I'm Ready

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

elrodphil

Active member
Joined
Mar 25, 2017
Messages
35
Reaction score
0
Okay guys, this weekend I am finally making the effort to cut out the floor for my Weldbilt...Would you suggest I use a jigsaw or a grinder with a diamond wheel. I am cutting 1/8 inch sheet aluminum...
 
what power tools do you have on hand ?
how much of the floor are you going to cut out ??

just start cutting with something. if it doesn't work, go to something else.
and so on until you find something in your arsenal that will do the job.
plasma cutting "will work" but makes a terrible mess with molten slag.
if it is all flat metal with no obstructions, I personally would use the standard skil saw
with a 24 tooth carbide blade. Gloves, long sleeves, face and ear protection required.
clean up sharp corners with the jig saw or angle grinder.
 
I have a 4x8 sheet of aluminum. To save weight I'm going to cut out a piece to co between the gun boxes from the back bench seat to the place where the boat starts to slope up at the front. After I cut this out I am planning to make a template on how I can make the front piece to fit around the bottom of the ribs to the front of the boat. I want to just use tap screws to screw it in the ribs. I am going to get foam to put under the floor...
 
a skil saw with a good carbide tipped blade will handle 1/8" plate with no problem.
a lot of videos on the good ole YouTube of this being done.
use the search for "cutting aluminum with a skil saw"

tight fitting clothing is a must.... gloves, eye protection, ear plugs, long sleeves,
towel wrapped around your neck. HOT CHIPS will be all over you !!!
a total thickness of 2" styrofoam would be perfect for the under support material.
if you use 2x4" wood supports, you will have a LOT of excess noise and vibration.
with aluminum, you MUST have a perfect pattern - - - unlike plywood, if you make a wrong cut,
you can not just simply glue on another piece to fix it. MEASURE 4 TIMES - CUT ONCE !!!

this guy is cutting 1/2" plate - some videos show 1" being cut.
it is not as difficult as some people make it out to be....
(mostly the people that have never done it are the biggest NaySayers).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ_K7cXIidg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peFCoUbJKjw

and a 2" slab on a table saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEnI_d58Azw

and yes, this information is provided to you by a guy that just sustained 17 facial fractures !!!!


.
 
I found a place that has thin luan board...It is 12 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. I am going to get that and make a template...then I am going to try the skill saw. What would you use to cut out the aluminum that fits around the ribs?...It is pretty curvy...
 
a luan template is an excellent idea !!
use the "joggle sticks" in conjunction with your plywood template for those pesky complex corners and shapes.
https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=43390

in my world, I would use a jig saw with a 8-10 TPI wood cutting blade. (TPI = Teeth Per Inch).
the metal cutting blade is very slow going and gets hot too quickly and gums up the teeth.
you will also need at least a 3/8" drill to make pilot holes to start sharp corners.
BLADES.jpg
Note: chips of metal will get under the bed of the jigsaw and scar the metal you are cutting.
if this is an issue, put a couple of layers of cheap masking tape along the cut zones to reduce
the scaring effect. (or turn the metal plate over and cut from the back).
highly recommended to use styrofoam as the support for the plate vs a pallet or wood frame.
since this is apparently your first experience cutting metal, practice on parts of the plate
that will not be used in the floor area to become comfortable and develop your cutting technique

do you have a router or Roto-Zip ???? you can buy some special "downward spiral" bits that
will buzz right through 1/8" aluminum plate.

a hole saw used in the corner of your notch cuts will make very nice looking notches for the ribs.
an assortment of files and rasps will be needed to dress up any sharp edges prior to final assembly.
hole saw.jpg
cut notch.png

as far as files and rasps go, my favorite for working with soft metals, wood, fiberglass, Bondo, etc
is the "Vixen" file. it has open moon-shaped teeth that do not clog easily like other files do.
easy to clean with a wire brush - stays sharp forever.
very rarely seen the Big Box Stores. it is a common item in automotive body repair and supply stores.
available on several online stores such as E-Bay, Amazon, AutoBody Supplies, etc.
highly recommended for your tool box. keep oiled and store in the plastic container it comes in.
I have a few that are well over 30-40 years old and still very sharp.
vixen file.jpg




.
 

Latest posts

Top