TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Blog
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
** SeaArk 1652 Bass Boat Conversion - "The Dirty Oar" **
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support TinBoats.net:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="ATW" data-source="post: 412229" data-attributes="member: 12477"><p>The rear seat mount worked out pretty slick-- Before carpeting, I added a 1" square aluminum tube that runs the length of the open hatch in the rear-- this is so I can rivet the rear hatch cover onto it as well as provide some much needed support for the pedestal mount since riveting the hatch and bolting the seats to thin aluminum jon boat sheet metal wasnt happening.</p><p></p><p>Since I added 1/8" aluminum sheet on top of of the rear seat, I figured toggle bolts would suffice for the front 3 bolts holes of the seat mount and provide enough coverage to support weight. The rear 3 bolts would be through that piece of aluminum square stock I aforementioned and provide the brunt of the stability. I cut 3 3/4" holes for the toggle setup in the middle of the bench.. the toggle nuts are a 5/16-18 thread that I ordered online.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/andys_addiction/20160426_194938_zpsv47punzh.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>It worked out well. There is some flex in the bench but it's not coming out-- I gave it the ol' earthquake test with my 220lb frame-- best of all, still no wood used.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/andys_addiction/20160426_195443_zpswngbugdv.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ATW, post: 412229, member: 12477"] The rear seat mount worked out pretty slick-- Before carpeting, I added a 1" square aluminum tube that runs the length of the open hatch in the rear-- this is so I can rivet the rear hatch cover onto it as well as provide some much needed support for the pedestal mount since riveting the hatch and bolting the seats to thin aluminum jon boat sheet metal wasnt happening. Since I added 1/8" aluminum sheet on top of of the rear seat, I figured toggle bolts would suffice for the front 3 bolts holes of the seat mount and provide enough coverage to support weight. The rear 3 bolts would be through that piece of aluminum square stock I aforementioned and provide the brunt of the stability. I cut 3 3/4" holes for the toggle setup in the middle of the bench.. the toggle nuts are a 5/16-18 thread that I ordered online. [img]https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/andys_addiction/20160426_194938_zpsv47punzh.jpg[/img] It worked out well. There is some flex in the bench but it's not coming out-- I gave it the ol' earthquake test with my 220lb frame-- best of all, still no wood used. [img]https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/andys_addiction/20160426_195443_zpswngbugdv.jpg[/img] [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
** SeaArk 1652 Bass Boat Conversion - "The Dirty Oar" **
Top