Transom Saver

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San Dimas

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Hello Everyone;

I have a 1979 Valco aluminum boat 14' long. I recently noticed that the top of the transom is starting to pull back from the motor bouncing while being trailered. The motor is a new 9.8 Tohatsu 82lbs. I have rubber straps around the lower unit but it doesn't seem to be enough. Will a transom saver keep this from happening. If so, whats a good brand? Thanks.
 
I'm not sure if I understand you but is the transom moving or is the motor moving? If the transom is moving, I think you have a serious issue with the structure but if the motor is bouncing, a transom saver may help.

I use a transom saver on my tin and my glass boat. You'll get all kinds of comments on this issue.
 
First off. While I am still learning about boats myself, I would say if the transom is bending back where the motor mounts with 82 lbs of weight, you got a rotted transom. As far as a transom saver. I would recommend one. I use the Attwood version sold at most Wal-Marts. It is about $27 and mounts to the trailer with one bolt. My opinion is is that you should support the motor while trailering.
 
If the transom is bending near the center where the motor clamps on they you probably need to replace the wood in your transom. If it's pulling back/bending/cracking where the transom meets the corner gussets, then you probably need a transom saver.
 
The motor is bouncing a lot while trailering over any bump in the road. This is bending the transom back enough to separate the rear storage compartments from the transom about a 1/4". Also, the rear gusset is 2 peice and it is beginning to separate also. I've tried to limit the bouncing with strong bungy cords from the transom to the lower unit, but this does't seem to be doing the job. The wood doesn't look real great so maybe it needs replacing. How hard a job is this? Would I use marine grade plywood? If a transom saver would solve the problem, that's what I'd rather do. I own a machine shop so I have all the tools I would need but in my old age I guess I'm getting lazy. I like this boat so I don't want to give up on it.
 
I forgot to say that the rear 2 piece gusset is in the center of the boat and goes from the floor to about half way up the transom at about a 45 degree angle. Maybe I should post some pictures.
 
You need to fix the boat and then get a transom saver. You don't need marine plywood exterior grade plywood is less expensive and is made with water proof glue.
 
I'm still learning about boats and motors, but I picked up the atwood model from walmart as well. Regardless of other potential problems with your transom itself, the transom saver couldn't be a bad idea. At 27 $ it's a worthwhile investment.
 
How hard a job is it to replace the transom wood? I know that a lot of rivets need to be removed but beyond that is it a big job?
 
all the packing for mine (Atwood, bought in 2011 from Walmart) said was "Works great for motors with hydraulic trim/tilt" I use it without. works fine.
 
San Dimas said:
The current transom wood is 2 piece and it forms a"T". Would 1 piece be better?
1 Piece would be stronger. Can you post some pictures?
 
The brace you described from the floor to half way up the transom is the knee brace. The gussets will be in the top corners where the transom meets the sides. Replacing the transom is not the same for all boats. For some it's easy while for others it's extremely difficult. Get the pictures up so someone can guide you through the job.
 
With a 9.8 Tohatsu, I don't think you'll have any problems using a transom saver. Just put the lower unit in the tilt position and lift the lower unit onto the transom saver. Don't forget the rubber strap and read the directions.

I've seen people use the manual tilt method with up to 50hp models although a hydraulic tilt can't hurt either on the large motors. I have a manual tilt 15hp Honda and it's no issue, even with my old body.
 
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