first,let me say that i love this site! its like having a 1,000 yrs of boat building experience at my finger tips. o.k. that being said, ive read on here where pressure treated wood is a no no when it comes in contact with aluminum. i used it on my boat for a deck and some flooring and im almost positive it does not touch any part of the hull,benches etc.. because of the carpeting. will the carpet protect it? if so for how long? its been completed for about a month and im planning on pulling it all back out this winter and replacing it with aluminum. i just need to know if it will be alright till then or am i gonna be a busy man today?
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pressure treated wood
- Thread starter shawnfish
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diabetik11
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The new pressure treatment DOESNT corrode the aluminum, I just replaced my floors with 1/2" pressure treated plywood. Once again it WONT do anything to your aluminum.
Plus all the New TRACKER boats use pressure treated plywood.
Plus all the New TRACKER boats use pressure treated plywood.
lckstckn2smknbrls
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There are many post on this subject do a search. IIRC The newest pressure treated wood claims to be less reactive to aluminum not that it is 100% safe.
Zum
Well-known member
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18221&hilit=pressure+treated+wood
I personally wouldn't use it,still seems to have some corrosive issues.(why take the chance?)
Might be okay if your planning on doing a swap out,only time will tell.
Time is the only way to tell,just like in medicines/pills.Sometimes they say they're okay,won't hurt you but in 10 years time theres a recall saying it could cause something.Just my view on things.
I personally wouldn't use it,still seems to have some corrosive issues.(why take the chance?)
Might be okay if your planning on doing a swap out,only time will tell.
Time is the only way to tell,just like in medicines/pills.Sometimes they say they're okay,won't hurt you but in 10 years time theres a recall saying it could cause something.Just my view on things.
i agree 100% with you, i just came back in from removing it all. very disappointed but i was planning on redoing it with aluminum this winter,but for now i went and bought some 1/2 inch plywood for a deck wich i will treat myself(is thompsons water seal good?) and some 1 inch square stock for support wich just from holding them both will make a big difference in weight.now that i think about it there were a couple things i noticed when i was done that if id thought about it earlier i would have changed so now i can. by this winter when i do a FINAL job i should be able to get it right!!! lol!!! i will post pics tomorrow of 1st job and the start of 2nd and keep you guys updated as i move along.......Zum said:
Alumacraft
Well-known member
ALL THE NEW TRACKER BOATS HAVE PRESSURE TREATED WOOD =D> =D> =D> (somebody explain to me why they would use treated plywood if its just going to eat away at the $30K boat...)
why wooldn't you use the new treated wood?, it will last 20-30 years. have fun trying to protect your none treated wood and have fun replacing it every 5 years. thats all I have to say....
Tracker wouldn't put it in the aluminum boats if it will corrode it:!: :!:
I guess it takes time for people to catch on that it wont eat your boat away??
I Used TREATED WOOD!!
end this topic.
why wooldn't you use the new treated wood?, it will last 20-30 years. have fun trying to protect your none treated wood and have fun replacing it every 5 years. thats all I have to say....
Tracker wouldn't put it in the aluminum boats if it will corrode it:!: :!:
I guess it takes time for people to catch on that it wont eat your boat away??
I Used TREATED WOOD!!
end this topic.
im very happy for you! why dont you read the entire thread! if you do you will see that im gonna have lots of fun redoing it in a few months not in 5 years!! dont waste your time commenting if your not gonna read the whole post,oh and would not is not spelled wooldnt....Alumacraft said:
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Yep. There is a difference in "less reactive" and "not reactive" in my book. BIG difference.
Anyway, the copper is what makes the wood and the aluminum react. If there is copper in the wood, it could potentially be reactive (If the copper and aluminum never touch, no worries, but when/if the copper leaches out and reaches the aluminum, they will experience electrolysis).
If your pressure treated wood has NO COPPER, then you should be fine (unless it has some other metal that aluminum doesn't get along with - I work with aluminum, and don't claim to know everything in modern pressure treated wood). If it does, don't ignore simple chemistry. You don't want copper with aluminum. The most fruitful research at this point would likely be learning what exactly is in pressure treated ply, and what year(s) the regulations changed in requiring certain things to be or not to be included in the treating.
