Tracker 1542 project

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FishinFL

Active member
Joined
May 12, 2010
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Location
Keystone Heights, Fl
I am new to the site and been doing alot of reading on here, but here is my main question. I had mod. a 12 jon a few years back and just got a 2011 Tracker 1542 and starting it (hopefully) this weekend, my question is I see alot of folks using wood and I did on my old boat but this time I am using aluminum for most everything (rear deck, front deck, floor... you get the point) does anyone know of any negitives to using aluminum over wood. I have a friend who runs an aluminum shop and got my the material for a great price and doing the labor for very, very cheap. So does anyone see a down side to this. I want to use metal over wood because eventually wood goes bad and metal doesnt. The Frame for the deck will also be all aluminum and the deck will be screwed on so if there ever is a problem I can fix it.
 
Only downside to using aluminum is cost really. I mean your gonna have to either weld, rivet, or screw everything into place but aluminum is soft metal and won't take heavy duty tools to cut and drill. Just measure twice before you cut and your good to go.
 
Lots of guys on here use just Aluminum. Check out Bassboy's and Derl's builds; top notch stuff all done in Alu. Add flotation foam to counter the extra weight of the new Alu. and you should be good to go.
 
Welcome to the site fellow Tracker 1542 owner!

If you can get the aluminum cheaply, go with that!

I am looking forward to seeing your mods as I am still deciding on what I am giong to do with my boat. Lots of pictures please!!

Cheers,
BC
 
Well my aluminum came in today and I will be getting started hopefully on monday, I will only have about $150 in all the aluminum. Just found a motor, which is a 2000 yamaha 20 hp, that should push it pretty well. The boat is starting to come together. I just can't figure out how I want it exactly set up but I think that will start to show as we start working on it. Hopefully I can pick the motor up on Sunday and maybe give it a run before I start any work. I will start posting pictures of the progress and if anyone has any suggestions feel free to throw some input my way. Right now I now that we are building a rear deck, floor between the back bench seat and the middle, and a front deck from the bow bench to the middle bench with storage under it. I am going to get the conduit (think thats how it's spelled) for the wiring and get into place. Question about the foam, I read that adding foam won't help because what makes the boat float is the displacement of water. I can get foam and put in under the floor, which can be added later because the frames are getting welded in but the decks and floor will be screwed to the frame so it can be removed if I ever have to do any work to it.
 
Here is some pictures of what I am starting with, I can't decide whether the matching trailer was a good idea or not because the Trail Star trailer was not cheap but I wanted to do it right. I am trying to figure out where to mount the battery and sorry if the picture quality is not so good I used my phone.
 

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Well wasn't able to start the deck work on the boat but I did find a motor. Got it on and went and gave it a test run. The boat had good speed and planed out quickly. Got the motor for a good deal. So here is a bit of an update.
 

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Adding foam WILL help with flotation, that's why we add it. I believe you were told about upright flotation, in which case foam actually increases draft because of the added weight; and water displacement is the primary buoyancy factor. However, when you aren't displacing water (ie SWAMPED) is when you need the foam. I would add enough foam to offset the weight of the Alu. you will be adding. Probably filling the void under the sole will be more than enough. If you can give me approximate weight of the added structures I can tell you how much foam you will need for upright and level flotation.

Looks like you will need to invest in a good jackplate as well. Your motor is hanging way below the bottom of the hull; looks like a longshaft motor on a shortshaft transom. You want the anti-cav plate even with the bottom of the hull to begin with; though it seems like most end up with it a little higher than the bottom. A jackplate is the ticket, you will be able to find the sweet spot easily with it. someone also built a homebrew jackplate on here; if I can find the thread I will post it up for ya. Nice find on the motor, those Yammi's are gold I hear.

Gonna be sweat when you get her done. I like the matching trailer to BTW.
 
You need to raise that motor up. If you thought it was fast before just wait till you get her up to the correct height. You can make a jackplate easily enough. Good Luck man.
 
