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Electrical
new boat, now trolling motor conenctions get hot
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<blockquote data-quote="longjohn119" data-source="post: 140633" data-attributes="member: 2826"><p>Depends ... If the breaker is 50 amps and the wire can only handle 40 amps it's going to get hot well before it blows the breaker. Either you have a bad connection or the wire is too small to handle the current. Cycling the motor on and off a lot can make the wires get hot before the breaker blows. Motors tend to draw considerably more than their rated current on start up and most breakers have a 'time delay' so they don't pop everytime the motor starts. So if you start and stop a lot the wire can get hot without popping the breaker. Couple that with a wire size that's on the fringe of it's current range and you get problems. </p><p></p><p>It doesn't happen very often but every once in a while a breaker will fail closed if the contacts weld themselves. So you not only have a breaker that doesn't blow, the pitted contacts have resistance (loss) and resistance (loss) = heat</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="longjohn119, post: 140633, member: 2826"] Depends ... If the breaker is 50 amps and the wire can only handle 40 amps it's going to get hot well before it blows the breaker. Either you have a bad connection or the wire is too small to handle the current. Cycling the motor on and off a lot can make the wires get hot before the breaker blows. Motors tend to draw considerably more than their rated current on start up and most breakers have a 'time delay' so they don't pop everytime the motor starts. So if you start and stop a lot the wire can get hot without popping the breaker. Couple that with a wire size that's on the fringe of it's current range and you get problems. It doesn't happen very often but every once in a while a breaker will fail closed if the contacts weld themselves. So you not only have a breaker that doesn't blow, the pitted contacts have resistance (loss) and resistance (loss) = heat [/QUOTE]
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new boat, now trolling motor conenctions get hot
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