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Topdog1125

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Dec 23, 2023
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Orlando, FL
Hey guys i just recently purchased 1958 14ft Lonestar Commander. This is my first boat and there are several things improvements i would like to make to her. I'd like to start by cleaning the inner hull and repainting it. Then probably a deck and a Bimini topper, and of course the motor. First things first though, what would you guys suggest to remove the old paint? and what you recommend I use to repaint it? I look forward to sharing my progess with you guys and hearing your feedback.
 

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If it was me, I would first understand what I expect the final product to be. Do you want a boat that will win "Best in Show" restoration? Or factory fresh with perfect paint? Or "presentable" and ready for use within a couple weeks?

I'm of the third variety. I bought a 1979 Lund as the Pandemic started. It was watertight, but looked like a pig boat when I bought it. I stripped the outer hull and painted the upper half bright red as it was when it was new.

I still haven't re-painted the inner hull.

For stripping, I have only used mechanical stripping methods (polycarbide abrasive wheels) and some sandpaper. I'm not necessarily against chemicals, but I reckoned that I'd save very little time by using chemical strippers. They're also expensive. However, if you're looking the "Best in Show" variety, then you might want chemical strippers and remove every speck of old paint.

For paint, I opted for Krylon or Rustoleum Farm and Implement paint. I used a brush and roller; both paints flow well. Those paints also cure hard, but take 1-2 weeks to reach full hardness. Both brands run $15-20 per quart at the home improvement stores. Of the two brands, Krylon performed a bit better for me, but Rustoleum was easier to obtain on a quick run to town.

On the inner hull, I wouldn't mess with anything that can't be seen, like areas below any decks that you install. In my view, it's simply not worth it.

Good luck and keep us posted with progress!

Others will disagree and take great pride in making everything perfect. That's fine and certainly their choice. My hobby is fishing. Painting boats doesn't even make the my Top 100 list of favorite things to do.
 
I more just want to protect the hull, she's close to 70 and I want to make sure she survives to see 100. I'm not a perfectionist I'm a fisherman, but I do want to at least keep her presentable. I am kind of hesitant to take an angle grinder to her, but I do have a palm sander and I'm confident that a lot of it will come off with a pressure washer. I'm pretty sure this is the original paint, whats the chances of this stuff being lead based?
 
I more just want to protect the hull, she's close to 70 and I want to make sure she survives to see 100. I'm not a perfectionist I'm a fisherman, but I do want to at least keep her presentable. I am kind of hesitant to take an angle grinder to her, but I do have a palm sander and I'm confident that a lot of it will come off with a pressure washer. I'm pretty sure this is the original paint, whats the chances of this stuff being lead based?
Very little, lead paint was not used on aluminum boats. Rather than an angle grinder most use wire brushes and some type of paint remover. If it comes off easy strip it, but you may find some that doesn't to come off easy so leave it. If it is stuck that good, just paint over it !! Many use rustoleum exterior enamal, others get fancy wuth auto paint. I have good results with rustoleum enamal. Others will chime in with their experiences..
 
This is what those polycarbide wheels look like:

Screen Shot 2023-12-24 at 8.40.35 PM.png

They're what I used to remove the old paint and clean the decades old layer of grime on the boat. These wheels have the abrasive being carried by a friable polyurethane backer. I had no issue with the wheels digging into the aluminum.

Here's my boat the day I towed it home:

Boat.jpg

And after using the polycarbide wheels on my angle grinder:

boat pre-paint.jpg

And after painting with the Krylon Farm and Implement Paint:

boat painted 2.jpg

I just painted the boat bottom a couple of months ago, and now I'm working on the trailer. Almost there.
 
She's beauty man, i got to do a lot on my trailer too, but one thing at a time. I have to store her in the water is anything i should be concerned about? Its freshwater so no barnacles but anything i should watch out for ?
 
I'm fortunate that I have an indoor place for storage. I've never left it in the water overnight. I might at some point in the future if I drag it along on one of my group outings to Minnesota or Canada.

