1990 16' Lund Rebel Special

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"Only I will know it happened"

Oops! Has happened to all of us one time or another.

Not applicable here, but this reminded me of a trick I learned some time ago. To confirm the direction to move your router, see the pic below. Point your thumb at the edge to be routed. Your finger is pointing in the direction to move the router. Sorry lefty's. This only works with your right hand.

Point.JPG
 
LDUBS said:
"Only I will know it happened"

Oops! Has happened to all of us one time or another.

Not applicable here, but this reminded me of a trick I learned some time ago. To confirm the direction to move your router, see the pic below. Point your thumb at the edge to be routed. Your finger is pointing in the direction to move the router. Sorry lefty's. This only works with your right hand.

Often the old ways are the best ways. Thanks for that tip I will use that next time I am routing or using the rotozip!
 
Well, in my delirium I accidently hit the plunge lever and did not have the stop tightened down. Rookie mistake for someone that's been using routers for 30+ years... oh well.... Never too old to learn a new trick!
 
Back at it for part of the day Saturday. I'm really starting to enjoy working with rivets. The pneumatic tool is a godsend! Worked on framing in the back end, contain the gas tank and battery - also provide more storage. Also started to decipher all the old wiring. What a mess... 27 years of stuff. I will redo all of it in a logical way with a new switch panel and fuse block. I know I said this before but the time I have into this project is hard to calculate. If time is money then I will have a $30k boat when I'm done....
 

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Baby steps. Like finish carpentry the little stuff takes the longest. I will say that it's easy to get ahead of yourself when you get impatient for results. Yes, I should of already wired and attached the bilge pump and mounted the fuel filter housing before putting the platform in place across the back but I rationalized there is enough room to work... I will just have to crawl on my belly like a reptile to do it. But **** it, last night I really needed to actually finish something even if it was just a little section! Here is the result of about 3 hours:
 

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OK. So I've had a few questions as to why not vinyl or carpet. Short answer is this - I had vinyl in my last boat and didn't really like it. It got stained easy and I could not make it look clean. It was tough and wore really well though. I live in Oregon. Carpet on boat floors in Oregon is not a good idea IMO. It soaks up water and dirt and can be really hard to clean. The way I see it - if my floor starts looking tacky or gets dinged I'll just put a fresh coat of Behr Floor paint on it every couple years or so and I'll be good to go. Fish blood will hose off easily and it'll stay relatively cool in the sunshine. I will have a rubber mat under my moveable seat for comfort, quiet and to protect the floor.
 
Worked on the starboard side - getting that piece level in the aluminum channel was a PIA! It's a very tight fit. Also got the back deck attached and included a photo to show why I did what I did. I built the portable seat for my last boat for when I wanted to run the kicker motor. My thought here is - it slides back and forth if needed to balance weight in the boat or if I choose to add a trolling motor I can operate it from either side. If it's just me going fishing I can choose to throw it in the boat or not. I do have a better (more comfortable) seat that I will be putting on it though... Next up will be the wiring mess before I can cap the side, then on to the helm....
 

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That is a cool way to do that sliding seat do you have any pictures of how you built that. I have been looking at options but the sliding seat rails I found on Amazon had pretty poor reviews and the little portable ones that fit over the seat I am worried will tear up the top of the bench. I am from OR as well and you are so right about carpet it just never dries out here most of the year.
 
Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the actual seat build. I did that back in 2003 when I bought my last boat. It's build out of 3/4" PT plywood - glued with titebond 2 and screwed together - with outdoor carpet stapled to it to help it slide and make for a tight fit front to back. It hangs over the back about 2 inches below the aluminum I beam I used for a deck support. Just enough to keep it from being able to rick back and forth.
 
wmrmurphy said:
OK. So I've had a few questions as to why not vinyl or carpet. Short answer is this - I had vinyl in my last boat and didn't really like it. It got stained easy and I could not make it look clean. It was tough and wore really well though. I live in Oregon. Carpet on boat floors in Oregon is not a good idea IMO. It soaks up water and dirt and can be really hard to clean. The way I see it - if my floor starts looking tacky or gets dinged I'll just put a fresh coat of Behr Floor paint on it every couple years or so and I'll be good to go. Fish blood will hose off easily and it'll stay relatively cool in the sunshine.

I agree with ya and really like the interior color and overall quality of your build. I painted mine with Benjamin Moore porch and floor paint and a year later still looks good and very easy to scrub clean.
 
