here's my boat... sears 14' jon...

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acabtp
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon...

Post by acabtp » 24 Mar 2011, 18:49

Hi there. I recently bought this jon boat. The info plate says that it's a Sears model 61114 and the serial number starts with MA04J, but I cannot find any information on a Sears of that model that is a flat bottom jon. It has fully welded seams. 13'10" long, 32" wide at the bottom, 48" wide at gunwales. It is rated for a 10 HP motor, 3 persons, and 545 lbs total payload.

It came from PA, but when I tried to register it in NJ, they gave me trouble because the PA reg listed the year as "1111". I ended up having to take it to the state police marine division for an inspection and records check before they let me register it as a 1970. That was just what we agreed was about the correct vintage... they could not determine the age either since its serial number is not a HIN.

Anyway, pictures:
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replacement transom at the top of the to-do list
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Last edited by acabtp on 06 Apr 2011, 17:18, edited 3 times in total.
New Project - Duranautic DN-16
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Captain Ahab
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can anyone help me with more info on my boat?

Post by Captain Ahab » 24 Mar 2011, 19:00

:WELCOME: :WELCOME:
Trying to Fish as often as Jim works :LOL2:

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Jim
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can anyone help me with more info on my boat?

Post by Jim » 24 Mar 2011, 19:05

:WELCOME:

Can you get a close up of that sears plate?
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acabtp
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can anyone help me with more info on my boat?

Post by acabtp » 24 Mar 2011, 19:11

Jim wrote::WELCOME:

Can you get a close up of that sears plate?
Thanks.

Here is the plate:
Image
New Project - Duranautic DN-16
Primary Boat - 14' Starcraft V
Other Boat - 14' Sears Jon
In My Travels

acabtp
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon

Post by acabtp » 28 Mar 2011, 21:59

So I took the boat out on Saturday to Lake Wawayanda for a float test. Happily, it passed with flying colors, so I loaded up my trolling motor and did some fishing.
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Less happily, the fish decided to not cooperate with the venture. It was pretty rough fishing conditions anyway... water temp was 37°, air temp upper 20°s... I had to keep picking the ice off my guides.

Anyway, now that I was sure it was not taking on water, it was time to make the boat ready to hang an outboard on. So that meant replacing the old worn out transom.

I don't know if this was the original transom or not. The model plate has been remounted at least once, so I am guessing it was replaced at some point. Then again, the hardware seemed to match the rest of the boat, so maybe not. I haven't been able to find any more information on this type of boat to know for sure if this was the original design. It was constructed of a strip of 3/4" x 6" plywood with an additional layer of 1/2" plywood for mounting the motor. It was held to the boat with 5 rivets.
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The motor mounting strip is just held in place with 4 brads. I have no idea how this little thing was rated for a 10 HP motor.
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After the 5 rivets were drilled out, I was able to remove the old transom and see that it was rotted on the back side. Good riddance!
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After doing a lot of reading on this website and whatever else I could find on google, I decided that I was going to use solid hardwood to rebuild the transom. I came to this conclusion because I could build the main part of the transom from a single piece and not have to deal with lamination or big areas of open grain to seal against water intrusion. At the lumber yard, I selected a 5/4" x 8" white oak board (actual measurements slightly smaller).

Using the old transom as a template, I cut my board to size. The new transom is 2" deeper and about 1/3" thicker than what it is replacing. It is immensely stronger. Because it is larger, I had to notch the back side of the transom in order to clear the aluminum transom to floor bracket.
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I put a scrap wood block on the outside of the transom and then used clamps to pull the aluminum back in line with the transom where it should be. While held in place with clamps, I drilled holes at the location of the original 5 rivets and installed stainless bolts. I then added two additional bolts along the new bottom edge of the transom.

The rear grab handles had just been riveted to the sheet metal originally, so I went ahead and drilled and bolted them through the transom as well. Now the boat doesn't want to bend when you lift it and I have 4 more bolts strengthening the transom. I don't know why they didn't do it this way at the factory.

