Old Meyers transom repair questions

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

870 ExpressMag

Active member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
27
Reaction score
2
I have an older two piece hull, 15ft Meyers aluminum boat. The transom wood is soft and I need to replace it. I have a couple questions as Im not sure how to proceed. First questions, most boat transoms are 1 1/2", this one is 2" and doesnt ever look like it's been apart, and the top cap is exactly 2". Is this because the boats older, or because it used to be a side console boat with a larger engine capacity so the transom is thicker? That leads me to the next issue, I want to hang my 3hp evinrude on the back for the no wake lakes we go to, it wont fit on the 2" transom, id like to make the transom thinner, but the top cap is for 2", and I also have a splash well bolted to the inside of the transom, as well as two braces on the boat floor that bolt to the transom wood so a thinner transom wouldnt allow these to bolt up. Also, i know it's not the best pic, but you can see the basics of what i'm dealing with, has anyone ever replaced one of these before? doesnt look as cut and dried as some of the transom jobs on aluminum boats. There is transom wood on the inside, and outside of the boat, im assuming this sandwhiches the aluminum skin. I found marine plywood at Menards, but it's only available in 3/4 or 1/2. so if i rebuilt to 2" thick i would need to make 4 pieces from the 1/2 and glue em all together. if i did the 3/4 and did two pieces. now it's a 1/2' smaller than the top cap and wont bolt up to the splash well and the floor braces
 

Attachments

  • boat.jpeg
    boat.jpeg
    156.5 KB · Views: 0
It would be helpful if you attached different pics showing a little more of the transom. If I understand, you have a wood pad on the outside of the transom. If you removed that would your 3HP fit? Additionally, it looks to me like you have a kicker bracket on the transom. If so, could you mount your 3HP there?
 
IMG_1834.jpegIMG_1832.jpegIMG_1831.jpegIMG_1825.jpegIMG_1824.jpegIt would be helpful if you attached different pics showing a little more of the transom. If I understand, you have a wood pad on the outside of the transom. If you removed that would your 3HP fit? Additionally, it looks to me like you have a kicker bracket on the transom. If so, could you mount your 3HP there?
I can’t remove the wood on the outside of the transom, as it is inside the top cap and the corner gusset. I don’t put the 3 hp on the kicker mount as it’s hard to get to from the rear seat. The trolling motor I put on that mount has a telescoping handle making it easier to use. Here are some more pics.
 
Could you bolt on a mini jacker or something just for set back the is the correct thickness of your motor.
 
I can’t remove the wood on the outside of the transom, as it is inside the top cap and the corner gusset. I don’t put the 3 hp on the kicker mount as it’s hard to get to from the rear seat. The trolling motor I put on that mount has a telescoping handle making it easier to use. Here are some more pics.

If you are going to replace the transom wood, you might need to pull the top and corner caps.

I don't know anything about Meyers boats. That outside transom wood has me scratching my head. Is this something that was done by a previous owner? Looking at one of the corner cap pics doesn't look like original fit to me -- looks like it was modified/cut to fit. Based on the pic of the knee brace, it looks like the interior transom wood thickness is original.

Not much help I'm afraid.
 
Can't believe your 3 up won't open up far enough....I have a little 2.2 up Merchant and it opens up to 2"... If your going to replace the transom, going down to 1 1/2" won't be a problem at all. Just make sure you use a good plywood to build it. Modifying the top cap should be pretty easy. Mabry not pretty but not a problem.
 
Could you bolt on a mini jacker or something just for set back the is the correct thickness of your motor.
I could probably get some sort of jack plate to bolt to the transom that would accommodate all of my motors. I have a 25HP 18HP and 3HP Evinrudes, and a 16HP Oliver

If you are going to replace the transom wood, you might need to pull the top and corner caps.

I don't know anything about Meyers boats. That outside transom wood has me scratching my head. Is this something that was done by a previous owner? Looking at one of the corner cap pics doesn't look like original fit to me -- looks like it was modified/cut to fit. Based on the pic of the knee brace, it looks like the interior transom wood thickness is original.

Not much help I'm afraid.
I believe it to be original on the outside, at least in design, due to the top cap, and other pictures I have seen online of the same boat. The rust on the rear corner gusset fasteners has me thinking maybe someone removed and replaced the rear board at one time? But the corner gussets are definitely original with the original rivets along the sides. Heres a couple pics of another one i found online
15-ft-meyers-alum-boat-with-galvanized-trailer-3.jpg15-ft-meyers-alum-boat-with-galvanized-trailer-6.jpg

Can't believe your 3 up won't open up far enough....I have a little 2.2 up Merchant and it opens up to 2"... If your going to replace the transom, going down to 1 1/2" won't be a problem at all. Just make sure you use a good plywood to build it. Modifying the top cap should be pretty easy. Mabry not pretty but not a problem.
it's open as far as it can go and still wont slide over, there is an extra piece of tin someone placed on mine, probably due to the rear board getting soft, which is what im trying to remedy, but it's been that way ever since i bought it in 2012. I dont think removing that tin would still allow the 3hp to attach.
70752094491__33943BC1-B4C5-45B3-9C16-631DDB1927F9.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing the comparisons pic's. If you have to replace the transom wood anyway, I would consider redoing with a total of 1 1/2" or 1 3/4". It would require a new transom cap.
 
Thanks for sharing the comparisons pic's. If you have to replace the transom wood anyway, I would consider redoing with a total of 1 1/2" or 1 3/4". It would require a new transom cap.
I’m worried that would affect how the splash well and floor corner braces would attach as I don’t want to remove and relocate either piece
 
Thanks for sharing the comparisons pic's. If you have to replace the transom wood anyway, I would consider redoing with a total of 1 1/2" or 1 3/4". It would require a new transom cap.
The way the transom cap is cut to make the bends makes me think it's not original. Keep the inner wood the same thickness and do a 2-piece outer. A thinner outer wood piece along the upper part of the transom where a motor clamps on and the top cap goes on. A thicker piece of wood where the corner caps are. You will have to make a new top cap.
 
The way the transom cap is cut to make the bends makes me think it's not original. Keep the inner wood the same thickness and do a 2-piece outer. A thinner outer wood piece along the upper part of the transom where a motor clamps on and the top cap goes on. A thicker piece of wood where the corner caps are. You will have to make a new top cap.
Every picture ive seen of other boats just like this one, all look the same, i posted some above, I believe the top cap is original
 
The way the transom cap is cut to make the bends makes me think it's not original. Keep the inner wood the same thickness and do a 2-piece outer. A thinner outer wood piece along the upper part of the transom where a motor clamps on and the top cap goes on. A thicker piece of wood where the corner caps are. You will have to make a new top cap.

I was thinking keep the transom a uniform thickness and reinstall the corner caps just a little forward. They would have to be removed anyway so could be reinstalled to fit the new transom thickness. Either way, a new transom top cap is in the cards.
 

Latest posts

Top