1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

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Nussy
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Joined: 03 Oct 2009, 21:11
Location: Green Bay, WI

1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 11:41

Well, this site gave me the sickness :LOL2: . Considering I finished my winter project boat in early November, I decided I had so much fun doing it I'd take on another project to keep me occupied for the cold Wisconsin Winter, and try to sell it in the spring. This one will be a bit more intense than the last. Hopefully, I'm not getting in over my head. I decided to call this post "Re-birth of Tin 2" since the boat is the same model as one CrappieReaper re-did about a year ago.
Pic 1.jpg
Here she is a 1980 17' Traveler by Sea Nymph. Picked this beauty up off Craigslist for $550. It has 25HP Chrysler(haven't run it yet, but was assured it ran. I'll have a mechanic friend take look at it), Garmin Fishfinder, electric anchor mate, and a 36 lb Minn Kota Transom Mount Trolling Motor. I thought I couldn't go wrong for that price. What do you think?
Side.JPG
Steering Wheel.JPG
Right Rod Locker.JPG
Bow to Rear.JPG
Quartering.JPG
Rear Deck.JPG
Rear Deck.JPG (40.6 KiB) Viewed 14074 times
Bow Storage.JPG
The previous owner has started to rebuild it but never came close to finishing it. He had pretty much everything already purchase that came with it. New seats and extra pedistals. Also threw in some odds and ends pictured below and a bunch of extra carpet and treated plywood.
Stuff.JPG
At this point, I'm on the fence about what to do. The previous owner had replaced the front deck and the mid deck with treated plywood and the ugly green carpeting. I'm considering replacing this for a few reasons. 1. The fact that he used treated wood 2. The carpet is cheap and ugly.....but I have enough extra carpet to finish the boat currently. 3. If I replace the deck I could take out some of the foam and put in some bow storage compartments.

The rear under deck(below raised deck) should probably be replaced but that means pulling out all the aluminum in the rear of the boat. The transom seams OK but, but most of it is covered with aluminum so I can't verify the whole thing is structurally sound.

I'm told the boat does leak a little. I'll probaly steelflex the bottom to try to solve this problem after going through and checking the rivets(another reason why I might remove the decks). I was also thinking about Brazing the seams with Alumiweld, Durafix, or HTS-2000. I've never done it before but I thought it might be a good idea since there appears to be a lot of seams in this boat. What do you think of this idea?

The trailer really need some work. Wiring and lights work but it's really rusted and has old wiring just hanging off of it on the ground(I thought this was weird). I figured I'd just grind off the rust and hit it with some rustoleum. Also redo to bunks.
Trailer.JPG
Feel free to provide your suggestions!!!!

Xtremeboats
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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 11:52

Guys, looking for your thoughts on the livewell as well. The livewell is under the driver's seat. I believe nothing is connected and is doesn't work. I'm not sure that I like the placement of it since it's hard to access because the seat will hit the steering wheel. Also I'm trying to figure out what the whole in the side of the boat it for. Was it for an overflow, a pumped out drain, or an intake? I haven't had it in the water so I"m not sure where the waterline is on the boat. It looks like the previous owner had simply plugged it up.
Livewell.JPG
Livewell Overflow2.JPG
Livewell Overflow.JPG
Any suggestions?

That Robbie Guy

1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by That Robbie Guy » 07 Dec 2009, 12:30

That is an absolutely wonderful platform.

I can't wait to see how the boat turns out !

I only wish to find such a deal when i'm searching.

danmyersmn
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by danmyersmn » 07 Dec 2009, 12:47

That Robbie Guy wrote:That is an absolutely wonderful platform.

I can't wait to see how the boat turns out !

I only wish to find such a deal when i'm searching.
That hole is an overflow. It's interesting that it is on the same side as the spraybar. I would take a look at how easy it would be to move the spraybar. If it could be done easy enough I would move it to the otherside to allow freshwater to flow across the livewell before going out the overflow.

Ditch the wood and green carpet. Replace it with something you prefer or you will always wish you did.

Do not braze the seams with alumiweld/HTS-2000. First the seams are going to have a sealant material pressed into them from manufacture. You will burn that out and cause more problems then your hoping to fix. Second, after doing this task for thirty minutes or so your going to wonder what you where thinking and why you started doing it. :mrgreen: If your concerned about the seams and you don't think that Steel-flex is going to be enough of a sealant then use gluv-it on the inside. It will be cheaper and easier in the end and give you a better seal then trying to flow HTS2000 into the seam.
LEFT is right! The reel handle is properly oriented when it is on the left side.

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 13:02

danmyersmn wrote:
That Robbie Guy wrote:That is an absolutely wonderful platform.

I can't wait to see how the boat turns out !

I only wish to find such a deal when i'm searching.
That hole is an overflow. It's interesting that it is on the same side as the spraybar. I would take a look at how easy it would be to move the spraybar. If it could be done easy enough I would move it to the otherside to allow freshwater to flow across the livewell before going out the overflow.

