First off...great site. A wealth of information that is helping me during my boat/trailer restoration. Finished phase 1 of my project and finally got my boat out on the water.
bought a 1236 Alumacraft with Trailer. Trailer was in bad shape and Axles were shot. I used a grinder with wire brush to get all the rust off. Cut the tongue and had a new 2'' one welded on as part of previous tongue was bent and it was 1 7/8'' (I hate changing tow ball). I had a local trailer shop build me new axles. Primed and painted trailer, added lights and some other stuff
Just bought a 5 hp Mariner 4 stroke and added running lights to boat and took it out for first time (flounder gigging). Boat was perfect for shallow creeks, used push pole the entire time after running into sand bars, oysterbanks
just started next phase of project.
- Cut out middle seat
- add lightweight floor with foam backing (recycled foam from seat I cut)
- paint inside with duraback and add carpet
- add fuse panel, switch panel, interior lights, fish finder, bow mounted spotlights
- add spotlights to trailer for loading/unloading at night
- paint exterior of boat and add decals;
Phase 3
- add jack plate
- replace 5hp mariner with 10 - 15 hp surface drive mud motor (mud buddy hd lite or copperhead)
I have some tan duck paint but I'm looking into something like steel flex, frog spit or gator glide since I'll be adding mud motor... only concern is how it holds up with rocks, oyster shells.
lessons learned
- wire brush + grinder will shoot tiny wires from the brush into your flesh like a dart gun.
- if you don't install a keel roller with a stop your boat will run up onto the winch no matter how you strap it down
- tightening nylon lock nuts on a long winded bolt is the ultimate test of my patience...
- buy a $3 trailer wire tester to make sure the problem isn't with your tow vehicles wiring before you go mucking with your trailer wiring
- when unloading boat in the dark at low tide make sure the boat ramp is long enough and doesn't abruptly stop before you back your trailer/boat into mud (luckily I have 4wd)
- bring a small piece of wire with you in the boat if you are running in shallow water; keep an eye on motor and if it stops peeing or it is not a strong stream use the wire to clean out the outlet/inlet (I kept sucking up sand)
bought a 1236 Alumacraft with Trailer. Trailer was in bad shape and Axles were shot. I used a grinder with wire brush to get all the rust off. Cut the tongue and had a new 2'' one welded on as part of previous tongue was bent and it was 1 7/8'' (I hate changing tow ball). I had a local trailer shop build me new axles. Primed and painted trailer, added lights and some other stuff
Just bought a 5 hp Mariner 4 stroke and added running lights to boat and took it out for first time (flounder gigging). Boat was perfect for shallow creeks, used push pole the entire time after running into sand bars, oysterbanks
just started next phase of project.
- Cut out middle seat
- add lightweight floor with foam backing (recycled foam from seat I cut)
- paint inside with duraback and add carpet
- add fuse panel, switch panel, interior lights, fish finder, bow mounted spotlights
- add spotlights to trailer for loading/unloading at night
- paint exterior of boat and add decals;
Phase 3
- add jack plate
- replace 5hp mariner with 10 - 15 hp surface drive mud motor (mud buddy hd lite or copperhead)
I have some tan duck paint but I'm looking into something like steel flex, frog spit or gator glide since I'll be adding mud motor... only concern is how it holds up with rocks, oyster shells.
lessons learned
- wire brush + grinder will shoot tiny wires from the brush into your flesh like a dart gun.
- if you don't install a keel roller with a stop your boat will run up onto the winch no matter how you strap it down
- tightening nylon lock nuts on a long winded bolt is the ultimate test of my patience...
- buy a $3 trailer wire tester to make sure the problem isn't with your tow vehicles wiring before you go mucking with your trailer wiring
- when unloading boat in the dark at low tide make sure the boat ramp is long enough and doesn't abruptly stop before you back your trailer/boat into mud (luckily I have 4wd)
- bring a small piece of wire with you in the boat if you are running in shallow water; keep an eye on motor and if it stops peeing or it is not a strong stream use the wire to clean out the outlet/inlet (I kept sucking up sand)
