How to - transom

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Gscott

New member
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hello - New to forum! I am hoping that members can wrap up all in one post on "How to make / replace a transom" for my '14 tinny. I replaced my transom probably 10-12 years ago, probably using Elmer's and Rustoleum floor paint. It's held up okay over the years, but now its bowing and making noises under heavy throttle. I've searched the forum on this topic and seen the types of wood I should use but what I need specifically is:

1. What do you use to glue the layers together?
2. What tool do you use to cut the rounded ends, fitting in the gunwales / sides of boat?
3. Do you cut the sides one layer at a time or all 2 - 3 once glued together?
4. What is the best that I can coat it with for durability?

I use at times 3 different motors on this boat - 9.5 & 15 & 25. The 25 causes some concern for safety with my sub-standard transom.
Wanted to attach pics but seems as though an can't yet as a new member.
Thanks!
 
Hi Gscott. Welcome to tinboats. There are really only a few rules when it comes to rebuilding these old tinnies. For starters, NEVER use pressure treated lumber as the chemicals used to preserve it will cause pitting in your hull. Instead, use high quality non-pt, exterior grade plywood. Most folks use 1/2" or 3/4". You'll then want to glue and screw several layers to build up the desired thickness, usually around 1.5" total. You can use 2-part epoxy to glue them together and/or a powerful waterproof wood glue such as Titebond III. You can even use small stainless steel screws to draw them together. You can either leave the screws in place or remove them after the glue cures. You can then seal the wood using the same epoxy or Spar Urethane after you have pre-drilled all of the holes for the mounting hardware. After the transom is sealed, you can then install it using Stainless Steel hardware throughout. Be sure to apply plenty of 3M 5200 marine caulk to the hardware just prior to installation as well. That's really all there is to it; non-pt wood, spar urethane/epoxy to seal, mount with stainless steel hardware. The rest is simply a matter of time and money. You can get everything you need at Lowes/HD with the exception of the epoxy. As for rounding off the edges, you can use a router to do so prior to sealing it, but it's not really necessary. Good luck.
 
I guess I don't know how to attach a pic. I looked at the FAQ - doesn't really say.
I was looking for what tool people cut the curved sides with. Jig saw or sawz-all or something else? I', not sure about a router. Router used to actually cut the wood? I have a bit of a void on the sides next to the hull. Should the transom fit in there tight, touching the sides or is 1/4 - 1/2 inch space okay?
Thanks,
 
You'll want to use a jig saw to cut any rounded sides.

3M 5200 is a great sealant, but know that once it is stuck to something it is fairly permanent. I have picked fiberglass boats off trailers while trying to remove a motor and actually had to pry the motor off and it take big chunks of the glass off the boat. JFYI.
 

Latest posts

Top