Removable tunnel cover

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Shawn_Laughlin

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So a friend of mines cousin called me up to do some mods to his aluminum boat that he is exchanging his outboard for a surface drive. He wants a handle bar,which is no big deal and pretty simple, but it’s the other thing that I’m not sure is worth it,money wise or practicality.

He wants to have a removable cover for his tunnel so he can use the hull with his outboard and surface drive. Or that’s my best guess at why he’s wanting to do this. I do know that surface drives don’t need a tunnel but now sure if it will hurt anything minus the not so much loss in flotation. To me it’s very plausible and im 98 percent sure I can come up with a decent design but not sure if it’s worth it?

My design would be to cut and then weld in a 2 x 1 aluminin flat bar, or let’s call it a flange, with blind threaded holes and a cover in the same shape as the bottom to transom angle. While I think it can be done it is major work. I would have to essentially cut the tunnel off the boat to weld in the flange to the bottom, then weld the tunnel on the flange, and while I would think making the bottom weaker.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this done or have you done it?

Any thoughts on if it’s a good or not so good idea are more than welcome. Thanks
 
Well it's experimental...but it's also not your boat!

I'm in! May need some pencil drawings...
 
I'm having trouble understanding what he's looking to do. Is he looking to run an inboard motor with a jet drive out the back, yet still be able to mount an outboard and run it that way as well? If so, I don't think that would be a removable tunnel. Once you install the inboard and jet drive, it will have to stay in place. If you had an offset transom riser that could push the outboard back further and possibly allow running it with the inboard and jet drive in place. But the weight in the back of the boat would probably mess up that possibility.
 
It seems he wants to regain a flat hull. Upside will be better planing & floatation, downside will be that unless fully sealed, it will drag heavy water around.

If you proceed, I would not punch any holes in the hull. Instead, epoxy on the mounting flanges. If they come loose some day, at least you won't sink.

It will be much easier to just buy a different boat. He should be able to sell the tunnel hull for a good price, especially if he sells it without it being modified.
 
https://www.bassmaster.com/slideshow/inside-tunnel-boats-defoe-and-friends


There are several good pictures (use the arrows). Mike Watson Welding, Bluff City, TN. Maybe there is something here that would help?

#18, 23, 27, 28
 

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