So, the 5 little rivets are now replaced with 11 stainless bolts and the transom is nice and strong. I put the motor on it and see how things sat.
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This is a piece of 1x1 wood clamped to the cavitation plate to make it easy to see where things sit with relation to the bottom of the boat.
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Cav plate is sitting 3" below the bottom of the boat. "Crap" I think to myself, that is too low. I'm pretty new to boats, but again research here and elsewhere seemed to indicate that I would be better off with the cavitation plate about 1-2" below the boat.

So, I built a small transom extension from a 10 1/2" length piece of my oak board.
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3 more bolts hold this on there, bringing the total to 14. Overkill? Perhaps... but after seeing how bent up the transom got with the old set up (towards the back, from the weight of the outboard), I just don't want to have to do it again.
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Using my table saw, I notched about 1/3" thickness off of the top 2 1/2" of the board in order to provide clearance for the motor clamps.
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Then I sliced some spacers from my oak board until I got the outside of the extension to line up with the aluminum transom rail.
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Sears boat gets a Sears motor, it is only right. My Gamefisher looks a bit happier at its new higher perch.
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Now the plate sits exactly 1" below the boat at the most reasonable trim hole setting. Idea achieved.
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I was anxious to see how my new transom and extension worked before waterproofing them in case modification was required. It was pretty cold and windy today, but I decided to get the boat on the water headed over to Lake Hopatcong this afternoon. Here's my little boat at the dock of the Lake Hopatcong State Park boat ramp.
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She sits pretty well in the water with just the motor, 5 gallons of gas and some safety gear aboard. Sits not quite as nicely in the water when I am on the driver's bench, but not so bad. I need to get some longer hoses and some straps to mount the gas tank all the way in the bow.

So, on to performance... I have to say that I found the results to be "scary fast"!! :shock: :) :D :twisted: At least for me who has not done very much power boating it was quite amusing. Getting on a plane from standstill was easy, and took between 3 and 4 seconds. Wide open I was doing about 24 mph. The boat sure was bouncing and rattling around though because there was about a 1' chop on the lake today with 15 mph sustained winds and higher gusts. Things could get a little squirrely when a gust changed direction real quick. I am thinking that on a day with better weather I should be able to hit 26 maybe 27 mph.

At the trim setting I though would be good (3rd hole out from transom of 4 on motor bracket) I was getting some porpoising at speed. Moving to the 2nd hole seemed to reduce this somewhat, but at the expense of some directional authority and turn stability... she power slid through turns. I want to go back on a day with calmer winds to see if that was part of the issue.

When I am happy with it, I am going to pull it out and bond all the parts together and laminate a sheet of aluminum the size of the extension in the middle of the stack. Then seal it up with a couple coats of fiberglass resin and bolt it back in with some 5200 on the bolt shafts and heads.

Any thoughts? Suggestions for improvement?

Tom
New Project - Duranautic DN-16
Primary Boat - 14' Starcraft V
Other Boat - 14' Sears Jon
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lckstckn2smknbrls
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by lckstckn2smknbrls » 28 Mar 2011, 23:17

Looks good so far. I'm thinking you could raise the motor so it's even with the bottom hull.
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jellio5
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by jellio5 » 28 Mar 2011, 23:48

First off great job on getting it up and running. I'd be nervous with that wood jack plate...I would for sure get an aluminum one made up for it. Might be spendy but so would losing your motor...in the mean time I'd put a chain or something on there in case it breaks. Also remember you don't have to go full throttle with the boat if you don't feel comfortable. IMO it's better to have the motor farther in the water than the other way around. I'd rather be an inch or two low than high.
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LeviStevenson
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by LeviStevenson » 29 Mar 2011, 01:20

That's awesome and scary at 25 isn't it!? I have that boats little brother an appleby 1232 (they made sears boats) with a 7.5 evinrude and I get 26 mph on gps...scary fun. Powerslides on glass conditions...those boats don't have much for chines...and flats just don't turn that well. Two people and gear brings it down to 16 mph but I have since added a battery, trolling motor, aluminum cross braces along the floor along with an aluminum floor (eliminated that feeling of blowing out all rivits on choppy water) also aluminum framing for deck support and aluminum decking. Haven't gpsd it yet but still feels every bit of 20 mph...though much safer and waaay quieter. I'll be following this build. As soon as I have the chance I will post my very extensive build.

