14 Ft Monark

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LetsGoMteers

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New to the site and just purchased my first boat. It's a 1982 14ft Monark. The transom was completely rotten and was easily ripped out. But the problem I have now is getting the new one in. Boat has a toe anchor and elbow joints on top. Not sure how I can fit it in and welding is not an option for me. Am thinking about making the transom in 2 or 3 pieces and not sure if this is a problem. Any help would be great. I have a 15hp yamaha that will go back on it
 

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I have that exact boat, only mine is a 1979. I cyphered on that same issue for about a week and finally just took it to a boat shop so they could weld the middle brace back into place after replacing the transom. I figured if it was done right the first time I wouldn't have to worry about for quite a few years.
 
The easiest fix that you can DIY is to drill out/cut off the rivets that hold the knee brace to the bottom of the boat and the ones that hold the 2 angles to the side walls. Replace your transom wood (be sure to seal it real good before installation), then you can use closed end blind rivets to reinstall the knee brace and side angles.

Closed end blind rivets make aluminum boat work and repair very easy and a one man job.

Here's an example of how they work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

Everyone that owns an aluminum boat should have a rivet setting tool and a selection of closed end blind rivets... it should be a law.

Edit:

Transoms need to be one piece or 2 full width/length pieces bonded together to make one piece. There's no way you can piece in a transom and make it as strong as it needs to be.

If you'll go ahead and fabricate your transom wood and swing by the house here (pm me for directions) we'll have that thing installed in an hour or so... a quart of rum will cover the cost of the rivets and the 3M 5200. :wink:
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352852#p352852 said:
LetsGoMteers » 40 minutes ago[/url]"]Jig,

I have decided to follow your steps. But I'm a complete rookie at this. Do you have any suggestions for drilling out the old rivets such as drill bit size ect...

Whatever you do don't drill out the old rivets with a bit larger than the rivets you intend to use for the repair. You could (carefully) grind the heads off the old rivets to see how large a bit you need. It might be easier to start with a small pilot hole and follow it with a bit large enough to remove the old rivet. You need to be careful not to drill the old rivet off center and end up with oval holes - I guess it goes without saying that the new rivet head needs to cover the hole completely.
 
The first thing is, you don't want to completely drill the rivet out. If you try to drill the rivet out completely and you're off center a little bit you end up with a oval shaped hole. You just want to drill or cut the rivet enough so you remove the head on one side. You can use a drill or angle grinder for this.

If you drill:
1. Use a sharp center punch to dimple the center of the rivet head so your drill bit won't slide around.
2. Use a 3/16" bit and start drilling the rivet head slowly, when it looks like you're getting close to being drilled through the rivet head stop drilling and use a sharp cold chisel and a hammer to check the rivet head for looseness by gently trying to cut the head of the rivet with the chisel. If the head doesn't lift off drill a little more and check again.
3. When you get the head of the rivet removed use the center punch to drive the remainder of the rivet out of the hole and presto! You'll have 2 nice round factory holes (one in the brace and the other in the hull) that line up perfectly.

Go slow on your first 2 or 3 holes until you get the feel for removing the heads and then you can speed up.

You can also use a grinding wheel in an angle grinder to cut the head off of the rivet instead and punch the body of the rivet out with the center punch, but again... be careful and go slow until you get the feel for it.

To reinstall your brace, use a couple of 3/16" machine screws and nuts to line the brace up with the holes and hold it. Dip your rivets in some marine epoxy or 3M 5200 and install them in the holes with the setting tool. Remove the 2 nuts and screws and install rivets.


What kind of wood do you plan to use and what kind of glue to bond it together. What do you plan to seal your wood with?
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352871#p352871 said:
LetsGoMteers » 4 minutes ago[/url]"]Also when I punch the rivet and begin to drill should I start on the inside of the boat or outside or does it matter.

Work on the inside of the boat, the brace material is thicker than the hull material and can stand a little more abuse in case you drill just a tad too deep or something... and you won't have to be working overhead. The overhead work will come when you install the rivets. :wink:
 
Thanks again I really appreciate it. What is the standard size rivet for this repair if there is one. My lowes doesn't have the heavy duty tool or rivets in stock so I have to order site to store
 
Those should be 3/16" dia. rivets and the grip range will depend on the brace thickness, have you measured the thickness of the brace material? Is it 1/8" thick?

Be sure to get closed end blind rivets, I don't know how many times I've told people this and they post a picture of the rivets they got and they're the common open end blind rivets. Do you understand the difference between the two, I can post a pic of each if you need me to.
 
Not sure of diameter. I know it's not much. I can post a pic when I get home. I know literally nothing about rivets. I'm posting a pic of the tool I'm gonna order, is it what I need ??
 

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352889#p352889 said:
LetsGoMteers » Today, 11:08[/url]"]Bottom anchor plate

We need to know the thickness of the bottom anchor plate to select the proper length rivet. Looks to be maybe 1/8 or 3/16" thick?

This is where I buy my closed end blind rivets from, they have a great selection:
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html
 

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