nice deck for your trolling motor and stuff. </p><p></p><p>You will definitely need to use self etching primer on bare Aluminium. Many have used the rattle cans but I would suggest a two part mix like the Pettit ZC (Zinc Chromate) primer. There was also another product on another thread I just read today that seemed to work pretty well, but I can't remember the name of it. It was like luma lux or lux lite or something. In the long run, and doing a whole hull, the two part will be cheaper. </p><p></p><p>On testing the transom, I would drill a couple of test holes, maybe four depending on what the first few revealed, in different areas of the transom. These can be easily filled with epoxy glue or 5200, just stay away from the very center-line of the transom. This way if it is good you will not create nexus of forces. Do this when you get ready to build out, not while you are using the boat. If you do use it in the mean time you need to watch the transom when you are taking off and shutting down; if there is a lot of flex you will see it most then and will proly need to rebuild. </p><p></p><p>I agree with Nevillizer on the color scheme to match the seats. dark blue with a light cream or white maybe to set it off.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rat, post: 140484, member: 1914"] Removing the breasthook and installing another one will be fine, as long as the structural integrity is maintained, or improved. Assuming you want a bigger platform up front you could easily make a deck that has its highest point just below the rubrail. With the right amount of cleats and frames this would be as good as the existing one or better as far as structural integrity is concerned; plus you would have a nice deck for your trolling motor and stuff. You will definitely need to use self etching primer on bare Aluminium. Many have used the rattle cans but I would suggest a two part mix like the Pettit ZC (Zinc Chromate) primer. There was also another product on another thread I just read today that seemed to work pretty well, but I can't remember the name of it. It was like luma lux or lux lite or something. In the long run, and doing a whole hull, the two part will be cheaper. On testing the transom, I would drill a couple of test holes, maybe four depending on what the first few revealed, in different areas of the transom. These can be easily filled with epoxy glue or 5200, just stay away from the very center-line of the transom. This way if it is good you will not create nexus of forces. Do this when you get ready to build out, not while you are using the boat. If you do use it in the mean time you need to watch the transom when you are taking off and shutting down; if there is a lot of flex you will see it most then and will proly need to rebuild. I agree with Nevillizer on the color scheme to match the seats. dark blue with a light cream or white maybe to set it off. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1972 14' Sears Semi V Aluminum Boat. Need Guidance.
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