Also, don't get your hopes up too much because Tracker, or G3 or something along those lines uses them. These companies (Tracker more so than some, as they generally have the lowest prices for an equivalent boat), is designing a boat to a certain price point, and while the end result is usually fairly nice, there are corners cut in construction, which to most, wouldn't really have an issue, but to the guy that uses his boat hard, and puts it away wet, might show up as a problem. I've had a few G3 "All Welded" hulls in recently, and in every one of them, there is pressure treated plywood. It is wrapped with a heavy plastic, so it doesn't actually make contact with the aluminum.
Also, if I remember correctly, there was a member on here a year or two ago that had a brand new Lowe that developed corrosion holes in the transom within something like 9 months, likely due to the pressure treated ply in the transom (Lowe claimed to not know what happened, but refunded his money). Someone may want to go dig up that post.
Bhockins
Well-known member
I'm redoing my transom now and I plan to use regular plywood and fiberglass it so it's waterproof. It's relatively cheap and will last a lifetime. Just a thought.
etindoll
Active member
I just pulled this information off of Georgia Pacific website. " Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with ACQ-D or CA-C treated wood."
etindoll said:
Appears that almost all pressure treated lumber has a 'C' in it.
No way in the world that I would use it. It might work in a freshwater application, as these boats are generally trailer maidens, and not used hard at all, but put it in saltwater for a few weeks, and the trouble will likely become noticed.
HookedUp443
Active member
It's not getting near mine either. Simply NO NEED to risk it. [-X
Mojo^
Well-known member
I recommend that you do a little research and maybe send the manufacturer an email or two. If they use copper in any amounts in the process, stay away from it. It is the copper in pressure treated plywood that is the aluminum killer.
SVOMike86
Well-known member
Shawnfish- In answer to your question about sealing, you should either use a spar urethane, or a fiberglass resin to seal your decking. Thompson's is not sufficient for the long run, but if you are serious about switching to aluminum in a couple months you should be ok. If you still need to buy the sealer, I would suggest getting Helmsman Spar Urethane (about $30-35) a gallon. I'm not sure how much the Thompson's costs, but if your plans change and you decide to stay with wood decking for a season or 2, you'll be good to go. I put 4 heavy coats on just my front deck (which is 6ft long) and still have 1/2 a gallon left, so 1 gallon should be enough for an entire boat.
Mojo^
Well-known member
Fiberglass resign alone does little to enhance the durability of wood substrate. It will seal it but it will also be brittle and pron to cracking. It is the addition of fibers that does all the work. However, if you use an epoxy resign it will have superior strength and remain flexible. Check-out https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html . It can also be use with fibers but works exceptionally well as a sealer for wood.
$0.02 I'm new to boating, but I do have 30+ years in construction. The previous generation of treated wood was great for general construction, but it couldn't touch aluminum. I would see a serious degradation of alum flashing that resulted in water intrusion on projects less than 10 years old. The new generation of treated wood a big pain because it cant touch engineered steel hangers and connectors. Everywhere it comes in contact with steel many county and city building codes require a membrane to be put between the treated member and the steel hanger/connector. Many contractors use an ice/water shield material that is sold as door and window flashing. Maybe this can be done in a boat application. Use the uncured butylene rubber flashing at points of contact. Not the perfect answer, but the life of the hull might be extended.
Oh, by the way. The boat I purchased last year had the wood in the transom replaced about 6 years ago. When I took it off this winter I found that very little aluminum is left. Most of the transom has to be cut out and new welded back in.
That was a heck more than $0.02.
Sorry :roll:
Oh, by the way. The boat I purchased last year had the wood in the transom replaced about 6 years ago. When I took it off this winter I found that very little aluminum is left. Most of the transom has to be cut out and new welded back in.
That was a heck more than $0.02.
Sorry :roll:
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