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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by BaitCaster » 29 Mar 2011, 09:22

Great looking boat - nice and clean. What are in all the crates you had in the bow? Looks like one of them is set up like a kayak fishing crate. I agree with Jellio's concerns on the wooden jack plate. You shuold splurge on a proper metal jack plate or get a metal one fabricated.
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by fragdemon » 29 Mar 2011, 11:18

great looking job so far! I would definitely recommend getting the mini-jacker plate from TH Marine and use it instead of the current wood.
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by benjineer » 29 Mar 2011, 13:12

Keep an eye on that board, especially where you did the sharp notch at the top. That creates a stress concentration. Rounding it out with a router bit would help or using a thinner board. Adding some aluminum to both sides would sure make me feel better.
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acabtp
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by acabtp » 29 Mar 2011, 16:23

LeviStevenson wrote:That's awesome and scary at 25 isn't it!?
Indeed it is... very fun.
BaitCaster wrote:Great looking boat - nice and clean. What are in all the crates you had in the bow? Looks like one of them is set up like a kayak fishing crate. I agree with Jellio's concerns on the wooden jack plate. You shuold splurge on a proper metal jack plate or get a metal one fabricated.
Thanks. I am planning on keeping it simple... You are right about the milk crate, it is what usually goes on my kayak or canoe for fishing. I have some thoughts rolling around in my head for some rod holders and a mount for my fish finder on the jon boat, but I am not going to deck it or anything.
fragdemon wrote:great looking job so far! I would definitely recommend getting the mini-jacker plate from TH Marine and use it instead of the current wood.
Thanks. I looked at the mini jacker, but it is a lot bigger than I need... I don't want to offset the motor any further back, just up. The 4" offset to that the mini jacker has would put more twisting stress on the transom from the weight of the outboard as well as moving the weight distribution of the boat even further towards the stern. I am going to bond aluminum in with the jack plate, it will be plenty strong when complete.

Any other thoughts on the cav plate depth / porpoising issue before I finish this thing up?
New Project - Duranautic DN-16
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acabtp
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by acabtp » 03 Apr 2011, 01:15

Little video of my tin yacht on Lake Hopatcong in HD on youtube
[youtube][/youtube]

Also, while I am still planning on beefing it up, here is an anecdotal note as to the strength of the oak jackplate... I hit a submerged rock at WOT (oops) and popped the outboard up out of the water and then back in. No damage to anything except the skeg.

I did not have any more problems with bouncing around this time, so I think it was just the wind and not having anything up front in the boat last time. So, I will be making my transom setup permanent and beefing up the jackplate this week.
Last edited by acabtp on 04 Apr 2011, 08:47, edited 1 time in total.
New Project - Duranautic DN-16
Primary Boat - 14' Starcraft V
Other Boat - 14' Sears Jon
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by mtnwkr » 03 Apr 2011, 01:33

Do y'all leave your outboards unlatched when running so they will just "pop up" if you hit something? I never really thought about that, not much to hit where I fish.
Great looking job so far! Nice and clean. I sometimes wish a Jon would work for my fishing as i like all the usable space Vs. a V hull.
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here's my boat... sears 14' jon... 14' of pure power?

Post by crazymanme2 » 03 Apr 2011, 06:21

I always leave my motor unlatched.

As far as how high to put your motor,I would have it even or a little above.
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