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Vader809

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LOCATION
Uniontown, OH
I have a 16' Crestliner with a 20" transom. I don't know what year it is. There was a small deck where the front seat was. My problem is that I don't have anywhere to attach the flooring. I have some pics to post. I had a temporary deck up front. The boat is very stable. I just don't want to make it top heavy. I took everything off and put it out side for the winter. I will post more pics. But any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
 

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Here are some more pics. The aft seat has been removed, and I plan remove the center seat and placing a bow deck all the way back to the second seat. Aft is a battery box,which will more than likely be taken out. If I get an outboard that will be where the fuel tank will go. I have most of what I need so far. Bow mount Terrova 80# 24v. 3 bank charger, 50# Endura aft. Helix 9si tm mounted transducer. Just looking to open up the floor for two or three people to move around and not have to stumble over the seats.
 

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Nice boat!

To add floor you will have to make some supports that match the profile of the hull. I personally would just get some 1-1/2 foam board & cut the semi-circles from that. Sure it will absorb water over 10 years, but you could have the floor easily removable to access them.

If you remove center seat, you will lose some hull rigidity. That will take some engineering if you don't want to climb over struts or braces.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
Nice boat!

To add floor you will have to make some supports that match the profile of the hull. I personally would just get some 1-1/2 foam board & cut the semi-circles from that. Sure it will absorb water over 10 years, but you could have the floor easily removable to access them.

If you remove center seat, you will lose some hull rigidity. That will take some engineering if you don't want to climb over struts or braces.

I think you mean like adding ribs made out of foam board to support the floor. That is a really good idea. Because there are not a lot of ribs or floor framing (whatever you call them) I might take it one step further and consider having a solid foam board cut to the proper contour with the floor skin on top. In other words a solid foam core under the floor skin. That would provide the best possible weight distribution on the hull bottom not to mention quite a bit of floatation.

I also agree with your comments about hull rigidity. I think a lot of hull support is being removed. Something needs to be added back, IMO.
 
If you can get 4 inch thick polyurethane foam, use it to make the floor and put indoor/outdoor carpeting over it. easy peasy
I have an insulated patio cover thats made of two aluminum sheets with 4 inches of foam between. It comes in 4 and 5 by 16 ft panels. One would do the trick and give you an instant floor
 
You can add places to attach a deck to. By doing this you can easily replace any structural integrity for when you remove the bench.
 
RStewart said:
You can add places to attach a deck to. By doing this you can easily replace any structural integrity for when you remove the bench.

Wow! I have a 1960 Richline Challenger 14 ft semi vee too
 

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Thanks, I have been thinking about adding rod lockers along both sides. That might help with hull rigidity. And that should give me something to attach the flooring to. I like the idea of adding foam. Just need to have drainage down the middle. I really want to work on it but it's too cold out for me.
 
The only thing that I know about this boat is,it's 16'2". No manufacturers tag or anything that leads to the manufacturer. I found a stamp, but that's a dead end. Pool noodles are out of question for flotation, they may be good around the pool,but that's about it. I have some sheets of cell foam that I may use in certain areas. My biggest question is whether the insulation foam will...float my boat :p
 
Vader809 said:
The only thing that I know about this boat is,it's 16'2". No manufacturers tag or anything that leads to the manufacturer. I found a stamp, but that's a dead end. Pool noodles are out of question for flotation, they may be good around the pool,but that's about it. I have some sheets of cell foam that I may use in certain areas. My biggest question is whether the insulation foam will...float my boat :p

"My biggest question is whether the insulation foam will...float my boat :p"

If you are asking about flotation capacity I was going to refer you to the sticky in the Boat House section about how much foam is needed. But I see you have already visited there.

As long as it is closed cell foam I might prefer using the insulation board over the two part expanding stuff for an enclosed area. Keeping a drain channel down the middle is a good idea in my opinion. Even with closed cell foam it is not unusual to read of waterlogged foam. The drain channel will eliminate having your foam sitting in water -- always a good thing.
 

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