It's been awhile since I did an update. Feels like we're taking baby steps at this point. Fuel filter is located and installed. Bilge pump has been installed. Most of the new wiring is pulled - not hooked up yet but that's next - Using all new tinned marine wire and waterproof heat shrink connections on all wires - all electrical wires are encased in flexible conduit. Starboard side cover is installed. Stereo is wired into watertight enclosure - Pretty excited about where it will end up being mounted... you'll have to wait and see. Yes, it's an old school cassette - I bought this critter back in about 2005 on a clearance and never got around to putting in my old boat. It has an auxillary in plug in the front so my Ipod will hook right up. No fancy blue tooth for me....Pole holder mounts to be installed soon - once I get all the cables and wires secured out of the way. Have not reinstalled steering wheel yet as I want to add a tach - still not sure how to go about it but I know I'll need another hole in the dash and the round thing will be in the way... I've got a few more gaps in places than I like but I've got to keep reminding myself I'm not building a piano - it doesn't have to be perfect.
 

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Been awhile again. New fuse block and switch bank is installed. Most of the wiring is complete. Waiting on a new Tach and Trim guage to arrive as well as a battery switch to finish up that part of the project. New fish/depth finder needs installed as well.... Bow light is replaced so I can button up the front hatch and install my anchor nest. Helm seat is installed and stereo is located. It'll be some time before I get back after this project as I will be away from home for a bit... Stay tuned...
 

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Just a quick update before leaving town again for a few weeks... Wiring is done. Battery switch is in. Electronics are in. Bow is enclosed. Still waiting for tach install before reattaching steering wheel. Will then do a few finishing touch-ups on the interior then on to the motor and trailer. Still looking to float this old girl before summer's end... will be working in earnest once I return. Next post will have more photos and perhaps a video walk-around. Thanks for looking....
 

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Back at again. Yesterday it was 99 degrees here but I was pretty determined. I rigged up a fan in my shed to blow hot air at me and got a few things done. I finally found the Tach I wanted and ordered it up. This made be very happy. Looks great and I only hope it works once I get the motor working. Wiring is complete. This install allowed me to hammer out the helm. I also got the pole holder compartment finished and holders in place pics to follow. Next up is the dual battery wiring, touch up paint, filling cracks and voids, a little expansion foam in places and I'll start on the motor - plugs, oil, filters, lower unit, impeller, fresh gas and hope I don't have to have carbs redone. Figuring out how to deal with the ghost numbers on the bow and float this old girl! Oh, and then I get to work on the trailer.... It never ends.....
 

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That is some **** fine work! Thank you for sharing. As far as taking a long time, it's going quicker than a lot of us could even wish for. It's hard enough for most folks to get it rolling. #-o
 
Just commenting so people know ... the placement of those nav lights is illegal and doesn’t pass muster. They must illuminate all the way around in a continuous arc from 12 o’clock straight ahead to 112.5-degrees (or about 4 & 8 o’clock) abaft. The plane of focus, up/down, is also off due to the tilt of the bow V as mounted.

If boating on small freshwater lakes & ponds, I doubt anyone will notice or mention it, as I suspect most don’t have lights affixed anyway. But whereas I boat on saltwater & waterways marked by navigable USCG-placed buoys ... that’d be an instant fine if stopped ...
 

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Thank you Dale for the good information and sage advice. Suffice it to say if this little craft is ever out in areas that depend on bouys to navigate after dark, there will be more to worry about than the "Letter of the Law" regarding the configuration of the Navigation lights. If however I choose to late night cat fish somewhere and need to navigate back to the dock or leave the dock before it's light out, I do believe that I have sufficiently complied with the "intent and spirit" of the laws that apply. If an overzealous agent wishes to measure the arc of the light then so be it. As an addendum to this discussion I've seen many, many crafts (much larger than my little lady) direct from the factory with lights that are flush mounted on the sides of the boat at the front of the bow - often at an angle that follows the V like mine - under the "letter of the law" none of these boats are legal. While the flush mounted ones would of certainly looked better I chose the lights I chose specifically because I felt they were the closest I could get to be in compliance without having something mounted on the bow where my anchor nest and/or future trolling motor will be.... Having said that, I would never advocate for purposely being unsafe or piloting a craft that is out of compliance with any of the Marine laws and bi-laws that apply. Oh, and I've seen a flashlight taped to the bow of a boat with colored paper taped over the lens... mine is better than that! :wink:

As a side note, I got the two batteries wired in last night and 100% of the wiring that I replaced worked as designed. Go figure...
 
Howdy again. Time for a short update on progress... All wiring is secured. Transducer is mounted (hope the wife doesn't miss the cutting board I sacrificed :lol: ) Bow plate is finished. Most of the seams are filled in and waiting the final coat of paint. I'm almost down to the outfitting stage. About 15 or so years ago I found these two pole holders at a garage sale for $1.50. I've had them in a box in the shop just waiting for their chance. I could not find a way to incorporate them on my last boat but thought I'd give 'em a go. Vintage holders for my vintage watercraft. I've got 8 Scotty's also but haven't quite figured out how to make them work yet and don't want to do much permanent until I've had her out on the water and figure out where exactly I want them to be. Next report will be once I've cleared out all the tools, cleaned and finished painting the interior. I will then move on to the trailer and motor. Still planning to fish her before summer ends....
 

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