To much boat for my vehicle?

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Kdsheen

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Hi all. Pretty sure this is one of my first posts here. I purchased a clean 2001 Chaparral 196SSi with the 5.0 this past weekend. Very well maintained and only used on lakes. 531 hours. My question is this. I have a 99 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.4 V6, 4x4 and a manual. Vehicles weights 3400 lbs. Max tow rating is 5000 lbs. I have trailered and launched my buddy’s 16 ft center console a handful of times and no issues. That boat is 1700 lbs though vs this one being about 4600 with fuel, trailer and boat.

I am concerned about two things, one getting pulled into the water/sliding in and two being able to pull this boat out of the water. I think in 4 low I will be ok.

I have wheel chocks for the front and rear tire and obviously will use my e-brake and put it in first gear when I unload.

Do I need to upgrade to something heavier ASAP to launch this boat? I towed it home 70 miles and had no issues.
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The big thing to worry about is when someone cuts in front of you on highway. With ll that weight behind you you could jack-knife or otherwise loose control. The trailer should have brakes but it is still questionable in my book.

I would definiitely let you insurance company know what you are towing, so if an accident happens they will cover you.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
The big thing to worry about is when someone cuts in front of you on highway. With ll that weight behind you you could jack-knife or otherwise loose control. The trailer should have brakes but it is still questionable in my book.

I would definiitely let you insurance company know what you are towing, so if an accident happens they will cover you.
Trailer does have surge brakes that work well. Insurance company knows what I am towing. The one company handles all out of different policy’s.

Looking at a couple of GX470s today. With the 4.7 V8 and extra 1000 lbs they should tow and stop this better


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Not only do you need to figure in tow capacity, which in my opinion at 400#'s under max is pushing it but you should be fine, you need to figure in your payload. Looks like your vehicle payload rating is 1,320#'s. Figure on 13% of the boat weight on the tongue and you've got 600#'s eating into your payload before you factor in occupants and cargo. Just as estimates, if you figure on 2 adults (400#'s+) and cargo (200#'s) you are at 1,200#'s of payload. Just 120#'s from max. This is where you'll get handling issues on the road, longer brake times, etc. With that, I wouldn't do it. Guys go over their tow rating and payload rating all the time, but they are just asking for trouble. I've seen some crazy stuff over the years. Also, if you're concerned enough to have to use wheel chocks and 4-LO just to load and unload the boat I would consider a more capable tow vehicle.

If you want to be accurate with all you of this, you need to go to the scales. Get your vehicle weight when it's loaded with what you would normally take when towing your boat and a full tank of gas. Don't forget to add in weight for any passengers you would have. That'll be your new curb weight. Subtract this weight from your GVWR and that'll be your remaining payload. Then hook up your boat (loaded as it normally would be) and weigh your vehicle again with the trailer off the scales. Subtract your original weight (new curb weight) from this weight and that'll be how much of the boat weight is on the tongue, which you have to factor into your payload. Then weigh everything together and subtract the tongue weight and that'll give you the weight of the boat and trailer to figure into your max tow weight. Also, this last weight (everything together) needs to be less than your vehicles GCVWR.

The above is the ONLY way to determine your weights accurately and be able to make an educated decision on if what your towing is within the limits of the tow vehicle. It's amazing how quickly cargo weight can add up.
 
I appreciate all the feedback. My third gen 4runner is now up for sale. Picked up a 4th gen with the V8 4.7 Friday. Really want a GX but I am very picky and don’t want a spot of rust on the frame. The 4Runner was local owned since new and is super clean. Timing couldn’t have been better.

Handled the boat and trailer no problem on Saturday. Kept it at or below the speed limit and plenty of distance between other vehicles in front of us. Zero issues. It’s AWD with 4 Low. Put it in 4 low at the ramp and had no issues putting the boat in or pulling it out of the water.

Plan is to dry dock it at Kerr next season or maybe the one after. Want to get familiar with towing/ launching and loading it before that.

If a clean GX pops up I will pick that up also.


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BigTerp said:
Not only do you need to figure in tow capacity, which in my opinion at 400#'s under max is pushing it but you should be fine, you need to figure in your payload. Looks like your vehicle payload rating is 1,320#'s. Figure on 13% of the boat weight on the tongue and you've got 600#'s eating into your payload before you factor in occupants and cargo. Just as estimates, if you figure on 2 adults (400#'s+) and cargo (200#'s) you are at 1,200#'s of payload. Just 120#'s from max. This is where you'll get handling issues on the road, longer brake times, etc. With that, I wouldn't do it. Guys go over their tow rating and payload rating all the time, but they are just asking for trouble. I've seen some crazy stuff over the years. Also, if you're concerned enough to have to use wheel chocks and 4-LO just to load and unload the boat I would consider a more capable tow vehicle.

If you want to be accurate with all you of this, you need to go to the scales. Get your vehicle weight when it's loaded with what you would normally take when towing your boat and a full tank of gas. Don't forget to add in weight for any passengers you would have. That'll be your new curb weight. Subtract this weight from your GVWR and that'll be your remaining payload. Then hook up your boat (loaded as it normally would be) and weigh your vehicle again with the trailer off the scales. Subtract your original weight (new curb weight) from this weight and that'll be how much of the boat weight is on the tongue, which you have to factor into your payload. Then weigh everything together and subtract the tongue weight and that'll give you the weight of the boat and trailer to figure into your max tow weight. Also, this last weight (everything together) needs to be less than your vehicles GCVWR.

The above is the ONLY way to determine your weights accurately and be able to make an educated decision on if what your towing is within the limits of the tow vehicle. It's amazing how quickly cargo weight can add up.

Great advice BigTerp. Additionally, I was informed by my auto insurance that if an accident were to occur and a claim was made, if it is determined that the payload capacity of the vehicle was exceeding vehicle spec at the time of accident, any claim or coverage would be denied. Usually folks just go by tow capacity and never consider the payload limit of the towing vehicle.
 
AnglerRoy said:
Great advice BigTerp. Additionally, I was informed by my auto insurance that if an accident were to occur and a claim was made, if it is determined that the payload capacity of the vehicle was exceeding vehicle spec at the time of accident, any claim or coverage would be denied. Usually folks just go by tow capacity and never consider the payload limit of the towing vehicle.

Yep, towing capacity is very misleading. It's only a part of the equation to determine what you can tow SAFELY.
 
BigTerp said:
Yep, towing capacity is very misleading. It's only a part of the equation to determine what you can tow SAFELY.

Exactly, tow rating on vehicles are basically a sales/marketing tool. They do not accurately reflect what a vehicle can actually tow. It's refreshing to see someone who actually knows how it works based on your payload capacity and GVWR.
 
I have a Tacoma TRD OR which has 3.5L with manual transmission. There is a brake controller installed.
I wouldn't hesitate for a second to hook up to that and go to the lake. I do a pontoon boat with it regularly.
 

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