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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Greetings! And... SmokerCraft Re-build
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<blockquote data-quote="bonz_d" data-source="post: 403484" data-attributes="member: 11276"><p>I use ACX for a couple of reasons. 1; most BCX or CDX 1/2" ply that I've seen is only 4 ply and has open voids in both sides of the veneer where as the ACX always has one side that is clear and is 5 ply making it a bit stiffer. 2; When laying vinyl it is best to have a clear flat side to glue to. Any voids gives a place for the vinyl to start to delaminate or bubble. I've always used a weighted roller to roll out the vinyl or carpet onto the adhesive and have yet to have one start to pull up. The cost difference between ACX and BCX is usually less tan $6.00 a sheet.</p><p></p><p>Regardless of which method you use to seal the plywood it is always best to do both sides as rot normally starts from underneath as moisture gets trapped there. It is also wise to cut any holes and predrill for fasteners when you can before sealing and pay extra attention to all sides were the ply's are exposed.</p><p></p><p>The 1st boat I've done with this method was a Lund S14 DLX and it is now 7 years old and still looks almost as good as day one. Though it is kept clean and allowed to dry out after use. Also the 2 boats in my sig. will also be done with this method.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bonz_d, post: 403484, member: 11276"] I use ACX for a couple of reasons. 1; most BCX or CDX 1/2" ply that I've seen is only 4 ply and has open voids in both sides of the veneer where as the ACX always has one side that is clear and is 5 ply making it a bit stiffer. 2; When laying vinyl it is best to have a clear flat side to glue to. Any voids gives a place for the vinyl to start to delaminate or bubble. I've always used a weighted roller to roll out the vinyl or carpet onto the adhesive and have yet to have one start to pull up. The cost difference between ACX and BCX is usually less tan $6.00 a sheet. Regardless of which method you use to seal the plywood it is always best to do both sides as rot normally starts from underneath as moisture gets trapped there. It is also wise to cut any holes and predrill for fasteners when you can before sealing and pay extra attention to all sides were the ply's are exposed. The 1st boat I've done with this method was a Lund S14 DLX and it is now 7 years old and still looks almost as good as day one. Though it is kept clean and allowed to dry out after use. Also the 2 boats in my sig. will also be done with this method. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Greetings! And... SmokerCraft Re-build
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