1981 12 foot Mirrocraft build

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Robert48

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Hello,
My dad got this boat from his neighbor many years ago for super cheep. It's a 1981, 12 foot Mirrocraft "Resort" model with a 1983 Johnson 15. Not very pretty but it didn't leak a drop, and the motor runs like a top. Over the years this little boat has caught a lot of fish and has never let us down. This fall I decided it needed new floor boards and seats. I swear, that was all I was going to do! Well one thing led to another, and another, and another. It is now 6 months of weekends later and she is almost finished! A friend told me about this forum so I thought I would share some pics of my build.
 

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Robert48 said:
Hello,
My dad got this boat from his neighbor many years ago for super cheep. It's a 1981, 12 foot Mirrocraft "Resort" model with a 1983 Johnson 15. Not very pretty but it didn't leak a drop, and the motor runs like a top. Over the years this little boat has caught a lot of fish and has never let us down. This fall I decided it needed new floor boards and seats. I swear, that was all I was going to do! Well one thing led to another, and another, and another. It is now 6 months of weekends later and she is almost finished! A friend told me about this forum so I thought I would share some pics of my build.
Very nice. I have a early 70s 14 foot Mirrocraft I have just started on. Good ideas here.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
Here are some more pics of the build. Prepping and painting the outside of the hull.
 

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The next step was the trailer. The trailer was actually done a little at a time except the stuff that needed to be done when the boat was on the sawhorses. This included cleaning, sanding and painting. I also completely re-wired it using clear vinyl tubing and 1/2 inch drip irrigation tubing and fittings for a cheep waterproof conduit. It also got new bunks and rollers. With that done I could set the newly painted hull back on the trailer.
 

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The trailer would eventually get new 12" tires and wheels plus matching spare. New races, bearings and bearing buddy's. The new guides were made from an old lawn chair, eye bolts and PVC pipe. New LED lights, safety chains, winch strap, reflectors and a new tongue jack.
 

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Glad to see you here Robert! Great site...and your rebuild will be inspireing to others! Very impressive! I only hope mine comes out half of what you did.
Awesome pictures and post! CPTMRGN
 
With the outside of the hull and trailer looking much better It was finally time to start on the new floor boards. This was not as easy as I thought it would be. I am pretty fair at building stuff out of wood but this was challenge to say the least. I am sure there are people here that could do this in their sleep but for me it was a slow and tedious process. I wish I could offer any words of wisdom here but for me it was make it up as you go. Every piece of wood was slowly customized until it fit the way I wanted it to. When the frame was done I used 3/8 plywood as a sub floor to hold it all together. The final floor piece is also 3/8 plywood with indoor/outdoor carpet purchased on Ebay. Every piece of wood on the boat was also treated with liberal amounts of a good quality waterproofing material. When all was said and done I had a good solid, level floor that didn't weigh too much and could still be removed without to much work.
 

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With the floor installed it was time to prep and paint the inside of the boat. Here is a good tip, if you hate sanding, do not restore a boat! The better the prep, the better the paint. I already had the gray paint, all the painting was done with rattle cans, so I painted the bottom section gray and the rest white.
 

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Robert48 said:
With the outside of the hull and trailer looking much better It was finally time to start on the new floor boards. This was not as easy as I thought it would be. I am pretty fair at building stuff out of wood but this was challenge to say the least. I am sure there are people here that could do this in their sleep but for me it was a slow and tedious process. I wish I could offer any words of wisdom here but for me it was make it up as you go. Every piece of wood was slowly customized until it fit the way I wanted it to. When the frame was done I used 3/8 plywood as a sub floor to hold it all together. The final floor piece is also 3/8 plywood with indoor/outdoor carpet purchased on Ebay. Every piece of wood on the boat was also treated with liberal amounts of a good quality waterproofing material. When all was said and done I had a good solid, level floor that didn't weigh too much and could still be removed without to much work.
Did you fasten the floor to the boat or is it unattached?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
The floor is not attached to the boat. The frame and subfloor are all one (screwed) together piece and the cap piece with the carpet just lays on top. I cut the top piece to be a snug fit in between the 2 benches so it cannot move. I will continue to post pics of the build as I have time. Weather depending, I hopefully will be able to post pictures of the completed project (beauty shots) soon.
 
With the floor in, I started on the rest of the interior. New seats, more carpet, wood and hardware. I removed the center bench at the beginning of the build to open up the floor space. I designed the boat to be optimized for trolling but useable for bass fishing as well. The front deck and seat were first. I hinged it from the front bench to allow access to the battery compartment in the bow. The rear decking and side storage compartments got more elaborate as I kept getting ideas.
 

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The wiring of the boat was also done in stages but here is a recap. The battery is a new 120 amp hour 12 volt. Anything larger would just add too much weight in the bow. I installed a Schumacher onboard charger/maintainer, 50 amp main breaker and a LED battery status indicator. I also ran power leads to both sides of the front seat for the trolling motor. The hood support is made with an aluminum pipe and a battery lug I had lying around. The anchor and rope reel box I was also able to make from stuff I already had.
For the back I ran wire in a piece of conduit before I put down the floor. The power goes into the main battery cutoff switch and then to the power lead for the trolling motor and fish finder. I also installed another battery indicator light in the back outside the rear storage hatch for convenience. I still plan on installing USB charging ports in the rear hatch.
 

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WV, When I removed the center bench I left the brackets that were factory riveted to the hull. I was able to bolt the sideboards to these brackets. These provide most of the support but I also added L brackets in the back attached to the rear bench. I wouldn't stand on them but they are very sturdy.
 

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The downrigger mounts.
I am sure I am not the first person to do this but I have never seen it on any other boats. I did not like the idea of using the clamp style mounts so I fabricated my own that use the factory oar attachment brackets. I simply welded a 1/2 inch bolt to a steel plate then mounted the Scotty mounting bracket to the steel plate. This allows the downriggers to swivel out of the way when not in use or pulling up to the dock. By experimenting with different lock washers and using a (handle bolt) I can position the downriggers any way I want without needing any tools. The mounts always stay on the boat but I can install or the remove the downriggers in seconds.
 

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Today I was able to work on finishing touches. I still need to repaint the motor cowling and apply the decals but aside from that, the project is done and ready for sea trials!
 

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