Adding stick steering and throttle

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Lazybee

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If anyone has any experience with adding stick steering and throttle to front of a 2006 Triton 1546 Crappie model, I would appreciate any and all feedback. I’ve purchased the stick steering base mount and a throttle mount for the other side. This boat came with the two welded in swivel seats and a factory live well installed. I sold the 8 hp motor and bought a 2007 Yamaha four stroke with the stick steering and remote throttle for it. What I cannot get help with is the following:
It has carpeted interior and I am ASSUMING that the carpet is glued to some sort of thin aluminum skin underneath and the skin is simply riding on top or over the ribs along the sides and bottom of the boat. I have tried to contact the manufacturer and they have since been bought and sold once or twice and now the parent company is White Water Marine ( they make the bass pro aluminum boats) and I’m told they have none of the old records or drawings for this boat. I’m hoping someone has some experience adding stick steering to this. Odel before and can answer a few questions that I have before I start tearing up carpet to conform my thoughts.
Thanks anyone!
 
I'm think'n if I was you, instead of tearing up the boat just to hide the cables, I would just mount them, in an aesthetic way, on the outside....jmo
 
I’d have to agree with OldSchoolBassMode. I own a 91 duracraft stick steer. It’s a 15/42 and all the cables are exposed but tied down with cable brackets.

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They run along the inside of the rubrail. You may be able to tuck the electrical wire away but the steering cable is another story. It’s very stiff and doesn’t bend easily. The only suggestion, without looking at your boat, would to fabricate a cover for it. Good luck. I love my stick steer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’ve done the conversion a few times on Jon boats, but it was with cables and pulleys. I assume you are using the Ezy system. In that case, I would just surface mount. If it really bothers you, just make some covers out of aluminum angle or tubing.
 
It all done! My cousin is a real magician when it comes to doing things that require some thought and attention to detail. He managed to get the new EZ Glide steering hooked up and had to cut down the original shifter and linkage to fit. He did not tear up any of the carpeting trying to make it look like it’s big brother. He did like some of you suggested in earlier posts, just ran the controls out in the open. I’ll have to probably add a clip or two to the steering cable sheath just to tidy it up a little. He and my other cousin took it out on Lake Keowee,SC and gave a test run and it did just fine. The jack plate modifications paid off and the cavitation plate is parallel with the bottom of the transom as it should be. He had to really get creative to make the LONGSHAFT Four stroke Yamaha work, it has a home brew jack plate on a jack plate to get that prop up where it needs to be. My bad for not realizing the motor was a long shaft at time of purchase, it was a good deal, low hours and with the controls included, I had to get it. I’ve moved to NC now and hope to get it out myself at last later this month. Sorry, E0FA054A-7776-4E99-8A21-6BEC9C81C030.jpeg Just this one pic of the throttle and steering set that was used.
 
More pics of the new stick steering, throttle and double jack plate.798F663C-D50B-4AE3-A06F-8ACCC0F1623F.jpeg1544FF13-119B-4319-9A7E-24586FE9B3C4.jpeg
 

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I found fwd=right has a natural feel since it follows your body english. But that is with left hand stick. It would be opposite with a right hand stick.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
I found fwd=right has a natural feel since it follows your body english. But that is with left hand stick. It would be opposite with a right hand stick.

I've never used a stick steer, but it just seemed that is the way it should be. And I agree, opposite if on the right. For some reason it just makes sense.
 
Apologies for the super long reply as I missed them completely. Yes, forward to turn right and pull back to go left.
 

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