Ditch the wood and green carpet. Replace it with something you prefer or you will always wish you did.

Do not braze the seams with alumiweld/HTS-2000. First the seams are going to have a sealant material pressed into them from manufacture. You will burn that out and cause more problems then your hoping to fix. Second, after doing this task for thirty minutes or so your going to wonder what you where thinking and why you started doing it. :mrgreen: If your concerned about the seams and you don't think that Steel-flex is going to be enough of a sealant then use gluv-it on the inside. It will be cheaper and easier in the end and give you a better seal then trying to flow HTS2000 into the seam.
Thaks Dan, I looked at Gluvit online yesterday, It's not cheap stuff. What do you think about bedliner on the inside. Most of it will be covered by the wood decks and the aluminum boxes, but i thought it might seal it up well, just in case the Steelflex didn't seal everything.

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jasper60103
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by jasper60103 » 07 Dec 2009, 13:26

Looks like a nice project. I like the mod-v hull.

I know what you mean about long winters. Originally from Chicago
I know crappy weather, but Minnesota gets
about 6 months of winter and winter like weather.
Its really hard if you're not into winter sports/activities.
I watch craigslist a lot and been tempted to pickup a 2nd motor to tinker with, but
keep talking myself out of it.

Good luck with your project. I'm sure it will be fun.
2018 Tracker Grizzly 1648
2018 30 HP Suzuki DF30A

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 13:43

jasper60103 wrote:Looks like a nice project. I like the mod-v hull.

I know what you mean about long winters. Originally from Chicago
I know crappy weather, but Minnesota gets
about 6 months of winter and winter like weather.
Its really hard if you're not into winter sports/activities.
I watch craigslist a lot and been tempted to pickup a 2nd motor to tinker with, but
keep talking myself out of it.

Good luck with your project. I'm sure it will be fun.
I know what you mean about talking yourself out of it. The guy posted this boat over a month ago without any pics and a bad add. I had him send me pics and after seeing it, I thought it was a good deal for the $700 he listed it fo. I went to look at it twice. I scared myself out of it last weekend and told the guy I just had a bad feeling about it and left. After thinking about it all week I was able to get him down to $550 yesterday and pulled the trigger. Figured I could part it out for that and get my money back. It helped seeing CrappieReaper's build on this Forum. It gave me the confidence that I could turn this into a nice rig.

danmyersmn
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by danmyersmn » 07 Dec 2009, 17:08

I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long.

I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive!

I think that everything has been tested enough to say that you should use steel flex on the outside, gluv-it on the inside and everything else is just sub-par to the two. I am the first person to give another option a try and see how it turns out; however, if you want to use something that works instead of pioneering something then we know what those are.

If it was mine I would gluv-it the inside and skip the steel-flex. I change my mind too many times on paint color to order the steel-flex before I am ready to put it on. #-o
LEFT is right! The reel handle is properly oriented when it is on the left side.

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 17:30

danmyersmn wrote:I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long.

I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive!

I think that everything has been tested enough to say that you should use steel flex on the outside, gluv-it on the inside and everything else is just sub-par to the two. I am the first person to give another option a try and see how it turns out; however, if you want to use something that works instead of pioneering something then we know what those are.

If it was mine I would gluv-it the inside and skip the steel-flex. I change my mind too many times on paint color to order the steel-flex before I am ready to put it on. #-o
Thanks for the insight. Your paint job definitely looks awesome. Something you won't get with Steelflex. I might have to look a bit more at the Gluv-it.

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Loggerhead Mike
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Loggerhead Mike » 07 Dec 2009, 18:35

where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 07 Dec 2009, 18:46

Loggerhead Mike wrote:where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak
Not sure yet, have to tear a few things apart and leak test it to find out where the leaks are. Just picked it up last night.

danmyersmn
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by danmyersmn » 07 Dec 2009, 19:25

Nussy wrote:
Loggerhead Mike wrote:where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak
Not sure yet, have to tear a few things apart and leak test it to find out where the leaks are. Just picked it up last night.

Well while your waiting on deciding what all to do with it you could put it back on craig's list for $1000.00 ;)
LEFT is right! The reel handle is properly oriented when it is on the left side.

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 08 Dec 2009, 09:07

danmyersmn wrote:
Nussy wrote:
Loggerhead Mike wrote:where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak
Not sure yet, have to tear a few things apart and leak test it to find out where the leaks are. Just picked it up last night.

Well while your waiting on deciding what all to do with it you could put it back on craig's list for $1000.00 ;)
That's not a bad idea...... but then what am I going to do with myself all winter...icefish?

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dyeguy1212
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by dyeguy1212 » 08 Dec 2009, 13:35

cool boat

whats the bottom width?

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Nussy
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1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

Post by Nussy » 08 Dec 2009, 14:43

dyeguy1212 wrote:cool boat

whats the bottom width?
It's about 50" at the stern.

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