The real issue with leaving the boat out in the weather is debris accumulation in the boat. Leaves, trash, and other debris will collect and provide a holding place for water. Also, stuff gets wet and if it stays wet for a long time, rot will set in. It's just the nature of the beast. You'll need to take that into consideration when choosing materials for decks. You'll also have to keep up with that. Also -- no matter what materials you use, the effects of UV light and the hot sun will take their toll on the your rig.

Take the long view with your boat, and do manageable things over time. To me, that's the real key to having fun with your boat.

I've had my boat four complete seasons now; it has been a long term project. I bought it in May 2020; I fought with the outboard for that season, and 2020 was a bust as far as any fishing was concerned. But I did get the upper portion of the boat hull painted and cleaned out a lot of the hull. I made the trailer road-worthy again.

2021 was the first year of "real" use of the boat. I bit the bullet and bought a new 20HP Merc Four Stroke. That was the 2021 big upgrade. I also fixed the seats, which were a safety hazard.

2022's big upgrade was a new trolling motor. The old one was a mess. A new 100AH lithium battery now powers the TM and electronics. I also rebuilt the decks which were getting soft.

2023 saw the addition of new electronics (H-bird Helix 7), as well as reconfiguration/repurpose of the hidden areas of the boat. I added stowage compartments for tackle (as cheaply as possible), moved the cranking battery and lithium battery to center bench to even out the weight distribution.

Since end of the 2023 fishing season, I've been modifying the trailer and finally painting the rest of the bottom of the boat. I painted the rest of the bottom black with the Rustoleum Farm and Implement Paint. I made the trailer 45" longer for better towing and easier launch and recovery. I'm rewiring the trailer and painting all of it before I put the boat back on it.

All told, I bought the boat, trailer, and motor for $1200. With all the upgrades and work, I have about $7K into it. It's actually turning into a pretty decent little fishing boat. I can launch and recover all alone, though I have no shortage of friends who are willing to ride along on any given day. I've even quit wishing that I could get a brand new boat.
 
Congrats on the purchase! I'd first be sure she is watertight. Check condition of rivets and seams and look for corrosion.

Then as suggested to remove paint....try paint remover, palm sander, and the poly wheel....in that order....least to more aggressive. The wire wheel I'd be concerned about using because it's on the exterior finish side of the hull. It may leave swirl scratches that would then need to be sanded to remove. You are looking for the smoothest metal finish you can attain. This will result in a better finish paint job. And keep in mind...all of this preparation and its steps are what become a nice final paint job!

There are tons of info on this site on paint types, decking, electronics, etc.

Let the projects begin and have fun!!
 
Last edited:
This is what those polycarbide wheels look like:

View attachment 118396

They're what I used to remove the old paint and clean the decades old layer of grime on the boat. These wheels have the abrasive being carried by a friable polyurethane backer. I had no issue with the wheels digging into the aluminum.

Here's my boat the day I towed it home:

View attachment 118397

And after using the polycarbide wheels on my angle grinder:

View attachment 118398

And after painting with the Krylon Farm and Implement Paint:

View attachment 118399

I just painted the boat bottom a couple of months ago, and now I'm working on the trailer. Almost there.
Hmmmm...learn something new all the time...never would have thought those would be a good idea...
 
I find that regular sanding disks and flap disks on angle grinders can remove much more metal or dig gouges in aluminum very easily.

I also have a compliment of palm sanders, random orbit sanders, and oscillating tool attachments. They are very slow for paint removal. I can see why people think they must need chemical strippers if their experience is based on the performance of tools really intended for woodworking tasks.

In my opinion, that friable medium of the polycarbide disk is the key to its performance. The disk gradually wears away as the job goes on. It took two of those disks to strip the paint from my boat.
 
I more just want to protect the hull, she's close to 70 and I want to make sure she survives to see 100. I'm not a perfectionist I'm a fisherman, but I do want to at least keep her presentable. I am kind of hesitant to take an angle grinder to her, but I do have a palm sander and I'm confident that a lot of it will come off with a pressure washer. I'm pretty sure this is the original paint, whats the chances of this stuff being lead based?

If the current paint is in decent shape, I wouldn't remove it. I would sand then paint over it.
 

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