Yeah I know that I have got to get the motor lifted up, I was looking at the Mini Jacker and going to take a picture to my buddy and see if he can make something similar. I think I need to lift the motor 4-5 inches, and I have heard by moving the motor back a little, 3-5 inches will help with the hole shot power. I got the motor for $590, and it is clean and runs great so if all I have to do is get the bracket I think I still came out ahead. I have looked to see if I can find directions on how to build a jack plate but no real luck yet. Question, the cav plate is the plate just above the prop, right? And that is suppose to be even with the bottom of the hull?? The jack plate has became the number 1 priority in the building stage, so I will post some pictures as it gets either built or bought which ever comes first.
 
Hey Rat,
I think the extra weight ( this is just a guess) because of the rear deck, front deck, floor and all the extra's, I think will be 100-125 pounds. When you talk about getting swamped, as I know that as water coming over the transom, is that what you mean? What is the difference between marine foam and the stuff at lowes? I know that I can go to lowes and buy the sheets of foam but not sure if it is the right stuff. And do I need to put something between the foam and the metal so the foam doesn't break up or even worse, sqeak? I really apperiate all the input on this, I am trying to do this right the first time.
 
By swamped I mean that the boat is full of water; it can happen any number of ways (over the transom like you described, over the sides, or flip it like I did). Basically here is the 'rule'. The hull comes with enough foam from the factory to keep upright and level flotation with the 'rated' weight. Rated is what is stated on the sticker; any additional weight you add needs to be compensated for with extra foam. I know some guys on here have used the blue or pink building foam in their mods but I don't recommend it. Foam in a hull needs to be USCG approved, that means it meets certain requirements for water absorption, buoyancy, fuel resistance and compression. I am not saying that blue or pink foam don't meet these requirements, but it isn't published anywhere. I would hate to have a liability issue on my hands after I sell the boat because I installed the wrong foam; or worse yet, loose someone on board due to it. A 2 qt kit costs $32 so there really isn't a good reason not to use the right stuff. A 2 qt kit (4 Cu. Feet @ 60 pounds of buoyancy per Cu. Foot) will produce 240 pounds of buoyancy, more than enough for your extra 125 pounds of Alu. The foam isn't for when everything is as it should be, but when things aren't as they should be. :shock:

I have never had 2 part foam squeak, and that is all I have ever used, so I don't really know about the foam sheets.
 
Well got the motor raised up tonight. We built a transom extension, I found one for sale online that had all the measurement and we kinda copied that. The one online was 3/16 aluminum so thats what we used. Raised the motor 4 1/2 inches, I only went that high because I can add in a spacer if I need to but can't add a reducer. I think it looks pretty good and the one we copied goes for $180 so I think we did well. Weights about 18 pounds but we beefed it up so we knew it would be strong. I will post some pictures and I tried to show the cavity plate, it is about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the hull. Hope that is better but like I said I can always add a spacer if I need to. Let me know what y'all think and I am planning on getting it out tomorrow and giving it a test run, but my plug seems to be hiding somewhere in the boat right now so hopefully I can find it tomorrow.
 

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I wish I could fab stuff also, my buddy has the shop and I just give him pictures and moral support most of the time. It is great having a friend that can do the aluminum fab work. Plan on test running it today and seeing how it holds up. I am wondering about speed and don't have a depth finder that will tell me so I am going to cheat and use my GPS from my car and check the speed with that, might not be super acurate but should be close. I will let y'all know.
 
Nice lookin' boat! Looks familiar! :LOL2:

I can't tell you how excited I am about you mod. I will be following closely. Keep those pictures coming.

I am very jealous about your motor btw. I'm still looking. I hope I can find a deal like that!

Cheers,
BC
 
Well the motor didn't fall off so that is a good sign. The transom elevator worked great and after taking it out I got it painted to almost match the boat (I am refusing to pay $20 per can of spray paint from the tracker dealer). I used the GPS out of my car and clocked the boat at 29-30 mph ( the GPS was flipping back and forth from 29 and 30). It was moving along a little to good, I think after the deck is finished the boat will have a great weight to power ratio and if I need a little more power I will get a SS prop but that is down the road. Here is some daylight pictures of the transom.
 

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